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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

Im a long time followeer, but have never posted before.

Got a small problem, well at least i hope so !

Just put my TLR back together, and run it for the first time this year, when warming her up water temp gets to 63 C and i get a C13 fault code and the engine spradically revs up and down.

I realize water temp & fault code are not related but included this for your guys reference.

This is the first time i have run the bike since i done the air box mod (I done complete air box mod removing flappers, cutting away internals.

C13 = Intake Air Pressure sensor

2000 TL1000R

Any help would be much appreciated

Cheers

Bennny boy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I removed all the vac lines and plugged them (air tight) at each of the throttle bodies ?. Im i thinking of the right vac lines ?
 

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Are these the ones for the carbon canisters :confused
 

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It depends. Did you do your full PAIR removal? If you did, the Vaccuum nipples on the left side of both TB's should all now have caps on them. You need to keep your IAPS plugged in electrically and also to a vac line (with restrictor jets) and vac damper canister (right vac canister, other vac canister you can eliminate).

I know what you're talking about, we just need to figure out exactly which vac lines you removed.
 

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Benny, I assume you've seen this diagram:



You can get rid of everything in RED.

This can also be unplugged and gotten rid of (VCSV in diagram). I would tape off the electrical plug side, then heat shrink the whole thing to keep water and other crap out (2nd pic below this text):



Heat shrinked (the other thing is your IAPS, keep that plugged in and vac line running to it):



This (VD) Vac canister (this one is normally mounted at front of the airbox) and also the orange thing (VTV) can be removed also. Cap off the TB vac nipple that the VTV's vac line ran to also:



Rear TB, left side should look like this, with caps on both nipples:

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Geekly,

Much appreciated for your detailed answer, i will throughly check i have removed all components in the above pic.

I definetly remember capping the TB's and i have got a UK bike so doesn't have PAIR valve.

I will revert in a couple of days when i have checked what i have removed, got a feeling i plugged both throttle bodies !!!!!!! (nugget)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Geekly

I realised i have removed the IAPS ! Numpty ! In the process of refitting. Do i need to keep the VD which is connected to the IAPS connected as well ?

Could you give me a quick run through possibly with pictures of how the VD and IAPS should be connected

Thanks in advance

Ben
 

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I'll see if I have a pic handy bud, on the road presently so I'll check in a bit. For the IAPS, there should be a vac line coming off the front TB, right side, I routed mine through the space between the throttle bodies. It should come to a "T" fitting, (make sure the restrictor jets are in place, squeezing the vac lines will tell you if they're in there, should be one just before the "T", and another just before the IAPS), to the right (sitting on bike), the vac line goes to the VD vac canister, to the left of the "T" the other vac line goes to the IAPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All done exactly as above those restrictors are hard to find !, Went to start the bike up and it fired twice but then kept turning over !

So i took the (new) rear spark plug out and it was wet also checked for a spark by holding it against the engine, it sparked ok looked a bit weak but the battery was fully charged and i was only holding it against the engine ! The fuel pump prime as usual and didnt get a fault code, i double checked every connection.

I did have the bike running with the new plugs took it up and down the road once, then the next day wouldnt start. I definetly bought the correct plugs (NGK iridium)

Any ideas much appreciated
 

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On a temporary sidenote, Iridiums aren't necessary. Lots of guys run them but the direct replacement is the NGK CR9EK (dual ground straps vs the Iridiums' single ground strap). Iridium, although extremely dense/durable/reliable, doesn't have superior conductivity. Personally, I don't run either of those plugs, but my ignition setup isn't exactly stock either.

It sounds like you're getting gas, correct? You could try going one heat range hotter spark plugs (CR8EK). Alternatively, do all the normal troubleshooting steps which I'm sure you've heard mentioned previously, dielectric grease on ALL electrical connections, check starter relay near battery and all connections near it...etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok done some troubleshooting today, had majority of the loom apart today, found a few dodgy/weak joints sorted them out, checked/cleaned all connections, removed power commander, charged battery overnight, pulled starter relay apart cleaned and put back together, checked all fuses, done ground mod, replaced kick stand switch and still no joy !!!!, TLR turns over lovely all the way until the battery goes flat !!!

My next idea was to test the battery, replace the plugs and try and start with fuel cap open (will having fuel cap open help?), i think it is the next move what everyone elses opinon ?

BTW i am trying to start with air box lid off and tank in the propped position. Also i havent replaced fuel filter !

Comments welcome
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ahh ok just to inform anyone folowing my lil story just solved the problem...... My TLR did not like Iridium plugs, put a couple of CR9EK's back in fired on first turnover !!
 

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Thatta boy :thumbup

I was hoping you'd throw the non-Iridiums in 'er :)

Glad you got the ol' bitch back 'n' runnin bud :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Geekly, how are ya ?

Got one more little problem, my TLR has been sitting for about 9 months now (constant modding and cleaning) and when i fired it up i couldnt get the clutch to completely disengage in 1st or 2nd. (didnt try other gears)

With the bike off, in 1st and clutch lever in the engine is still engaged i think ? i can still move the wheel with two hands and a bit of force.

I changed the clutch fluid, and done the push-rod seal, drink straw and pen spring trick and cleaned the cylinder which moves freely i also changed the enginer oil for 10w - 40 semi, I did ensure i didnt trap any air as well

Do you think i just need to use the bike and get the oil circulating ?

Any info much appreciated
 

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Boy, I wish I could get my hands on your scooter fella. I have heard horror stories about guys not being able to effectively bleed their hydraulic clutches. Are you using a Mityvac or other power bleeder? If an air bubble is stuck in a "corner", you can pull the lever to bleed it all ya want, it's only gonna compress the bubble. In that situation, you need to "suck" the bubble/s out. Other than that, have you actually pulled the clutch cover off and looked at it? With the bike on the sidestand, it won't spill oil.


:eatcorn
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Geekly, i re-bled the clutch with help and the clutch now disengages !!!!, thanks for your help, sure it wont be the last Haa Haa Cheers Ben
 

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I've been trying to get my mans tls working but don't know what he's done. Turn key nothing, muck with fuse, connections, turned on for a sec then nothing?? What shall I do :cautious::p:cool:
 
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