[TLRben]

Hey everyone and happy new year, I have been having the issue that many others seem to be having with the battery either not recharging fully or not enough power being sent to the coils to actually cause a spark. I have taken the stator cover off of my 2001 tlr and done voltmeter tests to see if it is bad and I’m pretty certain it is still good. I got 6-6.2 ohms on all of the leads and no closed circuits between the positive and negative. I also tested the r/r using the same method and I think it is good as well. I did find some corrosion in the electrical plug so I think this was the main cause of my problems. (I will be adding pictures to this post). I started checking the other connections and found corrosion on the yellow connector that goes to the headlights which I think I read may also cause a big voltage drop when starting.
I plan on doing the “charging mod” but was wondering what size wire I should use and if I just leave the other side of the connector floating around under the seat? I am also going to do the “+ mod” but wanted to ask if there is any specific relay I should use. I was planning on using a 30A relay and 20A in-line fuse.
If anyone has any tips for any of these mods or can look at the pictures and make suggestion that would be great! Thanks!

 

[TLRben]

these are the pictures

 

[Six5]

Welcome to the Zone TLRben.

...... I did find some corrosion in the electrical plug so I think this was the main cause of my problems. ....and found corrosion on the yellow connector that goes to the headlights which I think I read may also cause a big voltage drop when starting.
I plan on doing the “charging mod” but was wondering what size wire I should use and if I just leave the other side of the connector floating around under the seat?

Corrosion can be a problem in any circuit, but especially in a circuit drawing higher currents, so it's good you cleaned it up. The typical problem area in the yellow gang connector is the Yellow/wht wire that delivers power to the headlights. It is not uncommon for it to overheat and burn the connector housing.

For the Charging Mod, use 12 AWG wires between the rectifier and the battery. Install a quality 30amp fuse holder in the positive lead. Also, make sure any wire terminals are either soldered or crimped very well.

You can tape up the original, loom-side, rectifier connector or remove it entirely. Once the Charging Mod is done correctly, there is no sense in ever going back to the OEM configuration.

Ideally, the Headlight Relay Mod should be installed along with the Charging Mod. See the explanation as to why at https://www.tlplanet.com/forum/the-...0-definitive-electrical-system-upgrade-thread

A pre-fabbed headlight relay harness can be purchased at EasternBeaver.com.
H4 Kits
Or you can build your own version.

I am also going to do the “+ mod” but wanted to ask if there is any specific relay I should use. I was planning on using a 30A relay and 20A in-line fuse.
....

A sealed 20A relay will be sufficient for the "+" Mod. If you notice the wiring diagram for the OEM configuration, the entire ignition system (including the coils) is fused at 15 amps (fuse #3). A relay like the Panasonic model used for the fuel pump relay works nicely.

Have a look at post #2 in the thread linked below. It provides a little background information you may find useful.
Electrical concerns...modifications that could of been...

Let us know how the mods go please.

 

[Rickysnicker]

Also, for testing your electrical charging system, I've found this is also very helpful, https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073

 

[TLRben]

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help. I picked up most of what I needed today but could not find a relay so I ordered one on Amazon. I will get started on it tonight and give an update when I have it all put together. Thanks again👍

 

[Loki-TLR]

Can this mod be done without speeding up startup?