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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guys,
Well after many years I've purchased another TL1000S custom from eBay.
Bike is a 1998 TL1000S

Previous owner had bypassed all kickstand and clutch kill switch.

Bike was running well in workshop.
Then one morning I fired it up and it was popping and running like a dog at idle, when I blipped the throttle the bike died.
FI light lit up and oil can check light.
In dealer mode I get no codes and bike is acting like a kill switch is on.
I pulled sparkplug and tested against bikes engine, no spark.
When I switch handlebar on/off switch, I can hear the fuel pump buzzing then stopping after priming.
Engine cranks but no spark.

I have opened up tilt sensor but it seems ok, ( not really sure how to test or bypass )

But it really feels like the bike has turned on a kill switch somewhere.
I found a black with brown stripe wire snapped off ECU smaller plug of the two ,re wired it up but made no difference.

Any suggestions.
Update:
I tested my tilt sensor and it has continuity no matter what position the ring is in.
Does this mean my tilt sensor is faulty and causing the kill switch?
 

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Welcome to the forum Chimeran.

Here are some things to check for a no-spark scenario according to the manual.

TLR 8-11_no spark causes by Tony Six5, on Flickr

Start with the simple things first.

Be sure to verify that the coils are getting 12 volts when the key is on, at the orange/white wire.
It's also possible that this TL has the "plus mod" installed and the relay itself or a terminal connection has failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the forum Chimeran.

Here are some things to check for a no-spark scenario according to the manual.

TLR 8-11_no spark causes by Tony Six5, on Flickr

Start with the simple things first.

Be sure to verify that the coils are getting 12 volts when the key is on, at the orange/white wire.
It's also possible that this TL has the "plus mod" installed and the relay itself or a terminal connection has failed.
Thanks for the info.
Even when no error codes are present?
Most of those would throw error codes?
 

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....
Most of those would throw error codes?
On the surface, one might think that to be the case.

However....
A weak coil will not generate an error code.
An intermittent crank sensor is notorious for NOT generating a code. A bad spark plug will not generate a code.
A poor connection from the plug to the cap, or from the HT wire to the cap will not generate a code.
A bad ECM will likely not generate a code - because it's not working right. (Very likely not the problem)
"Open circuit wire connections" could be anywhere, so a close look at the ignition circuit with a meter may be in order.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello Six5,
I spend today working through the bikes wires.
Entering dealer mode and cranking the bike over flashed up C12 code ( crank position sensor fault )
This would explain the poor running then total fail of the spark/coil system?
I have continuity from the ECU to the first plug on both blue and green wires, so no breaks there.

I have removed the stator cover and am attempting to remove the sensor.... 7mm bolts wtf?
So now need to get a 7mm socket.

Have you come across a sensor failing?
I can't see any visible damage, no metal filings on magnet.
Is there a way to test the sensor?
Am hoping it's just broken wire further along once I can reach the sensor wire contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update.
Fixed it.
Two things.
Sensor had poor connection further down, cut out the bad wire and reconnected.
Spark test gave spark but then stopped again shortly after.
Continuity tester on frame and engine earthing showed poor results.
Battery to engine earth was badly corroded and loose.
Removed bolt, cleaned engine surface and terminal added copper washers both sides.
Ran another frame to battery earth line.
Bikes running fine.
 

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Update.
Fixed it.
Two things.
Sensor had poor connection further down, cut out the bad wire and reconnected.
Spark test gave spark but then stopped again shortly after.
Continuity tester on frame and engine earthing showed poor results.
Battery to engine earth was badly corroded and loose.
Removed bolt, cleaned engine surface and terminal added copper washers both sides.
Ran another frame to battery earth line.
Bikes running fine.
Heck yeah! You can up the grounding a bit more. There is a single spade running off the main Earth. It goes into a huge junction. I would run your secondary ground to THAT location instead. And that spade I mentioned, delete it and solder and heatshrink that spot. You can see the area circled below.

 

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Update.
Fixed it.
Two things.
[Crank] Sensor had poor connection further down, cut out the bad wire and reconnected.
Spark test gave spark but then stopped again shortly after.
Continuity tester on frame and engine earthing showed poor results.
Battery to engine earth was badly corroded and loose.
Removed bolt, cleaned engine surface and terminal added copper washers both sides.
Ran another frame to battery earth line.
Bikes running fine.
Good work Chimeran!
You persisted and found a couple of not so common failures. :thumbup


+1 on rxf610's comment regarding the main loom ground. Getting rid of that spade connector will save you from a headache down the road.
 

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Well done. Now you need to undo the clutch switch bypass. It does more than it appears.
 

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Spent weeks tracing starter fault on my 98 TLR, followed advice in factory manual, traced out and tested all circuits and switches, all were fine. So I decided to replace the starter relay, then the rectifier, then removed cleaned and rebuilt starter motor, still had same issue, then when screwing around with clutch lever one day found the switch was contacting intermittently. Removed and reinstalled it, fixed... sigh...

Rcent picture attached of my TLR, bought it new in 98, Yoshi system includes headers for that extra HP, Power Commander which was set up by THE Mat Mladin. :) IMG_1480.jpg
 

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Spent weeks tracing starter fault on my 98 TLR, ...... So I decided to replace the starter relay, then the rectifier, then removed cleaned and rebuilt starter motor, still had same issue, .....
If you had posted the symptoms, maybe we could have helped you sort it before you got that far. :)

Now it's good for another 20 years. :thumbup
 
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