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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I had a incident with the TL tonight...

What can I do about that??

Auto part Engine Vehicle Wheel Machine
 

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hear the one about the brass monkey looking for a welder?

I think you need one too! ....

seriously, find an ally welder locally..
 

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But always remove the ECU and unplug the speedo/tach before you weld on the bike! Might unplug the regulator/rectifier and TRE too.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong but that's just a broken rear brake pedal isn't it? Quick fix while you order a new one: drill a hole in the end and stick a bolt through it. It will be enough for your boot to get purchase while you wait for Fedex.

Pedals are $30 on ebay and unless you've got a friend in the business the ally welding will probably cost more than that.

Or you could feed the monster...


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodcraft-Rearsets-Complete-Kit-Silver-Suzuki-TL1000R-/290874608941
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Correct me if I'm wrong but that's just a broken rear brake pedal isn't it? Quick fix while you order a new one: drill a hole in the end and stick a bolt through it. It will be enough for your boot to get purchase while you wait for Fedex.

Pedals are $30 on ebay and unless you've got a friend in the business the ally welding will probably cost more than that.

Or you could feed the monster...


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodcraft-Rearsets-Complete-Kit-Silver-Suzuki-TL1000R-/290874608941

Sorry for the Poor picture, but the mounting on the frame is broken, it not just the peg.

Other question: Can it be welding in place?? Do I need to dissemble the bike to get more access??
 

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yes it can be done in situ. the third bolt holding could be a bonus in that it helps to hold and line-up. - could be a bugger if bent out of alinement....
get as much out of the way as you need to - unbolt peg, brake master etc - just to clear the area - and as CC says - disconnect battery, ecu, clocks, any electronics etc....
 

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Apologies. Now I've got my glasses on I see what you mean.

As Ted says, the more access you've got the better the weld will end up. Getting at both sides of the broken tabs is going to be pig.
Probably best to find someone who can do the work and get their opinion.
 

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It would be nice if you had the engine out, but I think it could be welded from just one side with the engine in. Your welder should know what's best for his equipment, but generally you have to grind a deep V-groove in aluminum because it fills more than it penetrates because the base metals conduct the heat away so quickly. And when you do just one side if you don't groove deep then as it cools it shrinks and could pull on the one welded side, making the tab crooked.

He will also appreciate if the gas tank is empty so he can lay the bike all the way over on its side so he doesn't have to do a vertical weld. It's going to be a hassle if he has to operate a TIG foot pedal at the same time; he might really like it laying on its side on a raised pallet so that he can sit next to it on a chair and operate the foot pedal, or he might just shoot aluminum wire with out a foot pedal.

You might help the welder by getting a spare stock rearset bracket on ebay, and cutting away near the new welds for access, making it into a fixture to bolt on and hold everything aligned. Or you might drill a piece of steel and make a stronger alignment fixture to hold everything in place. But in the end, it could still go crooked as it cools so having a guy experienced with aluminum is important, not a TIG guy who's always doing stainless restaurant kitchen stuff.

He might use TIG for careful precision, or he might shoot aluminum wire for a really massive weld that you can shape with an abrasive disc later to still mount your rearset plate.

In the US it would probably cost me about $40 to $70 depending on the amount of prep he had to do.
 

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disconnect battery, ecu, clocks, any electronics etc....
You might even unplug a constant-speed turn indicator flasher or if you have any fancy rear light integrator or UFO. You might even unplug your coils if you really want to be safe.

If he uses multiple local ground clamps around the weld area it's safer, but they never do. Welding aluminum uses much higher current than steel, and high-frequency too. That means the frame can become a huge transformer to any wires near it and generate considerable current in the wires. Motorcycle and automotive stuff is somewhat "hardened" to withstand the inductive flyback from the coils, but welding can be a lot more.
 
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