New guy question

1186 Views 13 Replies 4 Participants Last post by rgtrough, Nov 14, 2013

rgtrough

Discussion Starter · Nov 9, 2013

Hey guys, new to this forum. I just bought a 2001 tl 1000r with 27k miles. After reading through the forum I see that the tiller has a sensitive ecu. Bubba (previous owners) has done a lot of things to this bike. I'm trying to clean up some things like clutch override jumper. I heard this could cause the ecu to go into limp mode. Right now the engine starts to miss at wot starting at 6000 rpms. Any obvious problems come to mind? I will looking for the obvious; vacuum leaks, spark plugs/wires, fuel filter/fuel pump. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

peace Bud

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snowblind

· #2 · Nov 9, 2013

Don't think the TL ECU is more sensitive than other especially. If it gets crap signals it will behave like crap. If you have doubts about any of the mods that have been put in then take them out. Clutch switch bypass is one that has been known to mess things up. Go through the usual standard stuff like plugs, oil, filters etc. The fuel filter is a good one to check. Do a tour pulling and reseating all the main electrical connectors to break any corrosion layers that may have built up. Give it another run and see how you get on.

Is this miss at 6000rpm in any gear?

Cheers

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DenWous

· #3 · Nov 9, 2013

if its consistent at 6000rpm at any gear its bound to be the secondary injectors, they kick in at that rpm

also as you say yourself, check for fuel pressure and fuel amount when priming the bike

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rgtrough

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 9, 2013

Hey guys, thanks for the quick replies. Yes the miss comes on at 6000 or so rpms in any gear. If I feather the throttle it will prolong the miss but it will come in. The clutch safety switch has a jumper between the 2 wires at the clutch lever bracket. Pull the jumper and plug the wires back into the bracket, no start. Put the jumper back it, starts right up. I have read that there is a right way to eliminate the safety switch without messing up the performance of the bike. I doubt that a jumper across the wires is the correct way. Also how do I measure fuel pressure? Will I need to install anything?

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rgtrough

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 9, 2013

Update, I started the beast with the jumper wire connected between the clutch safety switch wires at the clutch bracket. Then I pulled the jumper. Engine stayed running. I went for a ride. Bike reved much better. Still missed sometime but not till 9 grand. Who knew. Snowblind did. Thanks a lot now to replace the clutch bracket that houses the switch.

peace Bud

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snowblind

· #6 · Nov 9, 2013

Glad to hear you've got some progress. Taking a punt: if your machine has the clutch switch tweaked, what's the chance its also had a TRE fitted?
If yes, try taking that out too or replace it with a decent version. Bad one's are probably more trouble than they are worth.

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rgtrough

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 9, 2013

Where would that be wired in? I think the previous owner just jumped the clutch switch because it broke. I just want to replace the broken switch, do you know what it's called? Clutch safety switch seems to easy.

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Six5

· #8 · Nov 9, 2013

rgtrough said:
Update,....... Then I pulled the jumper. Engine stayed running. I went for a ride. Bike reved much better. Still missed sometime but not till 9 grand. .....now to replace the clutch bracket that houses the switch. ...

The clutch switch has two functions.
1) It provides the ground connection for the coil in the starter relay.
2) It signals the ECM when the clutch is pulled. The ECM then accordingly alters the fueling under certain conditions.

I'm surprised that it had an impact at 6000 rpm, but I suppose stranger things have happened.....:confused

rgtrough said:
.... I just want to replace the broken switch, do you know what it's called? Clutch safety switch seems to easy.

The clutch perch (bracket) remains. Only the switch needs to be replaced.

Suzuki calls it a:
SWITCH ASSY, CLUTCH

p/n 57560-02FA0

Item #11 in this link:
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3d074f870021958f2879c/handle-lever

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snowblind

· #9 · Nov 10, 2013

A useful place to go for diagrams, part nos etc is here.

http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/content/pages/shop/parts/Suzuki/TL/TL1000R/W-K2 1998-2002.htm

Nice little zoom feature on the diagrams and exploded views.

Plus you get to laugh at what Suzuki is charging for stuff these days. :lol

uke

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rgtrough

Discussion Starter · #10 · Nov 11, 2013

Again, thanks for the replies. I ordered the clutch switch. How do I test for fuel pressure and what should it be? Also where would a TRE be wired?

peace Bud

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Six5

· #11 · Nov 12, 2013

rgtrough said:
.... How do I test for fuel pressure and what should it be?

Also where would a TRE be wired?

The fuel pressure test is outlined on page 4-50 of the service manual with pictures and description. Pressure is rated at 41psi above intake manifold pressure.

If it has a TRE, it will be in line between the gear position switch and the main wire loom. It's on the right side behind the frame spar - about where your knee locates when seated on the bike. Typically, it has two white, triangular shaped, three-terminal connectors.

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rgtrough

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 13, 2013

Again thanks 6. Ok tested the fuel pressure today. I did not have an adaptor that would fit on the fuel rail so I ran a new fuel line cut it half way and installed an inline adaptor. Priming the system off the battery the pressure never rose above 25 psi. After starting the bike the pressure built to 38 psi. No more. I left the return line off of the tank and no fuel ever came out. Makes sense I guess. Next I pulled the pump out of the tank and removed the fuel filter not knowing if it was clogged. I installed a section of 5/16" fuel line in lieu of the filter reinstalled the pump. Now when I prime off the battery 0 psi. Engine will start and rev but still no pressure. Of course no fuel comes out of the return line. Why no pressure? Does the pump need the filter to build pressure? How does the bike start and run with no pressure? I am confused?

peace Bud

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Six5

· #13 · Nov 14, 2013

rgtrough said:
..... Now when I prime off the battery 0 psi. Engine will start and rev but still no pressure. Of course no fuel comes out of the return line. Why no pressure? Does the pump need the filter to build pressure? How does the bike start and run with no pressure? I am confused?
....

Bud, obviously, it has some fuel pressue. Inadequate yes, but enough to allow it to start. :dowhat As to why your gauge shows 0psi, it is a mystery at the moment. :O Check your connections, and test the gauge on a known good pressure point. If it is the original pump, it could also be on its way out. The fact that you were getting no fuel through the return line (i.e. through the regulator) pretty much confirms that the pump is weak, OR, there is something cloggin the pick-up port on the pump, OR the regulator is stuck closed (but that is rare).

The pump doesn't need the filter to build pressure. That's what the regulator is for. Plus, you were measuring the pressure AFTER the filter, not before it.

You will want to install a filter in the circuit ASAP to prevent the pump from passing crud from the fuel tank on through to the fuel rail and injectors. It could just compound the problem.

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rgtrough

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 14, 2013

Another day, another mystery. Decided to reinstall the filter and take pressure readings with a different fuel pressure gauge. Cleaned filter with compressed air and gas. Put pump back in tank, hooked up new pressure gauge in line. No pressure. Engine starts. This gauge has an adaptor that will fit the banjo fitting on the fuel rail. No pressure. Engine starts. Push bike out of garage, let it warm up and rev the bike to 8k no miss. rev to 9k no miss. Idle to wot. No miss. Put bike back together, put on my gear (it was 37 degrees today) and went for a ride. HOLY MOLLIE BATMAN!!! This bike is fast. No miss from idle to 10k rpm in any gear. Good news right? Except I have no idea what fixed this problem. I have been building fast cars for 30 years and thought I had seen it all. I chose one wild bike to get back into motorcycling. Oh well it will be winter soon and time to learn, not ride. Thanks for everyones help. I'm sure I'll be back with more puzzles that need solved. Thanks for being here for guys like me.

peace Bud

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