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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, Since the fast-idle cable was stuck on my TLR, I started removing stuff untill I got to the actual cable. I noticed a few things for which I would appreciate some advice from the experienced owners:

  • the oil in my airbox, is that normal? I saw a 'drainage' tube for the oil, is this oil running back to the sump?
  • does someone know which exhaust have been fitted to my TLR, is it just the dampers or a complete line? It looks like some db-killers could be fitted if I would know which brand/type of exhaust I have. Convenient for a visit to the track
  • the rubbers between throttle bodies and engine are cracked and I would like to replace them. Does anyone know the partnumber of that. Also does the complete throttle body assembly come off when I open the 'lashings' -sorry I don't know their name-.
  • I see there have been GSXR-wheels fitted for weight pupose I suppose, does anyone notice other stuff that has been replaced?
  • my bottom (oil?)cooler looks destroyed from stone chips. Does anyone know the partnumber?

Besides that I didn't see major problems so I will happy to restore the bike to some of it's former glory.

thank you for the advice!
 

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Hi, ......
the oil in my airbox, is that normal? I saw a 'drainage' tube for the oil, is this oil running back to the sump?
Oil in a TLR air box is not as common as the TLS, but it does happen. Yes, the oil will drain back to the sump through that vent hose that leads down to the crankcase. However, the oil is likely up there because the crankcase is overfilled. Also there should be a mesh material at the top of that hose inside a pocket in the air box. It is there to give the oil Mist something to condense onto. The mesh often disintegrates. It can easily be replaced with a stainless mesh (or nylon) dishwashing pad

  • does someone know which exhaust have been fitted to my TLR, is it just the dampers or a complete line? It looks like some db-killers could be fitted if I would know which brand/type of exhaust I have. Convenient for a visit to the track.
The exhaust mufflers on your TLR are Yoshimura bolt-on cans. It is not a full system. Yoshimura may offer DB Killers for those RS3 cans, but you may need to drill a small hole in the tail cap to anchor the DB killer


  • the rubbers between throttle bodies and engine are cracked and I would like to replace them. Does anyone know the partnumber of that. Also does the complete throttle body assembly come off when I open the 'lashings' -sorry I don't know their name-.
The rubber intake manifolds below the throttle bodies are still available new from Suzuki. You should be able to find the part number with any online microfiche.

Yes, the throttle body assembly can be removed as one unit after all of the cables and associated hardware have been disconnected


  • my bottom (oil?)cooler looks destroyed from stone chips. Does anyone know the partnumber?....
Both radiators on a TLR are for engine coolant, not oil.

If new OEM radiators are even available, they will be quite expensive! Many owners have had good success with the Chinese made radiators found on eBay / Amazon.

Oil cooling on a TLR is actually cared for by a heat exchanger that sits behind the oil filter.
 

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Regarding the rubber intake manifolds, be sure to order the screws that hold them to the head. A strong Loctite is used on those screws, and you may not be able to remove the original screws in one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi six5, thanks for your quick reply.

about the oil in the airbox: On the forum I read that the oil/air separator was upgraded in 2001. Was this only for TLS maybe? anyway I think I have the old 'kidney'-style separator, in my enthusiasm I ordered the 2001 version somewhere in France. Because of the oil in the airbox, it leaked a bit on the front throttle body and onto the rubber intake manifolds. It actually preserved the front rubber intake manifold, maybe Suzuki has designed it that way? :)

about the radiators: I've seen the radiators on ebay for like 150$ or so. Are these any good or should I try to straighten the fins on the existing ones? any suggestions on how to drain the coolant or is it just 'disconnect a hose and make a mess'?

One thing I noticed on the way back from where I bought the bike, it backfires very often. It's already a very loud bike and having backfire each time I close the throttle....all mums at the side of the road loot at me with anger! It backfires with one big bang. I read that the suspects are the spigot gasket near the swingarm (air being sucked into the exhaust pipe), or the 'pair-valve' I don't even know if EU-bikes have a pair valve.... Any suggestions?
 

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Yes, the upgraded oil/air separator is a good move, and the same change was made for both models. This may be the largest contributor in keeping oil out of the air box.

I don't have any personal experience with the Chinese radiators, but I have seen a number of good reports on them. If I needed a set, I would certainly give them a try.
Every time I empty the coolant I make a mess, so I guess I'm not much help for you in that department. :rolleyes::D There is a bleed screw / drain at the bottom of the water pump cover, but that won't impact the lower half of the system.

The backfiring you are experiencing is most likely due to the rear spigot donut gasket. I don't think the EU bikes have the PAIR valve system.

Happy wrenching! (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanx for the tips Six5. I just ordered the spigot gasket and the bottom radiator.

My bike also has a strange fenomena: after switching on the ignition, the starter motor doesn't want to turn over, it takes almost 10s before it responds to the starter button. The battery is not great, but I would expect the starter motor to attempt a start of the bike when the starter button is being pressed. does this ring a bell?
 

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......
My bike also has a strange fenomena: after switching on the ignition, the starter motor doesn't want to turn over, it takes almost 10s before it responds to the starter button. .......
Can you hear the starter relay click when you press the starter button? If it is silent, the first thing I would look at is the clutch switch. It is mounted below the lever and, on a TLR, it is a small micro switch. The contacts are exposed to the elements, plus they get pitted from normal use, so sometimes they become intermittent. That switch provides the ground connection for the starter relay coil.

If the clutch switch checks out okay, then it may be time to have a look at the starter button itself, along with the corresponding contact in the starter relay connector. Make sure the terminals and contacts are shiny and not oxidized. Also verify continuity between the two points in that circuit.

