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No Pressure on the Clutch Lever

1537 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Felipe
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Hi guys and gals,

I have a 98 TLR and developed a slight engine leak on the LHS near the engine sprocket but developed a bigger problem when sorting that out.

I removed the clutch release cylinder / speed sensor coupler and engine sprocket cover then sorted the leak out. On trying to put everything back together I couldn't get pressure back on the clutch lever despite bleeding the lines.

I noticed a thread that seemed to have cracked and wondered if that was the cause of the pressure leak. Photo one is the left side of the bike and photo two is a close up of the cracked thread.

Any suggestions on the replacement part or is this one best left for the shop?

Thanks

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That in itself won't cause any loss of pressure within the clutch hydraulics. It does all look a bit corroded though. How is the piston in the clutch slave cylinder? They can be a bit sensitive and once the seal goes the best thing it to bin it and replace.

If however, the slave cylinder is no longer being held tight flush to the casing ie that broken thread is allowing movement then your clutch action will appear to be soggy and probably it won't work too well.

If you look here:

http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/c...i/TL/TL1000R/W-K2 1998-2002/tl1000rclutch.htm

and zoom in a bit on the slave assembly it looks like the damage is the location for the bolt marked 28 on the diagram. This being so you could have something of a problem. Sling it all back together, pull the clutch and check to see if the slave housing is shifting at all.
Have you pressed the clutch slave cylinder to the fullest before trying to re-install the slave? It helps to have the master reservoir to be cracked open to allow the fluid back up. Line the area of the master reservoir for spillage.
also check to make sure the lever is releasing fully to allow fluid to fill the master cylinder
Thanks guys, will give your suggestions a try and let you know how I go. I appreciate the help..
Alright, finally had a day off work and tried the suggestions. Bike put back together and while on the stand I was able to change gears ok, but once on both wheels the clutch doesn't seem to be grabbing enough to have the bike in gear with the clutch in (it either stalls or tries to shoot me forward).
Further info

Alright, finally had a day off work and tried the suggestions. Bike put back together and while on the stand I was able to change gears ok, but once on both wheels the clutch doesn't seem to be grabbing enough to have the bike in gear with the clutch in (it either stalls or tries to shoot me forward).
I removed the master cylinder and gave it a good clean; the seal is good and it moves freely with a push of the thumb. I top up the fluid and bled the hose but there is no change to the pressure in the clutch.
That in itself won't cause any loss of pressure within the clutch hydraulics. It does all look a bit corroded though. How is the piston in the clutch slave cylinder? They can be a bit sensitive and once the seal goes the best thing it to bin it and replace.

If however, the slave cylinder is no longer being held tight flush to the casing ie that broken thread is allowing movement then your clutch action will appear to be soggy and probably it won't work too well.

If you look here:

http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/c...i/TL/TL1000R/W-K2 1998-2002/tl1000rclutch.htm

and zoom in a bit on the slave assembly it looks like the damage is the location for the bolt marked 28 on the diagram. This being so you could have something of a problem. Sling it all back together, pull the clutch and check to see if the slave housing is shifting at all.
No movement in the slave housing. I have another look at the link you entered snowblind and the crack I have is on number 26 which is called the PIN cl rlse cyl; also I noticed I don't have a dust cover on the inside of the cylinder (part 25A) which I will order.
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