TLZone Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys finally getting back to rebuilding my 1997 TL1000S after many years, poor bike has been sitting under the cover in the back of the garage. Bought it with blown motor so ended up getting another used motor off of Ebay. I am very close in starting it up and finishing up the harness wiring. The motor I have bought must be 98+ since the gear position sensor has a 3 wire plug and I noticed my 1997 harness only has 2. They switched to 3 in 1998 from what I hear.

I notice the 1998 GPS sensor uses blue/red/black wire and my 1997 harness plug only uses blue/red, which turns into blue/pink after plug.

If i try using JUST the blue/red wires from this 1998+ engine, which will involve splicing to mate up to my 1997 harness, will it still work? Or do i have to take the sensor off of this 1998+ engine and replace it with a 1997 2 wire sensor?

Appreciate all the help
 

·
Super Moderator
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,699 Posts
Hi guys finally getting back to rebuilding my 1997 TL1000S ........ The motor I have bought must be 98+ since the gear position sensor has a 3 wire plug and I noticed my 1997 harness only has 2. They switched to 3 in 1998 from what I hear.
......
Yes, the gear position sensor (GPS) will still work if you splice blue to blue and red to Pink. However, you might consider getting a connector to mate to your '97 two-pin loom connector. That connector (and terminals) should be available at one of these two websites.

Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

The place for all your motorcycle electric needs.


Be mindful that Eastern Beaver has a minimum buy quantity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wanted to update you on this, got most of the bike together, new fuel pump, filter, battery, everything basically. I can get the bike to crank but no start. Dont hear the pump prime either, if i jump the orange/blue and yellow/red on the fuel pump relay plug it does prime.

I also noticed there is no neutral light on my gauge cluster, remember i went from 3 wire switch wired up to 2 wire harness. I even tried grounding the black wire as mentioned earlier and i cant get the neutral light to come on. I ordered another used switch, i was able to find a 2 wire one. Thinking current 3 wire thats on there might be damaged to begin with?
 

·
Super Moderator
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,699 Posts
Wanted to update you on this, got most of the bike together, new fuel pump, filter, battery, everything basically. I can get the bike to crank but no start. Dont hear the pump prime either, if i jump the orange/blue and yellow/red on the fuel pump relay plug it does prime.
Try this to find the problem area.
Without the jumper in place, connect your voltmeter between the Yellow/blue wire at the fuel pump relay (FPR) connector and a good chassis ground point.
While monitoring the voltmeter, turn the key ON and note the voltage. It should show about ~1 volt for three seconds, and then go up to about 12 volts. If you missed that event, you can recreate it by cycling the 'kill switch.' Each time the kill switch is cycled, the fuel pump should go through the 'prime cycle.' That means the voltage on the Yel/blu wire should go low to 1 volt for 3 seconds each time.

Does it?


I also noticed there is no neutral light on my gauge cluster, remember i went from 3 wire switch wired up to 2 wire harness. I even tried grounding the black wire as mentioned earlier and i cant get the neutral light to come on. I ordered another used switch, i was able to find a 2 wire one. Thinking current 3 wire thats on there might be damaged to begin with?
The Blue wire provides the ground connection for the Neutral light through the GPS when it is in Neutral. You can use your ohm meter between the Blue wire and chassis ground to see if that connection is occurring in Neutral. If it shows a resistance of 1 or 2 ohms, the GPS is doing its job. Click the transmission into 1st or 2nd gear and notice the resistance changes.


With the ohm meter it should show continuity all the way up to the Side Stand Relay Diode. Beyond that point, you'll need to use the "diode test function" on your meter to overcome the diode junction. In other words, use the diode test function to probe between the Blue wire at the instrument cluster connector and chassis ground. In this mode, be sure the RED probe is on the blue wire and the BLACK probe is on chassis ground. Most meters will offer an audible beep if the connection is good, and will show ~ 0.7 to 1.5 volts in the readout.

Let us know what you find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So getting back to this and thinking about it more and doing research I believe I know what the problem is and why fuel pump isnt coming on. When I originally got the bike, it came in boxes, i mean 3 boxes of parts and a frame on wheels and a blown engine kind of bad. Putting it all together, I found that the bike had no ignition switch in any of the boxes. The gas tank did have the original key but no ignition switch.

