TLZone Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, my tlr has started doing something weird. I was out on a ride Sunday and did 5 hours absolutely fine, then all of a sudden I lost throttle and the dash came up with “check” then it all went dead. No dash at all, like the battery was off. Tried my mates battery off his bike and all was sweet, measured the voltage and it was 13.3v running and it got me home. Next day I checked the voltage on my battery expecting it to be flat and it had 12.2v in it, fitted it and it ran straight away! Bit weird right?! Anyway rode it today and it ran fine for 15 minutes and then randomly cuts all power, like I turn the key off while I’m riding, dash turns off and the engine dies for a second then all comes back on again. Any ideas?? Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
Same symptoms on my S where I could hear arcing in the front harness with immediate cutoff of all power. Traced it to the large white connector where the orange/white wire had gotten hot and partially melted the surrounding plastic, which allowed it to back out some. Re-seating the o/w socket and pin fixed it, but I have a spare wiring harness that will sacrifice it's connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Same symptoms on my S where I could hear arcing in the front harness with immediate cutoff of all power. Traced it to the large white connector where the orange/white wire had gotten hot and partially melted the surrounding plastic, which allowed it to back out some. Re-seating the o/w socket and pin fixed it, but I have a spare wiring harness that will sacrifice it's connector.
The first thing I checked on the side of the road was the cable and plug from the ignition switch as it’s easy to get to and it all looked ok tbf.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
I agree, it's got to be either the white or yellow connectors up front. I slide it could also the dash connector, but that's less likely.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,873 Posts
iffy connections in the 4 way plug into the starter solenoid under the seat of the TLS can produce that effect as well. I know, you have a TLR.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,797 Posts
iffy connections in the 4 way plug into the starter solenoid under the seat of the TLS can produce that effect as well. I know, you have a TLR.
Still applies for the R... Cept the plug is off the solenoid on the left hand side battery area.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
I had a similar problem, found a bad connection under the seat. Start up the bike with all covers removed and then wiggle everything until the bike cuts out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,234 Posts
iffy connections in the 4 way plug into the starter solenoid under the seat of the TLS can produce that effect as well. I know, you have a TLR.
Still applies for the R... Cept the plug is off the solenoid on the left hand side battery area.

:stupid:stupid:stupid

Given your symptoms Leadfoot, the starter relay connector would be the first thing I suspect. It is a common weak point in the TL loom, and especially so on a TL without BOTH the Charging Mod and the Headlight Relay Mod.

Those little terminals in the SR connector are inadequate for the load they need to handle, IMO. When they are shiny and new, their performance is OK, but as they age (all the OEM units out there are nearly 20 years old now), their reliability goes downhill unpredictably. :banghead
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I think it’s the battery? Something doesn’t add up though. So I’ve checked all the connectors and the starter relay and it’s all good, it does have the charging mod done by the way.

Wouldn’t start this morning so I put a volt meter on the battery and it says 12.2v but no dash at all with the key on. Wiggled all the wires around the battery and nothing.

Took the battery cables off, fitted a spare battery and it fired straight up, doesn’t work with the original battery even though it has enough voltage in it.

Kinda weird but I hope that’s the reason. Never seen a battery do that before though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
iffy connections in the 4 way plug into the starter solenoid under the seat of the TLS can produce that effect as well. I know, you have a TLR.
Still applies for the R... Cept the plug is off the solenoid on the left hand side battery area.



<img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/withstupid.gif" border="0" alt="" title="I'm with stupid" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/withstupid.gif" border="0" alt="" title="I'm with stupid" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/withstupid.gif" border="0" alt="" title="I'm with stupid" class="inlineimg" />

Given your symptoms Leadfoot, the starter relay connector would be the first thing I suspect. It is a common weak point in the TL loom, and especially so on a TL without BOTH the Charging Mod and the Headlight Relay Mod.

Those little terminals in the SR connector are inadequate for the load they need to handle, IMO. When they are shiny and new, their performance is OK, but as they age (all the OEM units out there are nearly 20 years old now), their reliability goes downhill unpredictably. <img src="http://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif" border="0" alt="" title="banghead" class="inlineimg" />
Being as the connector is likely to fail at some point, what’s the fix? New relay and plug? Or solder the wires onto the relay?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,766 Posts
The fix is the Charging Mod, so if it's already been done (properly) then that's not your problem. And I highly doubt this has anything to do with your old battery. The connections maybe, but not the battery itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,797 Posts
New relay and plug? Or solder the wires onto the relay?
No, maybe (but can't hurt) Brainless on the Planet makes much stouter replacements, no. The relay itself is quite robust. They fail, but mine is one of the oldest possible (1/97 still kicking!)

Being as the connector is likely to fail at some point, what’s the fix?
Like Six said,

BOTH the Charging Mod and the Headlight Relay Mod.

Those pull basically all current out of that plug, thus saving it.

You can inspect it in like 5 seconds. TLR its mounted to the battery, look at Josh's picture. Pull the plug and inspect.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,873 Posts
in my case, one of the connectors inside the plug part had broken in two so when the male part was pushed in it would connect most of the time and occasionally disconnect.
I wanted to retain the ability to take the plug apart so I used another plug off a sacrificial loom I have.
I cut off the replacement plug and about 4 inches of cables, cut off the old plug as near to the ends of the wire as I could and soldered the two together.
The bonus being that connection is now twice as long making it easier to route safely.

You could use individual connectors but they are very close to each other and they would need to be fully insulated right to the ends of the connectors.
Also as that connection has one of the very few waterproof connectors you would have to find a way, with individual connectors, to make it waterproof.

Or maybe Eastern Beaver could supply a complete replacement female socket...................
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
So yeah it’s the battery 😝 I’ve tested the voltage on the bench throughout today, voltage would sometimes be 10v and on the next test 12v. It’s a year old gel battery and I can only imagine something is breaking down inside so it shows voltage but won’t pass a load.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top