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Discussion Starter #1
Well i dumped the oil tonight, and lo and behold when i shine a torch on it, it comes up with a sheen like really fine brass metallic paint, like someone dumped a little baggie of brass powder in my oil... looks cool, but i know damn well it aint!:banghead

The particles are so fine (like talc powder) i cant really single one out, and there was NO noticeable fuzz on the magnetic sump plug, so that has to be a good thing right??

I'm guessing now that the mains and crank should be fine then, the small end bearings from what i can gather is(was) brass, what about big end bearings? are the shells brass too?

I'll find out i guess when i tear it apart.. It will need a real good flush out either way, should the oil pump have to be replaced?, anything else (besides gaskets of course) that should be seriously inspected, or replaced as a rule of thumb in a rebuild:O ? (without splitting cases, not doing that if i dont have to!)
 

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all shavings, no matter how small will destroy all the internals in your engine. jugs, bearings, and anything else that moves!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
even from brass? so i can forget rebuilding unless i replace EVERYTHING internally then?:eek
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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I'm betting it'll be a bearing gone. Lack of ferros metal doesn't mean the crank isn't scored either. :( But, have you ever insected the oil closely on previous changes? :dowhat

Little end failures are rare, and I can't ever remember hearing of a TL one, but countless of big end failures. Your mains are probably ok, but replace them anyway if you're doing the big ends.
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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Some of that crud might be clutch material too. The filter only filters out so many micron's.

I'm betting if you inspected past oil changes closely you would have found crud in it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Au contraire Steve, I have the last change (2000km ago) still in a bucket, nothing but nice dark oil in it, no swarf, shavings, crud or aything.. The filter i used this time is a different brand from what i normally use, maybe collapsed or shat itself, i'll go check it with a hacksaw tomorrow.
On another note the one and only time my clutch has slipped was on the highway 3 weeks ago at 5000rpm and half throttle, i pumped the clutch a couple times and it never slipped again, though i wonder if it is related somehow..
Can i replace mains without splitting cases?
 

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Pygmy looking for a new name
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Did you stir up that old oil before you inspected it? Might have settled to the bottom since your last change. :O
 

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Discussion Starter #8
gixxerjasen said:
Did you stir up that old oil before you inspected it? Might have settled to the bottom since your last change. :O
first scraped a spoon across the bottom of the bucket (been sitting for 8 weeks), then stirred it up, then strained a little through an old white t-shirt. nary a sign of antyhing nasty either... puzzling.... whatever caused it has happened very recently i think..
 

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Ok, I figured you were smart enough to do that but on the off chance you just walked over and looked into the bucket I figured I'd ask.

I have nothing else helpful to add here...sorry.
 

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I ever thought if a bigend was gone then you would hear that (knock).
Perhaps your clutch still slips a bit and you didn't remark it? Thus it's clutch wear that you have in the oil??

Greetings
Rufer
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Brass coloured particles in your oil is 99% Big End Failure

The fact it hasn't started knocking yet means you've been very lucky and it hasn't locked up on you.

You may find that the crank has survived as it hasn't seized and locked up.

It's difficult to check the big ends without stripping the motor I'm affraid, even seized big ends free off enough when cooled down to allow them to rotate.

Check the filter gauze on the oil pickup behind the main clutch cover for more evidence of brass shell material.
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah it knocks alright, Sounds like death! (thanks Steve). When it happened I was hard on the gas at peak torque out of a corner, popped and farted (felt like it hesitated) a couple times, then the 'death clock' started ticking (well, knocking anyway), i pulled the clutch in and hit the kill switch after a few seconds, and got a trailer ride home. I think i'm kinda lucky in a way, that it didn't seize and spit me into the armco.
 

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mine was'nt knocking but when i got a call it was f*#^en locked up they sware it did'nt knock before hand - no warning at all :rant :banghead sorry im still pissed off with them. my ass is still sore.

mine locked up but here's an idea on a shopping list (a few extra jobs on this)


BIGGUNS:


 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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I have a good condition spare S crank and plenty of rods to choose from.

Also have a pair of brand new unstamped TLS crank cases (later stronger gearbox bearing type) :devious
 

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Wow Veetwo, that's $2843 :eek in real, not funny money. :D

Considering what I'd paid for my TLR, I'd probably have had mine in the part out bin for that much cash.
 

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gixxerjasen said:
Wow Veetwo, that's $2843 :eek in real, not funny money. :D

Considering what I'd paid for my TLR, I'd probably have had mine in the part out bin for that much cash.

yeh & i only had it around 6 mths tops (second hand-im the second owner) & still under finance through them.
that bill would had paid for my body work from germany & paint :banghead
 

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veetwo tls said:
yeh & i only had it around 6 mths tops (second hand-im the second owner) & still under finance through them.
:banghead
 

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Discussion Starter #19
HOLY CRAPCAKES! I'm really dreading taking my motor apart now.. I don't want to know what i'll find.:bawling
Fische-man, S cranks are the same as R cranks arent they?
 
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TL cranks are pain in the ass. I found out that some moto guzzi cranks are pretty cheap(relatively), new ones are like 500euros.

of course that doesn't help if you ain't got moto guzzi!
 
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