So what do I do, lets jump on ebay and get one of those kits that comes with a new ignition switch, new gas cap, etc. One of these For Suzuki TL1000R TL1000S Ignition Switch Gas Cap Cover Seat Lock Key Set | eBay

And guess what, I find this video,
Basically these aftermarket ignition switches do not come with or have a correct resistor for the ECU antitheft feature. I verified this by putting the bike in the dealer mode and I am getting the C41 and C42 codes. So now I either find a OEM switch with a key or figure out what kind of damn resistor I need to put in this aftermarket switch assembly 🤬
 

·
Super Moderator
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,699 Posts
So getting back to this and thinking about it more and doing research I believe I know what the problem is and why fuel pump isnt coming on. ....
Basically these aftermarket ignition switches do not come with or have a correct resistor for the ECU antitheft feature. I verified this by putting the bike in the dealer mode and I am getting the C41 and C42 codes. So now I either find a OEM switch with a key or figure out what kind of damn resistor I need to put in this aftermarket switch assembly 🤬
1STL, it would have been helpful if you had mentioned these error codes earlier in the thread. :rolleyes:

Perhaps, I should have asked...:unsure:

At any rate, the C42 is the primary issue now. Nothing will work until that is fixed.
It can be bypassed with a 100 ohm resistor connected between the Orange/red and Black/wht wires at the ignition switch connector, or you can install the same patch on the same wires near the ECM connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry I didnt check for codes until recently. I added a 100ohm resistor and now everything is well as far as fuel pump, no codes and fuel pump normally primes through relay when key is turned. I still cannot get it started since I am waiting on that gear position switch, current one that came with this engine is bad so the ecu does not know that the bike is neutral thats why it wont start, correct?
 

·
Super Moderator
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,699 Posts
.... I still cannot get it started since I am waiting on that gear position switch, current one that came with this engine is bad so the ecu does not know that the bike is neutral thats why it wont start, correct?
Glad you are making progress. (y)

When the transmission is in Neutral, the GPS is effectively not in the circuit. None of the "gear position" resistors are selected via the switch, so the Pink wire is pulled up to +5V. That voltage level tells the ECM the tranny is in neutral.
Therefore, the Neutral fuel injection map is selected, and the engine should start and run normally.

Even if the GPS were completely disconnected from the loom, the engine should still start and idle in Neutral, because the pullup resistor for the Pink wire is within the ECM itself.

See SteveTLS' website for schematics and further details.
Steve's TL1000S pages
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
More updates:

took the air box off, checked voltage to each injector when cranking, both injectors have voltage but no fuel getting through to them, fuel regulator bad? Anyway, for the heck of it since I figured i have spark, let me dump some fuel down the throttle bodies and try to start it, IT RUNS! and sounds amazing, i just have to figure out my fuel delivery issue now!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Another update as I am drinking beer and working on this in the garage, tapped on the fuel pressure regulator few times, must have been stuck closed after sitting for over a decade because as I dumped more fuel into the throttle bodies and cranked it, it started, and it kept running off of the fuel tank! This has been long time for me my friends since I originally bought the bike in 2011? 2012? I cant even remember anymore 🍻
 

·
Super Moderator
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,699 Posts
...., tapped on the fuel pressure regulator few times, must have been stuck closed after sitting for over a decade because as I dumped more fuel into the throttle bodies and cranked it, it started, and it kept running off of the fuel tank! ....
Congrats on getting your loooong term project TL running! (y) (y) That's a nice feeling! :p:cool:

I'm in a similar situation. I've had an engine, frame, and various other parts since 2012, but I can't seem to get them to come together. :D

A thought on the fuel pressure regulator (FPR):
It is rare that this component fails on a TL. As you know, it is merely a spring-loaded valve with a vacuum diaphragm that can work against the spring tension. It is calibrated to open when the 'fuel rail' side of the diaphragm has ~42 psi greater pressure than the vacuum side. When the valve opens, the fuel in the rail is allowed to return the fuel tank.

If the FPR were stuck closed, the fuel rail would still be pressurized, but the pressure differential would exceed the ~42 psi. In fact, the pressure should go as high as the pump is able to push it (some pumps are better than others). The point is, the fuel rail would be pressurized, and the injectors would have sprayed fuel if they opened.

Since no fuel was initially spraying through your injectors, they may have been gummed up with varnish; or maybe the pump was temporarily clogged; or maybe the C41 error code returned and you didn't notice; or maybe the FRP was stuck open ;), thus pressure would not develop in the rail; or.....

It doesn't really matter now. You got it running! :cool:
Just something to think about the next time you run across a similar problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I cleaned all the components and bench tested the injectors before installing them. Even cleaned the tank and installed new fuel pump.

Anyhow no idea but thats what got it running, what a roller coaster this was. Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top