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merge collector or x pipe

6K views 46 replies 13 participants last post by  doug 
#1 ·
here is some pics of the start of making a good X pipe the way it should be done or if you look at just this 1/2 it is how to do a merge collector 2-1. If doing a 2 into 1 I then take a large tube and squeeze it oval then tack weld it to the opening and the heat from the tack allows me to beat it with a hammer to dish the sides so they line up. In this case I will make another of these then but weld them together, just hope there is space to fit it under the TLR. See big tube header for a drawing and dimensions of the X tube.







 
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#2 ·
lookin good so far...I'd like to see this when its done :thumbup
 
#3 ·
Any thoughts on how you're going to keep near equal length pipes while using the "X"? Might get a bit trricky routing things under there.
 
#4 ·
The plan is to have the x pipe on the left side running length wise with it roughly parallel to the lower body work when viewed from the end so it will be tilted in at the bottom about 30 degrees. the top tube will go to the front cylinder and the lower front tube will connect to the the rear cylinder that exits just below the swiingarm and goes straight right then curves forward and down to connect to the front of the X merge. Then the upper rear pipe goes out the left side and the lower rear pipe from the X merge goes under the rear cylinder downpipe and exits on the right side. I think it will work but at this point I am not absolutely certain. The advantage to all this will be better scavaging as both primarys will be going in the same direction and the X merge doubles the area that each primary sees to lower exhaust gas restriction and preliminary measurements indicate it will have eqaul length primarys. Termigoni systems for Ducatis work the same way they just dont have as good an X pipe as it is labour intensive to build.
Hope it all works will find out soon then get it back on the dyno.
 
#5 ·
more pics of the 2-1-2 system as it is being fabricated









2-2 system showing the taper in the header pipe



havent finished the down pipe from the rear cylinder to x and you can see the exit of the right side pipe coming from the x sneaking behind the down pipe of the rear cylinder. So the x pipe will fit and I think the kick stand would even work although being a race bike I dont really care but for those that do it looks okay. Probably will be rotating the x pipe at bit more vertical so the rear cylinder pipe moves a bit more to the left to clear the lower bodywork it is tight.

Bottom pic is of the 2-2 system that I just built then cut it up to reuse the bends and fit in the X pipe to build the 2-1-2 system.
 
#6 ·
Looking good, Doug. Finally and exhaust that has my attention. Y'all going to throw this on a dyno when you're done? :thumbup
 
#7 ·
:stupid
 
#8 ·
Defineately it will go back on the dyno when its done. Hopeing the dyno curve will look like the last one just filled in on the low end and the whole thing shifted upward. But we shall see. Really like the very wide torque curve of the blue line at high rpm.

 
#10 ·
:eatcorn

When do you go into production? Will it fit my Yosh system? Will it use those annoying springs? Will it come in titanium?

... just thought I'd get the questions rolling :Laugh

:stupid...
 
#15 ·
I wish I had a tig but have to make do with a Mig for the time being so it doesnt look really pretty but when its ground and painted black or ceramic coated it won't matter. Besides its a race bike this is strictly a case of function over beauty.
 
#19 ·
question for the welding experts, if one was welding stainless in tig and the wall thickness was .035 how low do you need to go in current on the machine so you dont blow holes in it. 10 amps low enough or does it need to go lower.
 
#20 ·
10 amps should be low enough for straight DC-.

If you have problems, switch to AC. That will cut your heating current in half and space out your heat cycles, like pulsing DC. The positive portion of your AC wave cleans your work/heats your electrode, your negative portion heats your work.

My advice is to get an AC/DC machine. A DC machine will be a lot cheaper, but you will like having the AC option for sheet AL. An EconoTIG is a cheap machine and there are many available. It will weld 18 gauge stainless on AC, you will be hard pressed to do it on DC without some sort of heat sink behind your work. A nice tight fitment is what gives you the margin for error. Hit a gap in your fitment and it will blow a hole quick.

If you really want to do some tubing welding, build a small box out of plexiglass and attach some gloves to it. Purge the box and you no longer need to back purge your tubing and you can remove your gas cup on your torch. Gives you a lot more freedom to see and weld.

If you have a lot of money, get a nice inverter AC/DC TIG power supply. The freedom of adjustments pays for itself ten fold.
 
#23 ·
Thanks that is what I needed to know about tig machines as a DC inverter is cheep on Ebay but from what you are describing is fairly useless for what I would want it to do. Will the dc inverter do 16 ga stainless ok and if so how low in current adjustment would one need on the machine.
 
#25 ·
some more progress pics. It does clear race body work not certain about a kick stand for the street might have to be modified. So as far as a race bike goes a 2-1-2 big tube 2 1/4" header can be done. Preliminarey measurements on primary lengths are 24" front cylinder and 36" on the rear cylinder which is 1/2 wavelength greater than the front so that should in theory be good.





latest in pipe making techniques this is gixxer160

 
#27 ·
lookin good man :hail
 
#33 ·
The flanges are from a stocker and the tubing is an adapter from Canadian tire cut in half, the flanges have to be machined out. Also the adapters are aluminized so they are a pain to weld but they can be done if you can get stainless tube in the OD size to fit over the pipes you would be better off.
 
#37 ·
Thanks for the input the cheap inverters I see on ebay will not do what I would like so I will wait. Looks like the deluxe Chinese import ac/dc boxes at about $1000.00 are the way to go. I was hoping the $300.00 box would at least do thin stainless but it appears that pulse dc or a/c is the thing then as well I could do aluminum which would be good.
 
#38 ·
Here is a pic of the pipe mocked up prior to welding, shows where the bends go to get it in. The system has to have a slip coupling on at least one of the pipes going up to the cans preferably the left side or you cannot install the header on the bike. Most likely 3 slip couplings would make it simpler 1 in the straight section under the motor and 1 each on the mid pipes like a Yosh system. Started it up although it leaks like a sieve as it is just tacked together but the sound is significantly different from the 2-2 system which is what I suspected would happen, lost the harsh high pitched note much more bassier sound now although it is still loud.

 
#40 ·
lookin sweet :thumbup

are you gonna wrap the final pipe or maybe jet-hot or leave it as-is? :O
 
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