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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off I test rode a 97 TLS today and I have to say incomparison to a 2000 that I test rode the 97 was an ASSKICKIN' beast! When I first started to look for a TLS I thought I wanted to stay away from the 97 because of the associated bugs to be delt with but I now believe it would be well worth the effort.
Bike has 9800 mi on it, D&D full system, GSXR 6 pots with braided lines, the replacement ECU and a few little cosmetic add ons that I don't really care about.
What I want to know is it has a slight oil leak at the clutch cover which sounds pretty easy to deal with according to riflemans write up but I think the main case on the clutch side is also leaking along the front, how much of a hassle is that gasket to replace and it also looked like there might have been a little coolant coming from the weep hole below the water pump. Is that probably the water pump seal? How big of a deal is that?
And I think that it still has the stock master cylinder running the 6 pots, thats not a good idea is it?
I will do a search on this stuff also, I just was hoping for some basic info to help make a decision in the next couple of days.
Oh and what about cold start up, it was in the low 40's today and he had to crank on it pretty good to get it lit and then it died 2 or 3 times is that normal? When you guys start your bikes do you give it any throttle? My 01 SVS would have to crank a bit if I didn't give it any gas but it was not EFI either.
 

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Clutch cover gasket is a rubber type gasket - easy fix.
Sounds like water pump seal needs replacing - another easy fix.
Search for the on-line manual :thumbup
If you have 6 pots and stainless lines, best to run a 5/8 master cylinder, off the TLR or Busa

:)
 

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Water pump seal, allow about 2-3 hours first time you have done the job, clutch cover is easy, as long as you torque the bolts up with the correct tools, you may need some hermatite too
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Water pump seal, allow about 2-3 hours first time you have done the job, clutch cover is easy, as long as you torque the bolts up with the correct tools, you may need some hermatite too
What the bejeezus is hermatite???
Thanks for the replies I had searched after I posted and it all sounded pretty easy. I know I would also want to do the relocation of the temp switch, it was still in the radiator.
Oh, and correct me if I'm wrong but the 97 even with the replacement ECU does not have the timing retard circut, right?
 

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...and if you think the 97's are problems...well...my experience shows otherwise.

I've got mine stripped down right now, and did the tps and throttle body synch this weekend after checking the valves.

last maintenance was done at 21k miles, currently has 46k miles. valves were all w/in spec, but changed 3 on the front cylinder to get more optimal.

tps was spot on, throttle bodies were SLIGHTLY out of synch.


with graves cover there's not leak on the clutch side, and never had any coolant leak from output shaft.

basically, even at nearly 50k miles, the motor is still running like a swiss watch, and the chassis is easy to improve...though not particularly cheap.


I was actually hoping there was lots of improvement in there...but the custom dyno tune should help.
 

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thanks, number of 97S people had problems, looked into it and found out what can be done.
 

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I've got almost 50k miles on my '97 S and it runs better now than it did new:)

I haven't even had to adjust valves yet. Only problems have been clutch slippage at 7k miles, easily fixed with stiffer springs and a wp leak at 30k miles and again at 47k miles. Waterpump seal and all related parts/gaskets/seals runs ~$65 IIRC and is really easy to replace. scraping the old gasket off took longer than anything else

have fun
 

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I've got almost 50k miles on my '97 S and it runs better now than it did new:)

I haven't even had to adjust valves yet. Only problems have been clutch slippage at 7k miles, easily fixed with stiffer springs and a wp leak at 30k miles and again at 47k miles. Waterpump seal and all related parts/gaskets/seals runs ~$65 IIRC and is really easy to replace. scraping the old gasket off took longer than anything else

have fun
get in there and check those valves! I found 3 on the front that were on the tight end of spec that could be adjusted.


yea, it's probably wasted time and effort, but after this winter I want the TL to be in abosolutely tip top shape :)

picked up HH pads this weekend for the 4 pistons...I'd send you the pads that came out of the stockers, but they were kinda stuck in there as they've been sitting on the shelf since 2000....calipers DEFINATELY will get rebuilt :)
 
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