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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I started a thread a while back under a different topic. It has since morphed into a teardown on a (running, sort of) "KB1140" engine. I'm going to post the updates under a new thread with a relevant name.

So here goes-

Short story, like other guys I got fleeced by KB. In my case I sent him an R engine and he "completely" rebuilt it with his 1140 kit. Which actually calculates out to 1122, if you do the math... 102.5 x 68

I paid for the full 1140 bore/stroke conversion kit w/ pistons, rods, crank work
clutch weld mod
new oil pump, manual cam chain adjusters
oversize valves and porting

It's been a while and paperwork is long gone, I can't remember what if anything else. I did not pay for every possible option. And it seems I never got some of the options I DID pay for.


I retained the TLS intakes, Throttle bodies and ECU. Has a full RS-3 exhaust system and large 15 liter airbox.
Engine started and ran but billowed oil smoke, and I didn't try to ride it; parked it for years. After talking with forum members here, I pulled the engine and handed it off to a professional builder to do a teardown and check EVERYTHING. He has just started going through it, and I'll post the results here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
first update from shop

Got an update from the shop today. crazy deal.
I had originally ordered oversize valves, head porting, big bore and +2mm crank (68mm stroke), among other things.

What he found was completely stock TLR heads, 102.5 bore, and a 72mm stroke

I have heard that 72mm via rewelding is asking for a crank failure.

How is this even possible with no base spacer or such? it started and ran, and seemingly nothing inside was bashing into anything else.

The math on CR:
Stock CR is listed at 11.7 : 1

with 98 x 66 bore and stroke, using .030” gasket (5.5cc) and assuming 41cc of head + valve relief volume, total trapped volume is 46.5 cc

(498 + 46.5) /46.5 = 11.71

bumping that to 102.5 x 72 , .030 gasket (6.2cc) and using same chamber + valve relief volume (47.2 cc total trapped volume) gives…
13.6:1 Aieeeeee

102.5 x 68 with this head would be
12.89:1

If I used just the big bore jugs on top of a stock crank, we’d have
102.5 x 66 = 1090cc
12.54: 1 compression ratio with 47.2 cc trapped volume
As in, suppose the crank turns out to be suspect, we could rebuild it using a stock crankshaft…?

What sort of CR can I use/ survive with, with 93 octane? I'm thinking I should install a stock crank and run away with 1090cc and reliable OEM crankshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
late model kit

My engine was assembled with no base spacers. from KB's ad in 2015 on Ebay UK >>NEW DESIGN ON PISTONS ELIMINATE THEE NEED FOR SPACER PLATES AND LONGER CAM CHAINS, RESULTING IN SIMPLIFIED ENGINE ASSEMBLY...

The crankshaft is magnafluxed and checked for damage, ground,submerged welded,re-ground to spec,chamfered,nitride coated(hardened) polished,balanced and oil grooves are cut in the mian bearing surface to provide better oil retention and flow to the rod journals. We no longer groove the rod journals as shown in the photo.
<<

I seem to have wound up with one of the late version kits in 1188cc. There are no base spacers, and it has clearance internally. My mechanic is concerned about the amount of meat left in the piston crown, but says the work on the piston is done well. Trying to decide whether the pistons and crank are going to have durability.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Duh, obviously I couldn't use a stock crank with nonstandard piston pin height. So it's all kit parts, or nothing, I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well let's see. I had ordered the small stroker crank, but for some mysterious reason he installed the longer stroke crank, and a bad one at that. Probably junk that was returned from someone else, figuring I wouldn't see it for a long time. The welded-up material on the journal was ground-through in one spot, exposing the base metal underneath, so the crank is not usable without repair.

The pistons are OK, new items, but not usable in any other application, the rods are new carillos, but the bottom end of the engine had not even been cleaned out, showing decade + of grit and black sludge from old age and use. No head work was done whatsoever. Cams are web cams, no adjustable sprockets. Cam tensioners were installed improperly, front to back, and instead of removing and reinstalling them he cut welded-in a chunk of turnbuckle to extend the too-short adjuster. Sloppily, might i add.

So with the crank not usable and pistons with custom pin height for the long stroke, the package is unusable, unless someone wanted to repair the crank and go from there. Also the CR would be sky-high as no machining was done to the pistons or combustion chambers. I basically have a set of carillo rods and large-bore barrels (with no pistons available unless I hav them made) for my $5000 spent. I put the stock engine back in my TL and that's where this story ends, I guess. He kept the usable TLR crank I had sent, as well as the std barrels, so I don't have enough to assemble the R engine and use it without buying more parts. So there you go!
 
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****!

you probably read my ordeal of trying to assemble a motor with his old kit.

the pistons are Arias and very good quality.

bummer on the rest of the stuff.

he's proven himself to be a right thief

So basically you have a very expensive set of carillo rods!

I'd be interested in the pistons and barrells if you ever decide to sell them

I have some new +2 JE with custom coatings I'd part swap too

Cant believe this guy got away with this crap for so long.
 

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sorry scanran...sorry to bring up old wounds...wow....so what you going to do now?..ud want to go round and burn his shop down...

sorry mate, hope some shape or form, you get something back for your hard earned cash...something...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
1) EXCELLENT AVATAR
2) Arias says they can make me 4 pistons to fit these big bore barrels, for $700. So if I do that I just need an R crank and I could build up a 1089 cc engine for my baby. I have the carillo rods, cases, stock heads and web cams. Definitely not my smartest build-up project.
3) We were like a bunch of lonely housewives, jumping at the vacuum cleaner salesman who showed up with promises of world beating big-cc TL engines. I guess a common enough story, taking a leap of faith on the flim flam man. I should have bought 5 spare cranks for my RS250R instead, but what can you do.
 

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I definitely feel your pain as I'm going through a similar situation with my 2001 Nissan Frontier at the moment. Paid $3500 for a reman swap and got an "overhaul" instead. First time they dropped it off I tried to drive it back to work and it broke down within the first ten miles. Cost $300 to have it towed back to my garage. That weekend I went over my newly "overhauled" engine. Other than a cheap aftermarket distributor, not a damn thing had been done to it. Same Pistons, rods, rod bearings, belts, etc.. In fact, the damn thing still had the original valve and intake gaskets that I put on prior to sending it to the shop (I always initial new parts I install out of habit). Long story short, I called for a refund, but he asked for the chance to make it right first, which I agreed to. He told me it was done and would be dropped off today, so we'll see. After learning that I'm not mechanically retarded, I'm hoping I scared him into installing a new factory motor, but I'm not holding my breath.


Most likely I'll just end up similarly eating the cost of this failed endeavor like you.
 
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