While you are at it, download the appropriate wiring diagram for your TLR from this link.
Full Colour Wiring Diagrams
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will check these switches, thank you for the schematic. But somehow I don't suspect a bad contact since the fenomena is very constant and doesn't seem random. BUT the 'driving light' is flickering while idling so the battery is weak or there is a problem with power supply. I'll replace the battery first and see what I have then. There are also remnants of an alarm-system maybe this has something to do with it.

I checked the post about 'overhaulin the six-pot calipers'. Is it really possible some pistons are stuck? I would suspect the hydraulic pressure to force each of the pistons to do their job; If a piston would 'stay behind', it would receive immense pressure when the brake lever is pulled hard, no? Anyway the brake lever doesn't feel great, it has more travel that I would desire, and a bit (a lot) more 'bite' would be nice. My previous two-wheeler was a modern Vespa (oops, did I say that?), and the brakes were much more aggressive. After 66000 km, an overhaul might be beneficial?
 

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True, a healthy battery is a necessity for a TL. That's a given. Otherwise, you risk damage to the sprag clutch, and general poor performance.
On the subject of the battery, it is also vital that the charging system is working properly. It is a common weak link in the TL, and it can even shorten the life of a new battery when it is not functioning properly.

This link will help you diagnose and repair the charging system.
Definitive Charging System Diagnostic & Upgrade Thread

You say, "Anyway the brake lever doesn't feel great, it has more travel that I would desire, and a bit (a lot) more 'bite' would be nice. "
This comes as no surprise. Whether or not any pistons are sticking in the calipers, you will find the Tokico 6-pots to be high maintenance in order to attain good feel and action. Pistons do get stuck, either in or out, and it degrades the braking performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok, just ordered the caliper rebuild kit and stainless steel brakelines. This project is getting bigger and bigger :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
damn, just received the 2001 improved oil separator: the last one in europe I believe. 85 euro for a plastic box with stainless steel metal chips inside. Auwch! but it's Suzuki genuine part. Got to respect the companies that keep stock for our 22 year old bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi, I'm having a hard time getting this improved oil separator in place. Can I use the old hoses, the position of the connections compared to the old 'kidney' style separator look identical. Do I need to drain the coolant and remove the thermostat to fit the new separator? I could fill the old separator after filling it with SS shavings (now it's empty) like the 'revolutionary' improved part. But I'm stubborn and I want to fit this goddamn 85 euro new part!
 

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I changed mine out many years ago, so I don't recall exactly what had to come off to make it fit. I probably did it while I was changing thermostats also.
Now is a good time to upgrade to a 195°F thermostat.

It is a snug fit, so it should become obvious what needs to move as you get closer to fitting it. The original hoses should be fine - unless they have been abused.

DSCN7444 by Tony Six5, on Flickr


Also, the material inside the oil separator is not "stainless steel shavings." It is actually closer to stainless steel dishwashing pad. You certainly don't want any loose metal shavings to work their way into the crankcase.

The original kidney-shaped separators have been successfully retrofitted with a dishwashing pad stuffed inside of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Six5, indeed it's dishwasher pad. I changed the rear rubber air intake, like you mentioned the screws that held it in place were almost impossible to undo even with impact wrench. I had to gorilla-out the intake rubber by tearing it into pieces and grab the screws with vice-grip. I was right to replace that intake-rubber because it was cracked almost all the way through. The front intake rubber was preserved by the oil leaking out of the airbox, so I would like to avoid removing this front one(for easier installation of new the oil separator) because the screws can't be undone without destroying the intake rubber. I'll remove the thermostat (85°C) and hope not to make to much of a mess. Can I top up the lost coolant with demineralized water? Because in a few weeks I will receive the new bottom radiator from China, and then I can use proper new coolant fluid after a complete drain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Success! I could easily install the new oil separator after removal of the thermostat. Didn't lose too much coolant, just a top-up of the coolant tank will be sufficient. One thing I find strange, the back cylinder gets a head-breather tube towards the oil separator, but the front one doesn't. How does this work?
 

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...... I changed the rear rubber air intake, like you mentioned the screws that held it in place were almost impossible to undo even with impact wrench.
Congrats on getting those intake screws out without snapping one off. If that happens you have a real headache on your hands. Next time, if you ever need to replace the front boot, go lightly on the impact wrench and heat the head with a torch around the screws. This will soften the Loctite.
IMO, the amount of Loctite they use on those screws is overkill. Suzuki could also use a less permanent version of it, like Loctite 242.

..... Can I top up the lost coolant with demineralized water? Because in a few weeks I will receive the new bottom radiator from China, and then I can use proper new coolant fluid after a complete drain.
That's fine. (y)
 

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...... One thing I find strange, the back cylinder gets a head-breather tube towards the oil separator, but the front one doesn't. How does this work?
I thought that was strange also, but Suzuki engineers no doubt spent some time analyzing the pressure transfers between the crankcase and the heads. This system probably alleviates most of the problem, without making the tubing network too complex.
These days, it doesn't keep me awake at night. ;)

Somewhere in the forum here (or maybe on TLPlanet), Sam wrote up an explanation with a couple of diagrams of the venting difference between the '97 TLS and the later models.
You can search for it using his name and "crankcase venting" if you are really interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I fitted a new choke(high idle) cable as the previous one was jammed. I started the bike and set minimum idle with the external idle screw next to the tank. Although the tension on the choke cable is correct, it doesn't seem to have any authority. the concentric wheel actuated by the choke-cable doesn't touch the intake valve actuator arm. I'm not sure which screw to adjust and I'm worried messing up the intake valve synchronization.
 
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