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Discussion Starter #1
I have read and study a lot in TL Zone forum about Ram Air intakes. Im not viser yet, thats why im writing. Maby i dont understand technical English as well:) Therfore i Ask: iff i shorten down ram Air intakes soo them are just where the inlet is what happend then? Lets say i have short inlet and i find somthing like a trompeth:) who Will lese Air in to airboks with bigger inlets. One more thing, these flapper valves is har to open Even with yours fingers, do they really function in praksis? I change to irridium spark plugs and i noticec the ignition cables to the front cylinder was in contact with the cylinder head, is this normal. My bike has a Bmc airfilter , it was a bit dark, why? Stupid question? Its only stupid answear:) i m wery sure My bike have a louder engine Sound before i store it last year, compared now. I have changed fairings, have me and My friend fingers puls out somthing?:) i have My gasoline tank removed. I have driven and engine idles Nice, revs qukley up, engine have a Nice ..wroom.. Somthimes i noticec engine stubbles when idles, up and down!? No shooting, exept when i start here up after sleep in 4 months:). Iff not My ears is destroyed it was like i noticec a store sucing Sound in the airbox whil driving. Last year i drive in maby 60 mph it was a litle " stop" in engine, only 1/100 sec.. But i feel it. I have had My Yoshimura cans off. I just Wonder. . ? Thanx fellows
 

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Since no-one else has posted I'll have a go - though there many out there with much more knowledge on these bikes than I'll ever have...

The flapper valve works off a vaccuum (negative pressure) when the engine is running - the higher the rpm, the higher the vaccuum and the more the flapper opens. It will be hard to move when the engine is off.

With the RAMAIR tubes, they are supposedly tuned for length/diameter etc for pressure waves and harmonics etc (in short - they are the way they are for a reason, in theory. Though how well they work in practise is up for debate:))

I am building a naked TLR, and will be doing away with the tubes - I believe I can have it running right with a Power Commander map. I know S's are different - but having short tubes should have a similar effect.

Have you changed the fuel after it was sitting? Do this, and set up the TB balance, and the TPS adjustment (look here for the instructions, workshop manual and more http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/26/74/), and also make sure all the vaccuum lines are connected properly and not leaking.

I'm not quite sure what you mean about your 'ignition cable' (plug lead??) touching the front head...can you post a picture, and maybe one of the airfilter for someone else to comment on.

TL's are loud, and do tick loudly from the engine, due to big pots and big valves etc. I'm not sure if you have ridden it since it was stored - if you are listening to it in your garage, try putting your helmet on and listening again. I know it sounds dumb, but when you are looking for problems, everything can sound louder - and when you put you helmet on it and go for a ride, it sounds the same as it always has. Something to try before stripping your engine anyway:O

I hope this hasn't confused you more, and I'm sorry, I can't really help with the rest of your questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sparkplugs wire

Thanx, ) i mean front sylinder spark plug cord is touching the sylinder. I was thinking the heat Will burn spark plug cables. I was just thinking iff i Get a airbox mod and remove Long Air tubes Will this be like -zero? No less no more? I see how the tubes are made, here Will be a turbolence and cold Air allways tendence to mixing with pre hentet Air. And this is how effektive the engine breath, what about a bigger radiator? I was in mood to say iff the fresh Air aclerate with a bigger volum this Will be ideal, but the airbox do not have the capasity to circulate all this m3 off Air. How much pressure ( vacum ) is recomended in the airbox?. Is this why many bypass their flapper lid and remove Air sensor and reboulds somthing in their vacumlines? Like i see it the best is to have short tubes and a airbox who swallov all this Air:) TL engines make a lot off heat, (air-fuel theory) no Air no flames) but after this first step we have to Get rid the energy. Somone who have tryed a open airbox with only open airfilter? Like i see when i have open My airbox is: here is produced a lot off pressure and heat, ..: soo im thinking isnt there a way to Go and let the engine belive everything is okey, Even with short tubes and a open airfilter just in the end off ram Air inlets? Thanks.
 

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I don't know the number but on the x model gsxr spec is that the "Suzuki ram air direct" only functions at or above 100mph that is when the force is great enough to improve air flow. the flappers should pull vacuum with out to much resistance. connect one of the lines and suck with the other end. if you cant get any flapper movement remove the flapper (allow for engine to warm up thoroughly before revving)

the spark plug wire will rest on the cylinder head. don't worry as long as it is not touching the exhaust you will be fine.

larger radiator is not what you need. try "engine Ice" it is a alternative coolant that has a wetter agent in it. my bike ran at 205*f on average before now it runs at 182*f on average

you can trick the system but performance will go down and fuel mileage will go down. if you eliminate the "ram air" you are introducing more air into the system. if you do not recalibrate the system to add more fuel to balance out the mix you will super heat the piston and likely put a hole in it (progressively) dyno it or map it or both and you will be happy and the bike will be happy.
 

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I wasn't saying eliminate Ram air and trick the system - all I said was with shorter ram-air tubes as he is doin:
Lets say i have short inlet and i find somthing like a trompeth
fueling may be different and a remap may be in order (though I doubt it). Perhaps I should've made this clearer. On the R, even if you eliminate the tubes I would think you'd still get the Ram air effect from the frame bosses into the airbox. I will also be using the rubber boots which join the tubes to the frame...
 

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You'll notice that most ram-air systems aim to keep the inlets as close to the centre of the nose as possible. The reason for this is because that is the point at which the air pressure is greatest and the system has the most meaningful effect. Removing the ducts means the airflow will be drawn from a point further away from the centre line so the ram effect will be lessened.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey. I see. The flapper valves opens when the air pressure in the airbox is wery high. For me its like i have to Get 150mph before this happend . Iff i understand correct the secondary injectors open now? What im trying to do is that this airbox is -free- and is like an open breather all the way in the rpm register. Iff the injectors Get more fuel and engine breath easyer this should be sucsess. Offcorse here is a ECU brain wich controlling from a-å Cant this be trigged to - belive- tatt the throtel bodies is full open all day Long-) injectors are big enough, this i can see in My gasoline tank when i twist My right hand. But i feel engine produce more heat than nessasary and this is not god for effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good day again-). Can some tell what is the numer on the injectors on TLR? What is the width and lengt and obcourse ohm and spray volum. Thanks folks. And the diameter on throtlebodies has Been Nice to know, where the airbox Go into.
 
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