old post no pictures

2572 Views 24 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Six5, Feb 24, 2014

TLRNWA

Discussion Starter · Feb 11, 2014

does anyone know why the old post on here ans tl planet are not showing?? im looking for step by steps for front end conversion rear suspension swaps just some options want to do some foot work and make my bike handle a bit better stop a bit faster etc im a late breaker in the turns so i want to go faster....

Id like to do it with out breaking my bank if anyone has any answers would be gret

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

oldtlsdoug

· #2 · Feb 12, 2014

Some folks left, maybe deleted photo accounts, could you be more specific?

TLRNWA

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 12, 2014

yea i suppose if they deleted the photo accounts would make sense just a lot of the more detailed descriptions were missing the photos you can see the comments but no pictures still some good threads on here and tl planet but a lot are like swiss cheese has holes in it does anyone have a good inexpensive options to suspension swaps??

Thanks

snowblind

· #4 · Feb 12, 2014

When you say "inexpensive" what sort of budget are we talking about? There's a complete GSXR1000 K6 front end on ebay for about $500. That would go a long way to sorting the front.
The rear is going to be a bit harder but there's probably stuff out there. $1200 for an Ohlins anyone?

1crock

· #5 · Feb 12, 2014

Correct springs and new valves are the cheapest and easiest way to sort the front end. Most of the swaps are more for flash then function. :thumbup

TLRNWA

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 13, 2014

ok so i have a line on a set of k3 forks and k9 brembos total shipped $450 think this will work calipers are 108mm same as the forks not sure how rotors will work out or if i need spacers etc anyone????????

TLRNWA

Discussion Starter · #7 · Feb 13, 2014

tha ohlins for 1200 is a joke in my opinion nice name and all but ripping off customers 2 companies making a simaliar unit 1 cant possibly cost that much more ... unless you mark it up..... that much more!
i work in sales so i know these companies gouge consumers for interest paid on shelf life thus driving the price higher :thatsgay

TLRNWA

Discussion Starter · #8 · Feb 13, 2014

1crock said:
Correct springs and new valves are the cheapest and easiest way to sort the front end. Most of the swaps are more for flash then function. :thumbup

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my bike has a lot of flash but i want to ad some function dont want it to be the honda civic(all show no go) of the riding club this summer

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Brainless

· #9 · Feb 13, 2014

There is an updated front fork conversion on TLP. The author has the same screen name as me. :devious

It's 06 gixxer forks, but you'll get the point. Sam's chart will tell you if you need spacers. If you use stock rotors, you'll need 10mm spacers. I'm doing a 03-04 conversion right now.

Edit:
BUT as 1rock mentioned, the cheapest/most effective way to upgrade and get better feel is up upgrade fork internals.

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TLRNWA

Discussion Starter · #10 · Feb 13, 2014

whats the differance with the newer calipers you lose 2 pots from 5 to 4 wouldnt the 6 pots be better?? i bought the Brembo calipers so i sure hope i can make them work or they will be up for sale!!

snowblind

· #11 · Feb 13, 2014

The 4-pot radials are a huge improvement over the old 6-pots. Sam does ready made spacer kits which make the gixer fork conversions almost a straight drop-in.

On my tiller I've got K4 forks, wheel and calipers using my original discs with one of Sam's kits to hold it all together. EBC HH pads for a some extra feel. Its better than it was when it was stock. That's for sure. Plus it gives you more options if you want to play about further with new brakes and so on.

As far as $1200 for an Ohlins rear - well that just seems to be what they cost. I've got one (paid about £600 for it 7 years ago). Again, big improvement over stock. The advantages are that there's no machining or fabricating to be done if you use the dedicated item. Otherwise you can go the Showa route taking the shock from a CBR but that will require some metalwork.

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The new Performance Bikes is out and they are continuing their TL1000R makeover. Its a good article. This month they've done the front end using Gixer L0 forks among other things. Worth a read if you are planning something similar.

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Brainless

· #12 · Feb 14, 2014

Not sure if there are factual "huge" improvments between radial and conventional calipers. I would tend to argue IMWO: there might be "huge" improvements in the feel of the new setup. If one were to see actual performance differences, I sure hope that person experienced them on the track, and not on the streets.

But if you were to compare 6-pots and 4-pots, there are debates. and I think it all depends on what you really want to do: 6-pots are substantially heavier than 4's. And those calipers are un-sprung mass. A racer will want to minimize that as much as possible. 6-pot will have more surface contact against the rotors, and pads are bigger and might dissipate heat easier instead of concentrating the same heat amount on a smaller one. But again all minuscule pro's and con's for a street rider to really notice "actual" performance enhancements.

All that said: 4-pot Radial, with EOM master and a good bleed DOES "FEEL" nicer, more sensitive. Note that part of the "feel" nicer is also due to the fact that my suspensions were upgraded internally and properly setup for my weight. One forgets quite often that suspensions does a big part of how your brakes will perform properly or not.

Again, all this IMWO. I have "no basis more reliable than my own meandering." :lol

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rxf610

· #13 · Feb 14, 2014

I am dropping in these shortly:

With these attached:

Apparently the Nissin give a good upgrade for cheap. I unfortunately need to dig into my front forks because I just noticed they are leaking. :banghead

Might just be an excuse to add in some springs and valves for the value upgrade route.

