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Discussion Starter #1
On my 97 TLs, The bike has been running fine without any problems. Just found a little oil leaking out of the weep hole and decided to change the water pump mechanical seal and oil seal.

I drained the oil and on the drain plug appeared to be small silver metal flakes. After removing the right side engine cover, I removed the oil pick up screen and found similar silver metal flakes and dark flakes (looked like black pepper).

I'm not sure of the exact mileage of the bike, somewhere around 13,000 to 14,000 miles. I took some digital pics of the pick-up screen but mistakenly deleted the pics. I'm such doooofus when it comes to camera's :banghead .

Are the metal flakes part of the normal ware? Such as Clutch Plates?

Has anyone had similar metal flake issues?

I researched previous post about this topic but some of the old pics were not available due to age of the posting.

If anyone has some pics of the oil pick up screen or the drain plug with the metal flakes, I would like to compare them with what I found.

I would have taken more pics but I already cleaned the oil pick up screen!:coocoo

Thanks again for all your help! :confused
 

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metal = not normal
I just spun a lower end bearing on my 97 w/ about 15000 mi on it. Afterwards I was reading about the early models having output shaft probs? Not sure on that, but my mechanic said I was leaking oil internally.
 

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my bike was running fine no noise nothing. i sent it in to a dealer for some mods & recieved a call after 3 weeks your bike has sized up (spunn lower end bearings) WTF :mad then six months later had my bike back with some of the mods done & rebuilt engine :banghead

so whether they F*#ked it or the bottom end was on its way out :O who knows.
 

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Use a magnifying glass not that any solids are good.When i stripped the black TLS i found crap on the screen.On close examination it was tiny metal (alloy perhaps) scrolls.I would think from the cases being machined at the factory after they are painted and poor quality control.
I wasn't to impressed with the condition of the con rod bearings which were showing signs of fatigue even at a low mileage.
 

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:stupid

First time I cleaned mine there was a bit of metal too, that was at 30k miles. The bike now has 47k, just checked the screen Sunday and it was all clean:thumbup Unless its big chunks or a lot of metal I wouldn't worry about a few slivers of metal. Its normal to loose a bit of metal off the gears and stuff I think, esp during break-in.

have fun
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ordered the seals & gaskets today!

Thanks for the Info Guys!

I'll put her back together and continue with the big:) this bike brings to my face while riding the twisteeeees?

While I'm putting the engine cover back on is there a simple way to get the bolts torqued correctly. The manual says to torque to 10 Inch Pounds, thats not much and hard to dial in with that low of setting on the torque wrench.

When replacing the engine cover gasket (when I first got the bike) I tried that before with small clicking type torque wrench @ 10 In. Lbs. and couldn't get it to seal correctly.
So I used my Ryobi cordless drill with the adjustable rachet setting. Set it at about 3/4 mark and buttoned everything up tight, no leaks. When pulling the cover off yesterday the old gasket was in good shape with no tears in the gasket from the bolts being tightened with the cordless drill. Just my shadetree mechanic approach to torquing the bolts.

I would like to hear how some of the long time Zoner's have done it.

Thanks again for all your help!
 

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I'd like to clean out my screen but don't know where it's located on the S. What do I need to do to get to it? Is it too hard for a mechanical retard like me?
Thanks.
 

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I use my favorite swivel handle snap on quarter inch ratchet or T-handle and go by feel, but I've been wrenching for a long time and might have slightly better calibrated hands than most. So far I've never stripped or warped anything nor anything leak. I do use a tq wrench for stuff like cylinder heads.

Snap-on and probably other places make quarter inch drive tq wrenches that are very accurate at low torque settings. I'd recomend one, it will pay for itself by saving you the trouble of dealing with problems caused by incorrect torque.


Doug, the screen is located under the right side engine cover (the thing the clutch cover mounts to) and is on the botom left. Its quite large and isn't likely to get clogged, even if neglected for a long time (provided nothing has ever grenaded in your motor). the cover is easy to remove, but you'll disturb the wp seals and probably damage them, I'd just put new ones in any time the engine side cover is off. Given how often wp seals go bad, you might just wait till they need replacement, then replace them and clean the screen at the same time.

have fun
 

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Doug, the screen is located under the right side engine cover (the thing the clutch cover mounts to) and is on the botom left. Its quite large and isn't likely to get clogged, even if neglected for a long time (provided nothing has ever grenaded in your motor). the cover is easy to remove, but you'll disturb the wp seals and probably damage them, I'd just put new ones in any time the engine side cover is off. Given how often wp seals go bad, you might just wait till they need replacement, then replace them and clean the screen at the same time.

have fun
Exactly :thumbup ......... I found the tips of the oil pump gears had seen a little action also so that is something to check on engines that have spun bearings (Only around US$76 last time i looked,for the better TLR pump).

I think the catch is,anything on the screen that looks like flake (Like Chucks pic) is bad,but by the time it is there the bearing has failed .. Game over.
I don't ride the TL until it hits 80 C / 176 F on the readout and try to avoid heavy load for a bit.
It would still be nice to know what kind of oil temp and pressure the TL is running but havn't found a gauge that covered both (digital)
There are some small analog pressure gauges available from HD aftermarket retailers.
One option might be to change the stock oil pressure sensor.I think you can get adjustable Hobb's switchs so the trigger point could be raised for the warning lamp or a screamer (audio).

The GSXR's look to have a seperate WP with just the oil seal in the cover i guess....so much easier to check things without undue replacement parts like the TL.








We can't all be like Steve and have our own Dyno's in the garage :laugh but most other hand tools are obtainable and will pretty much last a life time if looked after.... I am lucky enough to have 4 torque wrenchs (American/British/French) which cover the scale nicely.
 
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