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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got mine & finally got it in ... worth the money & worth the wait! Noticable difference before & after. Crisper, smoother, revs rise faster & more oomf all round :)
For those of us who notice a difference with or without a TRE - I'd liken it to that but more so :)

Here's a pic of the underside - that red area is the filter. So compared to a stock filter - and I'd guess K&N & BNC too - the flowable area is larger; like, base plate area less 1cm around the sides!!! Also, the whole filter is 'thinner' ... the stock filter is taller so I guess there's a tiny bit more volume in the airbox now :)

Well worth the money & hassle ... get one now!

 

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Can you order them anywhere in the states? and how much do they cost. I want one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cost me 49.50GBP + shipping ... I think kneedraggers.com has them, but there are plenty of places to order. They're not as cheap as K&N etc ... but there's a very good reason for that :D
 

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kneedraggers.com does not have them. I went the the official pipercross websight and there is only one US distributor.
USA
SB Imports Ltd
229 Messer Street
Laconia
NH 03246
Tel: 1 603 2797956
[email protected]

I didnt call them for a price but unless someone else knows of another place, this seems to be the only place to order them.
 

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I have heard (but dont know) that they dont filter all that well compared to paper type filters...even k&n....but who cares apparently they do flow more air and are cleanable....Seeing as most bike engines dont usually do that many miles I dont suppose the filtration ability matters too much as long as the sand and grit stays out. I cant think of any bike engine thats failed from bore wear caused by poor filtration..most overheat and melt something or throw rods spin bearing etc...I beleive they are used alot on race engines of all sorts but they get rebuilt relatively frequently..I suppose there is a thread on here already about similar stuff...

F.Y.I. If my tlr hadnt come already fitted with a k&n I would buy a Piper-X...
 

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When you have more surface the air travels thru more slowly and that helps it still filter decently. The critical area under the filter (the volume of the chamber the throttlebodies "see" before the resistance of the filter) is less, and that's not good. But the shape and idea seem like a Joe-V done one-better.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My word, UKbiker - on the first ride, I though of the thread you posted when you got one & though "Why the hell did I wait so long?" :)
Hey - how often do you clean & re-oil yours?

I've heard that oiled filters flow AND filter better than paper ones but are higher maintenance ... from what I've read, the OEM ones filter the best but flow the worst - the more flow from paper the worse filtering. I mean, surely on a moto-x bike etc where there's dirt & crap flying around that filtering is most important - but most use an oiled foam filter :O

Also - the airbox is a plenum chamber (apparently :D ) so surely it's all pressurized, and being able to move air from above the filter to below quicker is well ... better? :)
 

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I clean and oil mine about every 1500 miles or so. Its never been that dirty it needed cleaning, but i do it anyway.

Im not sure how the science of airboxes work ... pressure pulses etc etc .. All I know is the Pipercross looks better, weighs less (After plastics are removed), make the bike sound better and increases HP over the K&N I had. All in all 110% happy :thumbup

:hail TLR's
 

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Kamikuza said:
My word, UKbiker - on the first ride, I though of the thread you posted when you got one & though "Why the hell did I wait so long?" :)
Hey - how often do you clean & re-oil yours?

I've heard that oiled filters flow AND filter better than paper ones but are higher maintenance ... from what I've read, the OEM ones filter the best but flow the worst - the more flow from paper the worse filtering. I mean, surely on a moto-x bike etc where there's dirt & crap flying around that filtering is most important - but most use an oiled foam filter :O

Also - the airbox is a plenum chamber (apparently :D ) so surely it's all pressurized, and being able to move air from above the filter to below quicker is well ... better? :)
Off-road uses foam 'cause it's reusable and salvageable, not 'cause it filters well. Sometimes an off-road vehicle may need to have its filter cleaned a couple of times a day. Imagine paying for a stock Zuzuki paper filter twice a day.

