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I got some new J&E pistons today. These are the SRP style which are much lighter than the older style. The 100mm bore gives 1036cc and at 368 grams are about 20 grams lighter than the old style 98mm bore pistons. The top ringland is hard andodized and ground to a tighter spec than before. Less ring flutter, no micro welding, and longer life is the result. This comes from Nascar. They come with a thermal barrier coated crown and dry film skirt coating direct from J&E. I have a extra set.
 

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can u post picture of the coating on the crown and the skirt?
 

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cost on the extra set? :devious
 

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:confused not to hijack your thread but this is along the same lines. just how big a overbore can you go on the tl motor? i know tlmonkey has a set of half finished mega bore barrels or some such that i have read about. one of the next thing i plan on doing to my TLR is a motor rebuild maybe this next winter and i am wanting the to get the most displacement possible without having to shell out 3K+ for a billet stroker crank. what kinda gains can you expect from a 1036 rebuild assuming a good shop set squish, valve job, etc?

either way sounds like a nice score there. sooo what you planning on doing with that other set?:devious
 

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Riddick has an overbore kit, along with a few other goodies. Why not shoot him a PM and maybe he can provide some additional info.?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
what kinda gains can you expect from a 1036 rebuild assuming a good shop set squish, valve job, etc?

either way sounds like a nice score there. sooo what you planning on doing with that other set?:devious[/QUOTE]

The path to 135 to 140hp and 80lbs+ is well traveled. The building blocks are displacment,compression,cam timing and lift. These pistons with more cam lift and duration will out do a stock motor everywhere in the rpm range. My bike will run with ZX-10s, R-1s and 1kGSXERS,. A stock frame bike will get close, and the wheelies are out of control! Pm about the extra set.
 

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Who? me?

BIG BORE:drool
JE pistons
Wrist pins
Cyl bore and rechrome
Port/Polish and flowed heads
Web adj. cams 189 grind (Degreed in)
Ferrera SS valves No 5 point grind (too much maintenance).
Full race Yosh
1037cc
at 5,280 feet 130 rwhp @ 81foot pounds torque
I went from 118? to 130 with the 1037 big bore.
You will probably see higher gains at a lower elevation.
Jim Brewer was getting low 140's with the addition of the lightened crank and some injector work.

 

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:drool I could live with 130 ...
BIG BORE:drool
JE pistons
Wrist pins
Cyl bore and rechrome
Port/Polish and flowed heads
Web adj. cams 189 grind (Degreed in)
Ferrera SS valves No 5 point grind (too much maintenance).
Full race Yosh
1037cc
at 5,280 feet 130 rwhp @ 81foot pounds torque
I went from 118? to 130 with the 1037 big bore.
You will probably see higher gains at a lower elevation.
Jim Brewer was getting low 140's with the addition of the lightened crank and some injector work.

 

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so not too beat a dead horse here but what exactly is the biggest bore kit made for our bikes? im not sure but i seem to recall something about a 1140 kit, or am i just wishful thinking.
 

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Holy crap thats some nice power. Definately something to do if i find a spare motor on egay :D
 

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:confused not to hijack your thread but this is along the same lines. just how big a overbore can you go on the tl motor? i know tlmonkey has a set of half finished mega bore barrels or some such that i have read about. one of the next thing i plan on doing to my TLR is a motor rebuild maybe this next winter and i am wanting the to get the most displacement possible without having to shell out 3K+ for a billet stroker crank. what kinda gains can you expect from a 1036 rebuild assuming a good shop set squish, valve job, etc?

either way sounds like a nice score there. sooo what you planning on doing with that other set?:devious
Terry Shepherd will go no further to 100mm bore to leave enough heatsink.
I'd prefer 103mm to go to 1100cc's. I'll need 'wet' sleeves for that. Don't know yet how i'm going to do that exactly, but I'm putting a cunning plan together. First I'll have to get me a spare engine, cylinders or a complete bike.

I would't want such a project ruin my track days next season...
 

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Terry Shepherd will go no further to 100mm bore to leave enough heatsink.
I'd prefer 103mm to go to 1100cc's. I'll need 'wet' sleeves for that. Don't know yet how i'm going to do that exactly, but I'm putting a cunning plan together. First I'll have to get me a spare engine, cylinders or a complete bike.

I would't want such a project ruin my track days next season...
According to r.sheppo the race tlr engine i bought off/through him came with 101mm(1060cc) pistons fitted,which are now in my raptor engine.
 

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You just got lucky. I bet mr. Sheppo tried a lot of options to get more power from the beast and improve the whole bike.

He ended up with a whole new bike with a few suzuki parts as far as I can see it.
 

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I got some new J&E pistons today. These are the SRP style which are much lighter than the older style. The 100mm bore gives 1036cc and at 368 grams are about 20 grams lighter than the old style 98mm bore pistons. The top ringland is hard andodized and ground to a tighter spec than before. Less ring flutter, no micro welding, and longer life is the result. This comes from Nascar. They come with a thermal barrier coated crown and dry film skirt coating direct from J&E. I have a extra set.
for those who dont know. art puts quite the motor together. he assembled my 97 motor which has run 1600 miles now trouble free and turns 10.50s at 130 at 3000 ft density altitude all day long.

some delivery shots...



i was at the foundry where these pistons were forged just a few weeks ago. APP in santa ana. gnarly place to work.




:drool



huge 20 to 40 inch diameter pistons squashing helpless billets of aluminum into huge heated molds, blamo...

very nice art. cant wait to here how it comes out. im about to uncork the TL and head back to the dyno shop.
im betting ill register that 135 with my tiny cans off...

what do you think?

these made 130...

these are going on
 

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Proceed... you're doing a fine job lad.
 
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