TLZone Forums banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The frame is stripped almost completely, the triple-trees are out etc. But there's still that aluminum tube that holds the bearings inside the cast neck. I see there's a roll pin on the other end...but first I need the tool to remove that huge nut!!! Anybody got any good ideas? Would be a real pain to have to make a special wrench to fit, but I don't want to scratch it all up with a pipe wrench. The huge nut's outer edge is kind of castellated, more like blocks and notches around it's O.D.

Maybe some tool like the shock-absorber adjusters, only MUCH larger would work? Since Suzuki doesn't sell these tubes separately, I wonder whether they even have a tool? I guess you'd have to remove this somehow to install the Yosh race tube w/ offset adjustments?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,308 Posts
You are pretty much limited to a hammer and punch or chisel. It's not on tight. Just pick a tab you'll never see, to hit.

Its steel. I thought about making it in aluminum with holes for a pin type shock wrench or the Penske tool, which is just a 1/4" shaft.

Why are you removing it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
I just removed mine last night. It wasn't on tight at all. I put a wooden dowel rod up against one of the notches and punched it with a hammer. Spun right off, no drama. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,879 Posts
order up some new bearings while you've got them out......
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I already have a set of upgrade roller bearings ready to go in.

I just wanted it apart for the lye/polishing bit, and to remove/replace the bearings.

I'm thinking I should be able to make some kind of "C" tool that gets into one notch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,879 Posts
Just use a screwdriver and hammer...as has been said, it's not torqued very high, especially with the oem ball bearings....you won't hurt it.

Most difficult part I had (replaced bearings last month) was seating the new ones.

I used a dremel to cut the old race off (didn't have to get all the way through before it snapped). Then dremeled the inside of the the same old race to use to beat the new race in (after sitting in freezer). Also used a piece of copper pipe to beat on it, softer than anything else in the equation.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK then I'll try it this weekend! Wish me luck! Thanks all for all the advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
I already have a set of upgrade roller bearings ready to go in.

I just wanted it apart for the lye/polishing bit, and to remove/replace the bearings.

I'm thinking I should be able to make some kind of "C" tool that gets into one notch.
:dowhat
:confused you dont need to remove the alu tube to change the berings
you whill need a big bering press to remove the alu tube
and it can get damage then it must be made from scratch
cant buy that alu tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,879 Posts
:dowhat
:confused you dont need to remove the alu tube to change the berings
you whill need a big bering press to remove the alu tube
and it can get damage then it must be made from scratch
cant buy that alu tube.
I think the 'tube' he is referring to is the headstock, only thing there with the nut he is describing.


he won't need a bearing press for any of this, just a punch (or similar to remove old races) and the old races to put in the new taper set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
I think the 'tube' he is referring to is the headstock, only thing there with the nut he is describing.


he won't need a bearing press for any of this, just a punch (or similar to remove old races) and the old races to put in the new taper set.
read the first post

i just had the alu tube out end the hidrulig press whas pushing 4 tons
when it startet to move and to get it completly out 2 tonns afterthat.

and you can do that with a punch or similiar a big :hail to you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,879 Posts
read the first post

i just had the alu tube out end the hidrulig press whas pushing 4 tons
when it startet to move and to get it completly out 2 tonns afterthat.

and you can do that with a punch or similiar a big :hail to you
Yes, I did read the first post. Please explain what nut, other than the one holding the stem and lower tree on, he could be referring too, and why he would need to remove that to install new bearing races.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
:dowhat
:confused you dont need to remove the alu tube to change the berings
you whill need a big bering press to remove the alu tube
and it can get damage then it must be made from scratch
cant buy that alu tube.

Yikes, if it's that hard to press out I'll just remove the nut and leave the tube in, and leave the old ball-races in to protect those bore areas during the polishing etc. I'm just the kind of guy who takes EVERYTHIng all the way apart. Thanks for the heads-up. Was it that much pressure even with the cast neck heated?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
The inner steering neck sleeve and nut that comes as part of the frame does not have to be removed to access the bearing races for the triple clamp. Those races are to be driven out from the top and bottom of the neck per the service manual. There are recesses in the neck's race seat flanges to allow you to catch the back face of each race and drive them out.

That inner sleeve can't be seen when the clamps are reassembled, so there's no need to remove it for painting or any other process. If camper wants, he could remove the lower neck nut and paint just that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
fwiw-

I used the old races, ground down slightly for an easy slide fit, some heavy fender washers, a length of acme theaded rod and nuts to match: and cobbled up a tool to press in the new races. I froze the new races to shrink them and pressed them into the neck one at a time, on a hot day. No drama at all!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,899 Posts
I think the 'tube' he is referring to is the headstock, only thing there with the nut he is describing.


he won't need a bearing press for any of this, just a punch (or similar to remove old races) and the old races to put in the new taper set.
The TLS has a conventional headstock which is part of the frame casting.
The TLR is different and has a inner tube inside the headstock casting.


fwiw
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,308 Posts
I just removed the neck sleeve, It would have been a pain in the ass to press out, because the bottom of the neck is not flat, you would need some kind of giant ring to set the neck on to make it flat and press it out, not sure what ICE did about this. We just placed a large piece of brass of the top of the sleeve and knocked it out with a large hammer and a few wacks, wood will know work, but the brass transfered the force well and it popped right out. No damage. I would never do this, but the frame was getting thrown out and I wanted to keep the sleeve.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,697 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I left it on and applied the lye to remove the crystal anodize layer. Looks like crap now. I wish I'd have disassembled it COMPLETELY. Now I have to decide whether I can clean it up where it is LOL. Oh well. At least I've got a spare...but this frame has the numbers that match the title.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top