Paper filters can be made to guarantee they don't pass particles above a certain size.
Flow really depends on the quality of the paper filter.
Some have specific-sized holes made thru the paper, not just the weave of the paper fibers. In that case, it's a matter of how may holes.

Maybe I should take back what I said about the air moving slower thru more filter area and filtering well. That's true for a swimming-pool diatamacious earth or sand media filter. For oiled foam or gauze, they depend upon air diverting easier than heavier dirt which smacks into sticky fibers. Oiled gauze and foam don't depend upon the size of the passages to work, they're not an aboslute screen. But they need a certain air velocity to work. Higher airflow rate means the heavy dirt gets enough speed to spin out the outside of the turns thru the diversions and crash. It also means the faster air carries lighter dirt along with it. I guess the more dangerous dirt it probalby the heavier dirt.

In theory you should be able to make an absolute-mesh single screen like paper more efficient than an oiled gauze or foam. In reality they don't seem to make the single absolute mesh all that well.

Ever take apart an old-fashioned oil-bath air cleaner, like on an old car or tractor? They make the airstream take a sharp bend right at the surface of the pool of oil, so the dirt slies out and sticks in the oil. They create horrible intakes (you really don't want any sharp bends) and only work well over a narrow flow band. They're great for stationary engines that only run at one speed, but not so good for something that idles at very little flow then goes WFO to gulp 20 times more air. In the same way oiled foam and oiled gauze also work by diverting the air, they work by ruining the flow. All that crap about strightening the flow is pure bull. I'm not so sure the K&N demo with the fan and the ball works so well at true high-velocity flow-bench flow rates instead of using a teensie computer fan. I'm not so sure they filter well at low flow rates.

Then again, my BSA only had a screen on a velicity stack...after I put the screen on...
 

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I have one in my S for about 20.000 km now. Maintenance is a bit heavy, i am very nitpicking on air filters. Clean, rinse, clean sometimes in a second circle.. Then let it dry, help with kitchen paper and re oil it. I massage the oil in the foam, this allone can take easy half an hour. On the outer side there is a metal net on the Tl S filter, so it is relatively hard to put oil on the outer foam shell. Now Pipercross has launched a new foam, the red one as seen above, a i ordered me a new one from England. Arrived..

I prefer foam, because i think they filter better than K&N. AND: The Pipercross are even finer in the pores than for example the No Toil or Dt 1 filters. The older Pipercross foam is nearly as fine as the original Yamaha Rd 350 Ypvs foam filter. Not the same, but nearly.. When you let dirt go through on a stroker the crank bearings will not last long.

I like the Pipercross
 

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had my pipercross in for around 5 years now bought it back in 2000 i clean it every and re oil it every 2k i soaked it in a bucket of water last time i did itover nite when i drained the water the bucket was full of sand and dirt at the bottom so filtration works very well :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
cyclecamper said:
Then again, my BSA only had a screen on a velicity stack...after I put the screen on...
:laugh

So basically, if you keep them clean they'll take care of the job real nice ;)
 

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So you guys drain and remove your tanks every 2 months to clean your air filter?
 

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I clean mine (foam uni) every ~10-20k miles or once or twice year. It was pretty dirty on the outside, but inside and air box was totally clean. No need to drain the tank, at least on a TLS - I just lift the tank at the front, take the filter cover off, slide the dirty filter out and a slip a clean, oiled one in. The I clean and oil the dirty filter so its ready to go the next time around:)
 

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Er... no need to drain and remove the tank to change the filter and that goes for both the TLS and TLR.

What’s with the digging up of old threads lately? :confused
 

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Dont use the number listed above, its a poor little old lady that answers and obviously has no clue.

Hell, don't call any of the US distributors if thats where you are. None of the 3 are willing to even locate a filter for you, let alone sell you one.
 

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They are hard to come by :banghead

Anyone have a lead for purchase?
I have a shipping in Glasgow (for one or two more months) if that 'll help :O
 

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I did find this though:

:devious



Not exactly the filter in question but a cool Pipercross pic nonetheless :drool
 
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