Or you could just upgrade to that hideous setup Brainless is sporting. :rotfl :hail

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TLRNWA

Discussion Starter · #14 · Feb 14, 2014

ok so do i have to get the gsxr wheel to make this work? that i do not have .... also i will need to upgrade my master cylinder any suggestions i wonder if the OEM 1 from the crashed gsxr i got tha Brembos is salvageable....

Ill probably just get the BiTurbo for the rear..

ohh and will i need a new fender for the tire up front?

snowblind

· #15 · Feb 14, 2014

You don't need a gixer wheel. The original will fit with the right spacers. I just happened to pick up an entire front end when I did mine. I thought the gixer wheels are prettier than the stock items although it doesn't appear there's a great deal of weight saving.

snowblind

· #16 · Feb 14, 2014

Brainless said:
Not sure if there are factual "huge" improvments between radial and conventional calipers. I would tend to argue IMWO: there might be "huge" improvements in the feel of the new setup. If one were to see actual performance differences, I sure hope that person experienced them on the track, and not on the streets.

But if you were to compare 6-pots and 4-pots, there are debates. and I think it all depends on what you really want to do: 6-pots are substantially heavier than 4's. And those calipers are un-sprung mass. A racer will want to minimize that as much as possible. 6-pot will have more surface contact against the rotors, and pads are bigger and might dissipate heat easier instead of concentrating the same heat amount on a smaller one. But again all minuscule pro's and con's for a street rider to really notice "actual" performance enhancements.

All that said: 4-pot Radial, with EOM master and a good bleed DOES "FEEL" nicer, more sensitive. Note that part of the "feel" nicer is also due to the fact that my suspensions were upgraded internally and properly setup for my weight. One forgets quite often that suspensions does a big part of how your brakes will perform properly or not.

Again, all this IMWO. I have "no basis more reliable than my own meandering." :lol

The subject is covered quite nicely in the PB make-over article from last month. I didn't have a problem with the 6-pots when they were clean and working well.
The big problem was keeping them that way. The bike would stand on its nose quite happily when they were in good shape. A couple of weeks of English weather would soon take the edge of though. The new radials offer the same stopping power for far less effort on the lever I find and so far they've stayed working through this fine winter we're having, without having to clean them every other week.

Brainless

· #17 · Feb 14, 2014

snowblind said:
The subject is covered quite nicely in the PB make-over article from last month. I didn't have a problem with the 6-pots when they were clean and working well.
The big problem was keeping them that way. The bike would stand on its nose quite happily when they were in good shape. A couple of weeks of English weather would soon take the edge of though. The new radials offer the same stopping power for far less effort on the lever I find and so far they've stayed working through this fine winter we're having, without having to clean them every other week.

Wish we had cool MC magazines here. They're all pussies here and written in a politically correct manner so that they don't offend their sponsors or advertisers. Gawddang Capitalism pisses me off sometimes.

That said. Now you're talking maintenance. Which (again IMWO) is completely different from its performance. And yes, it usually took me a good 45min-1hr to bleed the OEM 6pot. It only takes me 15 max with the radials. I will not argue they seem to be more maintenance-free than the old farts. That is in fact one or the BIGGEST reasons that made me switch to radial. Not because they're radial; they could be made of paper and be called mache's as long as they were adequate to the street and needed less maintenane. :thumbup

To the OP: Sounds like you're going k3 forks. I don't even need a busa axle which you would need if you were to go with k5+ forks. :thumbup

The setup I have in that picture is basically exactly what you will be doing.

You need:
4 x 10mm spacers for your caliper IF you use OEM rotors and wheels
2 x 0.5mm shims for your lower triple
4 x M10x70x1.25 calipers bolts
1 x 03+ gixxer or gen2 busa fender
2 x rotor spacers

Your brenbos will probably need pads. :thumbup

You can re-use:
wheel, axle, rotors, fender bolts

Edit:
I see you're showing an SS line there. Depending on how it was cut and I'm guessing both lines are to be bolted to the master: you will need a fine pitch (1.0 I think) double banjo. Verify that your Brembo's can re-use your current banjos. They may not have the same pitch size.

This is 2 sets of rotor shims and caliper spacers from Sam (I made my own lower triple shims):

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762fmj

· #18 · Feb 14, 2014

rxf610 said:
I am dropping in these shortly:

With these attached:

Apparently the Nissin give a good upgrade for cheap. I unfortunately need to dig into my front forks because I just noticed they are leaking. :banghead

Might just be an excuse to add in some springs and valves for the value upgrade route.

Or you could just upgrade to that hideous setup Brainless is sporting. :rotfl :hail

Ahhh you should have kept the rest of Trumpet and thrown away the TL ..... Whoops ... incoming!

rxf610

· #19 · Feb 14, 2014

762fmj said:
Ahhh you should have kept the rest of Trumpet and thrown away the TL ..... Whoops ... incoming!

$35USD for the entire front brakes off eGay -or- God knows how much for the rest...

I think I might go for a Triple once I have the money, but for now it's the TL and a big smile.

:drool:drool:drool:drool:drool:drool

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762fmj

· #20 · Feb 15, 2014

If you've never ridden a Speed Triple I suggest you don't. They are absolutely brilliant .... once ridden ... forever smitten. I always now keep a triple in my stable.

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