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Thanks all you guys! I had a "No start" and it was the connector on the starter relais that weird enough after 20 year really looks shiny.
Just "messing" with it cured the problem.
Again, strange that the contacts look so good.
Did the "plus" mode and the rectifier upgrade so probably putting a lot of amps over the contacts.
 

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If you have done the recifier upgrade make sure that you also have power going to the battery directly as well as the other half of the loom so the bike gets power from both places. This way the relay wont have this issue again.
 

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Since you don't see evidence of overheating at the starter relay or its connector, there are a few things that should be checked downstream of the relay before you conclude it is the cause of the 'no start' problem.

At the large white gang connector on the left side of the headlight under the ram air cover, there is an Orange wire and a Red/White wire on the main loom side of the connector. The other side of this connector is the front loom. You'll notice that the Orange wire transitions into a Black/Red wire, and the Red/White wire transitions into a Brown wire.

Use a meter to measure between these wires and chassis ground. Use a small wire (or thin probe) to probe from the backside of the front loom side of the connector.

The Red/Wht & Brown combination should be at 12 volts all the time - even with the key OFF. Is it?

The Orange & Blk/Red combination should be at 12 volts after the key is turned ON. Is it?

While you are measuring these voltages, wiggle the starter relay connector and notice if the meter shows an intermittent connection. If so, you'll need to take a close look at the relay connector.

If not, then the starting problem could be elsewhere in the loom.
I'm helping a neighbor who hasn't started this TL1000R in years. There was a lot of corrosion at the starter solenoid, in fact one pin broke off in the connector, but no signs of it melting. I replaced the starter solenoid and cleaned the connector. Still no power. I added another ground strap to the frame as I noticed that the continuity of the ground fluctuated if I moved it.

Following the instructions above, the Red/Wht & Brown combination is at 12 volts even with the key OFF. The Orange & Blk/Red combination is not at 12 volts after the key is turned ON, even if I wiggle the connector at the starter solenoid.

Any suggestions?
 

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1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
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....

Following the instructions above, the Red/Wht & Brown combination is at 12 volts even with the key OFF. The Orange & Blk/Red combination is not at 12 volts after the key is turned ON, even if I wiggle the connector at the starter solenoid.

Any suggestions?
Verify the Main Fuse is good and making connection.

The ignition switch contacts or the wires exiting the switch could be the problem.

Follow the power on the RED wire up to the key switch. Then follow the power on the Orange wire down to the large white gang connector. You will find an open somewhere.
 

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1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
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I got a issue too my 30 Amp fuse keeps popping no power no lights help
Replace that 30 fuse with a test light.
Then key on.
Then disconnect the black and yellow loom connectors from the right and left switch pods respectively. The connectors are highlighted in the wiring diagram below.
Pay attention to when the test light goes out. Is it after the black or yellow was disconnected?

Let us know the results.


Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Schematic


Do you have a multimeter?
 
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