[TLstreak]

Ok heres the deal, I ****ed up and forgot to locktite the cam bolt in (10mm allen head holding the sprocket for the chain) and it came out. I snapped a cam and have replacements coming. No big deal right.......well sorta right. I have no apparent damage and got the motor turned off QUICK and dont think there is going to be damage past what I see now................except on the sprocket for the chain is a washer/spacer between the sprocket and the bolt. I found the bolt on the side of the road (remember I said I turned it off QUICK) and there are no metal particals. But no washer. It ~is~ possible it came out of the engine with the bolt ~but~ I have no way to be sure. I have removed the guides and looked around as much as I can and am going to drain the oil and fish with a magnet a little.

If I find it....I dont know yet how ill get it out. Thats not what im worried about, what if I DONT find it.

 

[Ryno]

Man that's a tough one. There's no way to be sure without tearing down.
You don't want to take the chance that's it's going to be bouncing around down there when you fire it back up

 

[jagboy1]

you could alwaya have a fish aronud with a small magnet on a telescopic rod. works well for me in the past when i've dropped stuff.

 

[BikePilot]

What would the washer be made of?

 

[jagboy1]

it's the shim i would guess. steel i do belive.

 

[oldtlsdoug]

I believe it is copper, and you should be able to pop off the side covers and find it.

 

[BikePilot]

Well if it is copper a magnet won't do you any good. The positive side is its pretty soft and if wost comes to wost will probably get crunched up without doing much damage.

You can get to the sump screen and at least part of the oil pan by taking the right side cover off.

good luck

 

[TLstreak]

I dont think its copper Ive handled them a few times and dont recall it being a soft metal. Ill be going fishing tonight and draining the oil. As fast as I shut the engine down , I didnt think there was time to get sucked down into the engine. But theres always that possibility.

 

[Sam]

It's a shim and if it's the front cylinder then if you remove the main clutch cover it will be in there.

If it ends up in the sump, chances are it will settle under the baffle plate out of harms way. Only parts small enough to get sucked up the oil pickup will cause problems. Non of the gearbox/crank parts churn up the oil enough to bring it out from under the plate and risk flicking it at anything.

The Bolt you mentioned should also have a copper washer on the largest point that seals against the head and gives something to tighten against. The washer you mentioned is the colour graded shim that must be selected to give the correct clearance between the idler gear and the inside of the head.

Chances are you have damaged the cam chain/guides for that side as the cam drive sprocket will have climbed over the chain as it went slack when the bolt came out.

You will need to remove the main clutch cover anyway to clean the gauze oil screen that will have trapped any swarf.

 

[deltl1ks]

This is why I leave engines alone. :dunno good luck.

 

[TLstreak]

I pulled the chain guides and there was no harm done. Pulled the Left side and used a magnet with a flashlight fishing around. Will Pull the clutch side and look. No metal shaving at all anywhere. 1 mark on the casing where it looks like the sprocket hit still turning. No crack or chip just a slight shiney spot where it hit.

 

[TLstreak]

It's a shim and if it's the front cylinder then if you remove the main clutch cover it will be in there.

If it ends up in the sump, chances are it will settle under the baffle plate out of harms way. Only parts small enough to get sucked up the oil pickup will cause problems. Non of the gearbox/crank parts churn up the oil enough to bring it out from under the plate and risk flicking it at anything.

The Bolt you mentioned should also have a copper washer on the largest point that seals against the head and gives something to tighten against. The washer you mentioned is the colour graded shim that must be selected to give the correct clearance between the idler gear and the inside of the head.

Chances are you have damaged the cam chain/guides for that side as the cam drive sprocket will have climbed over the chain as it went slack when the bolt came out.

You will need to remove the main clutch cover anyway to clean the gauze oil screen that will have trapped any swarf.

Took the clutch side off, nothing. Drag the sump with a magnet and flashlight again and could see/feel anything. Took the screen out, only thing in it was a peeble and some RTV.

 

[Sam]

Looks like you got away with it :hail

Just make sure when refitting the idler gear bolt that you don't forget the copper outer washer or it will just tighten the shim/gear solid against the head, which wouldn't be good.

If you still can't find the shim, you may have to buy the middle size and then check the clearance as there are 6 sizes to choose from.

Check the manual.

 

[TLstreak]

I see the sizes 15x24x.9/1/1.5

But (need to read my manual still) how does that shim have any effect on the cam/valve clearence? I see it more as a washer for the threads to stop and not bind on the cam sprocket. Isnt it called a thrust washer in the manual. Also I did not have a copper washer when I took the bike apart, hmm another jiffy thing from the dealer ya think?

 

[Sam]

This is what you should have :-

The Bolt tightens up against the copper washer and the shim sets the clearance for the idler gear.

I would order the Light Blue Shim (Part Number 09181-15176) as most engines I've built have been this colour and check it from there with feeler gauges as per the manual page below.

 

[n2wheelies]

you guys rock!

hope those cams work out for you streak!

 

[Ricken]

I think that everytime I have removed that bolt both those rings have been sticking to it, so I would put my money that it is laying around on the road somewhere.

 

[TLstreak]

I found the page last night, swung by the nut and bolt wharehouse to see what they had. # sizes, but I need some other stuff too, so will pick them up here in a day or 2 when I drive by again.

Its sad that I fall asleep at night reading a MC maint. manual.:banghead

 

[Sam]

swung by the nut and bolt wharehouse to see what they had.

Don't forget that the washer is a shim and has to be the correct thickness and hardness and also that the thickness of the copper washer contributes to the shim size.

You need genuine Suzuki Parts, not warehouse nearest equivelents :confused

 

[TLstreak]

Ill let you worry about that part right now. Me and my feeler gauge and micrometer are using cheap washers to figure out what size I need instead of waiting weeks for the wrong part.