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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some of you will be aware I've had a busted up TLR languishing in my shed for a few years. Finally the stars are aligned! I have plenty of time now, and procured the funds by building and selling a few chainsaws out of parts I've collected over the years. Here is the canvas:

Jaysus madam, your arse is enormous:dowhat
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Discussion Starter #3
The bike came off remarkably well for a 100kph crash. The rider ended up unconcious laying across the railway tracks, after sliding between the two uprights (old railway tracks concreted into the ground:coocoo, less the 3m apart) of a sign with the station name on it.. He was lucky someone heard the crash and called the emergency services, who then had the train stopped (it was due in 5mins.).

It was caused by the R clip coming out of the pad retention pin on front left caliper, then the pin worked its way out enough to let one pad slip forward and lock the front wheel!

I have now changed to split pins, same as the Bandits and Gixxers had on the older style (Tokico?) calipers.

Now the history is out of the way, I'll take some more pics. and get on with the build thread!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just had a setback - i got the bearings out of the freezer,and was just about to put some heat into the swingarm, and noticed a hairline crack:banghead. If we had a cat I'd kick it.

I am looking at getting it repaired - the biggest problem with that is keeping the recess the same for the bearings. There seems to be room between the frame and the arm to weld a small piece of reinforcing in there - it is pretty thin on the needle roller side:O

If it doesnt work I may look at something like this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/suspension/auction-727502054.htm

Though, with a wheel that will be 1/3 my build budjet...
 

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Bugger ! Go and kick the neighbors cat instead Jimmy .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cats are all safe:) I took it around to my mate 2 hrs ago, and he turned up an hour later with it all welded beautifully. I cleaned it inside and out with a dremel, and will insert the bearings tomorrow - and continue building my monstrosity....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did do a few things tonight though:

Cleaned..

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Drilled..(I have 10mm spacers to weld into the underside of the top plate)

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Wow, nice job on the engine and frame, was the engine in good condition before you cleaned it, I just couldn't et mine anywhere near that nice, it was like my metal in the cases were discoloured (prob from the salt they put on the roads here in the winter :rant ) Looking forward to seeing it come together :eatcorn
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cheers for the positive feedback - it's nice to know people are interested in what I'm up to:) I'll have more pics when the camera is recharged....

Wow, nice job on the engine and frame, was the engine in good condition before you cleaned it, I just couldn't et mine anywhere near that nice, it was like my metal in the cases were discoloured (prob from the salt they put on the roads here in the winter :rant ) Looking forward to seeing it come together :eatcorn
From what I hear that salt is a nightmare - I guess there is not much you can do about it if you are a year-round rider:thumbup My bikes will never be pristine - they are ridden way to often, in all weather....but that's how it should be.

The engine was pretty grotty, and still needs a bit more detailing, but I am pleased with the overall result.

I used a heavy duty engine degreaser which is caustic, so it's a case of brush on (I was eyeing up wifeys electric toothbrush for the tight spots;)) and hose straight off with LOTS of water. It really is that simple - I used a paintbrush to apply it to most areas, and a dishwashing brush for the stubborn bits. As you can see it works great on the frame etc, but you wouldn't want to soak it - it'd strip the paint and anodising pretty quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
lets see some photos of the welded swing arm.
At this stage the race/recess interface appears perfect - too small and I imagine it would split leaving more cracks to weld:no - too big and it will 'flog' out over time...

There were actually 2 cracks running parallel. He welded them both, then laid a third weld over the first two. The line you can see is not a crack, it is where the weld over-laid.

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Bugger ! Go and kick the neighbors cat instead Jimmy .
Afraid the neighbours cats stay well away from our place because of this big boy:devious

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Mind you, I wouldn't **** with him either...(he stands over 1/2 meter tall:))

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Having a 'bath' with a couple of the missus's...

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Not a Streetfighter as such, but he still kicks arse:D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry this turned into a bit of a blog. It's my first build thread, and I let myself go off on a tangent. Bare with me, I'm back to the build:)

I was making good progress:

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Until I found this when starting to fit the wiring harness:

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It is the R/H air intake. When compared to the other side, it looks like a worker got carried away with his grinder - it's had a lot more of the weld ground down on this side. C'est la vie.

I had high hopes of installing the engine tonight....now it'll have to be next weekend probably. Not soooo bad though - with a build like this there always heaps of other jobs to get on with, like prepping the tank:

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I am still waiting on a few parts to arrive - headlight mask, shock, extended cables and braided lines, and a set of S/H '98 R1 body-work (At $70 it was nearly $250 LESS for the whole set than the next-cheapest '98 R1 tail piece i could find:banana).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Soldered a 15k resister into the pink wire last night for non-transister, non relay, active TRE. Wish I got the memo on that before I bought transisters and made a couple of SATRE's:laugh

Can anyone tell me if I can use slightly larger diameter (about 1/3 bigger) wire than standard to extend various parts of the loom, for the purpose of hiding all the bits normally covered by the fairing. I have plenty of wire in all colours I've salvaged from broken appliences etc, and would rather use this than buy new stuff.

Also, does anyone have an opinion on welding the crack in the previous post? It appears to have been there for a looong time - most of the weld has been ground off, leaving insufficient to hold. It probably cracked the first time the frame flexed under cornering, 14 years ago:O I don't think it will spread....and I can't see much of a structural issue, but then what would I know???

Informed opinions please - might save me trailoring it around town:)
 

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....
Can anyone tell me if I can use slightly larger diameter (about 1/3 bigger) wire than standard to extend various parts of the loom, for the purpose of hiding all the bits normally covered by the fairing. I have plenty of wire in all colours I've salvaged from broken appliences etc, and would rather use this than buy new stuff.

.....
The larger gauge wire will be fine. Just a little bit of excess weight. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Welding your own clutch? Careful...

Whoops, wrong hole.

Builds coming along. I'll have some more pics soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Got a box of goody's today - a '99 OEM R1 fairing. I'll take the tail, and maybe the front guard, then sell the rest. Here she is 'plonked' in place - the finished product will sit higher in the back, at this stage I'm thinking of following the line of the tank underside:O

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Time for some cardboard cut-outs, grinding, welding and riv-nutting:) I'll shorten the top-front of the tail-piece. This'll be a solo bike so I can lose the pillion bracing, and bring up the seat under-bracing in line with the tails shape.

I'll also re-shape the seat-pan to fit the TLR seat.

Just noticed another kick-up-the-bum from this build..the bloody thing has done less than half the kays of my s, and its forks are mint:O

Left leg

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Right leg

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At least the seals don't leak.
 
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