TLZone Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Warning: Long post :rant

Since my TL is exclusively a trackbike, I bought race bodywork on ebay several months ago. Having read several threads on the topic, I concluded Sharkskinz bodywork is the way to go. The ebay seller listed the bodywork as Sharkskinz from his project TLR racebike that he lost interest in.

I ordered a Graves Motorsports fairing bracket and when my bodywork arrived, I mounted it. I noticed the clearance of the lower bodywork at the bottom from the back of the front tire was very close and at the track it rubbed when braking. I removed the fairing lower to continue the rest of the day.

I figured that drilling a hole in the lower fairing so I can use an OEM fastener to hold the fairing back off the front tire using a threaded hole in the frame (under the right footpeg) where the street bellypan bolts on. It was successful in providing clearance for the front tire but the result of this is the lower fairing pulls the upper fairing down a little which causes the upper fairing (where the windscreen is) to contact the fairing brace which in turn makes the upper fairing more upright instead of laid back sleekly like OEM. Additionally, the clearance of the lower fairing from the midpipes where they turn upwards towards the mufflers is, well there is no clearance. I intend to wrap the pipes with exhaust wrap so as to not burn the fairings.

Functionally, there is no problem. However, in reading all the praise of Sharkskinz fitament, I have come to question whether or not my bodywork is in fact Sharkskinz or is there some other problem. Here are my questions:

1) Is there any unique characteristic of Sharkskinz bodywork to be certain that what I have is in fact Sharkskinz?

2) Is it possible/likely my Graves fairing bracket is defective? If the ears were laid back a little bit, this too would eliminate the problem.

3) Am I missing something or doing something wrong to cause this?

Like I said, functionally the bodywork will do, though I haven't track tested it in this configuration yet. I am having software issues so I cannot post pictures of what I think is right and what "will make do" so hopefully I have described things clearly.

Thanks in advance! :cheers
 

·
Super Mod,
Joined
·
3,568 Posts
Aftermarket fairing brackets... in short... suck.

Of the few track build up's that I followed while doing mine the aftermarket fairing stay always needed a tweek or two. I'm not happy with mine at all but it's working so I now just leave it alone.

BTW... Graves braket and Sebimoto bodywork.

Pre-bending...


Odd bends...


Strong weld... er...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,697 Posts
I dread the same issues. But my situation is even worse: I have two front fairing stays, one doesn't fit the TLR guages, maybe it's for a TLS?? and the other doesn't even have any fairing or windshield tabs or bolt-holes, the previous owner just sewed the bodywork onto the tubing with a lot of holes and cable-ties, which looked like crap.

ON the good side, my bodywork is REAL Sharkskins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Just like gixxstar mentioned, on the inside of each body fairing there should be a sharkskinz logo embeded into each of the body pieces, that is if it isn't already painted over.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,697 Posts
So I have real Sharkskinz. But I'm a REAL newbie to this bodywork stuff, and I've never examined stock TLR bodywork mounts much less a good installation of race plastics. For that matter, of all the bikes I've had, this is the first one except my BMW to really have this much bodywork, and I'm more used to jamming plasitc tabs shaped like butt plugs into rubber sphincters to hold it on...

Where is all the front fairing stuff supposed to attach to the bike?
What are ALL the attachment points?

It can't all just hang from the fairing stay where the mirrors used to mount, can it?
This old race bike's bodywork used to just be all held together itself with cable ties, so it was all like one piece, which all would hang from cable ties to the front fairing stay, and that attachment sucked really bad 'cause is could slide some on the round fairing stays (no tabs or holes, just round tube).

What's the right way for race plastics?
For that matter, I've never seen where the stock stuff attaches on a TLR?

And if I got DZUS 1/4-turn flush or D-ring fastners, how many do I need, where do they go, and how many should be on clips and how many rivet on? Where the uppers and lowers meet, can I rivet to the plastic, and do I need a piece of backing aluminum whereever I rivet? What's normally used at the fairing stay windshield bolts for race platics, can I somehow attach the windshield to the race plastics with wellnuts yet have DZUS 1/4-turn fittings hold it to the fairing stay?

AND this is for the street, which means I'm going to want to install some kind of PIAA micro-DE HID projector headlight. And that's too heavy to just bolt to the bodywork, so I'm gong to need to weld some mount into the fairing stay.

I see stock bikes have plastic shrouds around the radiators. Scrap all that with race plastics? Don't those shrouds help hold it all together? Does the stock stuff attach at any of those shrouds to any of the radiator bolts? Does the stock stuff have any bolts or brackets at the frame or engine mounts or perhaps somewhere around the overflow bottle or battery box?
 

·
Super Mod,
Joined
·
3,568 Posts
On my Sebimoto fairings the lower attaches at three points, two on the right and one on the left. With these the lower is put on then the upper.

Just below the black sticker on the frame (stock location).


One in the same place as the right side and also below the swingarm pivot (stock locations).


The upper is then attached to the lower using 4 (most use 6) DZUS fasteners. The cut frame sliders are one reason I'm only using 4.


The air tubes and the design of the upper also support the top part. The L-brackets on the frame closer to the intake could be used for mounting but aren't (on mine). Then as you can see from the pic above the upper is tied to the fairing stay. It sounds minimal but hasn't budged at speeds in excess of 160mph.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info. It appears my bodywork is not Sharkskinz by gixxstars' color description - the inside of my bodywork is gray and I don't have a Sharkskinz sticker cleared inside.

Now I know. Thanks to Burncycle for the tip on fairing brackets. I ended up bending it some and now it the bodywork fits much better on it. I am now satisfied.

This place is great! Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Graves fairing stays do not fit without a bunch of bending and I mean serious bending. Basicly mount the bodywork and then bend the fairing stay to fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,944 Posts
I also had real problems with the Graves fairing stay. They were not much help in the customer service department. My Sharkskinz bodywork fit the TLR pretty well, but the fairing stays are an issue. Graves claims theirs was made for Street bodywork which makes no sense.

Ken
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top