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777 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
TLR cable clutch lever conversion

TLS Parts needed:

Clutch lever perch
Clutch lever
Cable adjuster nut
Worm drive
Clutch push rod (or trim the TLR push rod about 1/4")
Return spring for actuator

Do this with the bike on its sidestand. This allows you to remove the push rod without oil spilling out.

Its pretty straght forward:
-Remove the front sprocket cover (I believe 3 8mm bolts)
-Remove left bar end, grip, switch assembly grom the left clip-on
-Remove the hydro unit (lever, master cylinder, hydrolic line, piston, push rod). You will have to disconnect the hydrolic line either at the m/c or the piston in order to thread te hydrolic line out from underneath the frame. Keep the two allen bolts from the clutch piston as well as the spacer for the left bolt (silver colored cylindrical object that keeps the clutch piston from getting misaligned when tightening the left bolt)
-Pull out the push rod (the shaft behind the clutch piston) from the oil seal)
-Thread the cable worm drive the same way the hydrolic line went (the threaded side with two nuts goes on the bottom)
-Slide the Clutch lever perch onto the clip-on. Adjuster nut should be screwed onto perch.
-Thread the cable into the adjuster nut, perch and lever
-Replace switch assembly, grip, and bar end
-Now Place the TLS clutch push rod into the clutch oil seal
-Bolt the actuator on using the spacer for the left bolt using bolts from the Clutch piston
-Adjust the actuator so that the push rod is just touching the pressure plate on the other side by loosening the nut at the end and using the screw
-Now install the return spring
-The front sprocket cover will have to be modded so the cable can go through it. Then replace it.

Any questions???

149 Posts
09443-08047 Spring (1)
23200-15500 Clutch Screw (1)
57500-33E20 Clutch Lever (1)
58200-02F00 Clutch Cable (1)
11360-02OO Sproket Cover (1)

When buying these parts for the conversion, please double check the numbers, as I got them from a friend and have yet to order my setup.
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