TLZone Forums banner
1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
here is some pics of the start of making a good X pipe the way it should be done or if you look at just this 1/2 it is how to do a merge collector 2-1. If doing a 2 into 1 I then take a large tube and squeeze it oval then tack weld it to the opening and the heat from the tack allows me to beat it with a hammer to dish the sides so they line up. In this case I will make another of these then but weld them together, just hope there is space to fit it under the TLR. See big tube header for a drawing and dimensions of the X tube.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,379 Posts
lookin good so far...I'd like to see this when its done :thumbup
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,251 Posts
Any thoughts on how you're going to keep near equal length pipes while using the "X"? Might get a bit trricky routing things under there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any thoughts on how you're going to keep near equal length pipes while using the "X"? Might get a bit trricky routing things under there.
The plan is to have the x pipe on the left side running length wise with it roughly parallel to the lower body work when viewed from the end so it will be tilted in at the bottom about 30 degrees. the top tube will go to the front cylinder and the lower front tube will connect to the the rear cylinder that exits just below the swiingarm and goes straight right then curves forward and down to connect to the front of the X merge. Then the upper rear pipe goes out the left side and the lower rear pipe from the X merge goes under the rear cylinder downpipe and exits on the right side. I think it will work but at this point I am not absolutely certain. The advantage to all this will be better scavaging as both primarys will be going in the same direction and the X merge doubles the area that each primary sees to lower exhaust gas restriction and preliminary measurements indicate it will have eqaul length primarys. Termigoni systems for Ducatis work the same way they just dont have as good an X pipe as it is labour intensive to build.
Hope it all works will find out soon then get it back on the dyno.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
more pics of the 2-1-2 system as it is being fabricated









2-2 system showing the taper in the header pipe



havent finished the down pipe from the rear cylinder to x and you can see the exit of the right side pipe coming from the x sneaking behind the down pipe of the rear cylinder. So the x pipe will fit and I think the kick stand would even work although being a race bike I dont really care but for those that do it looks okay. Probably will be rotating the x pipe at bit more vertical so the rear cylinder pipe moves a bit more to the left to clear the lower bodywork it is tight.

Bottom pic is of the 2-2 system that I just built then cut it up to reuse the bends and fit in the X pipe to build the 2-1-2 system.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,251 Posts
Looking good, Doug. Finally and exhaust that has my attention. Y'all going to throw this on a dyno when you're done? :thumbup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,379 Posts
:stupid
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Defineately it will go back on the dyno when its done. Hopeing the dyno curve will look like the last one just filled in on the low end and the whole thing shifted upward. But we shall see. Really like the very wide torque curve of the blue line at high rpm.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,918 Posts
:eatcorn

When do you go into production? Will it fit my Yosh system? Will it use those annoying springs? Will it come in titanium?

... just thought I'd get the questions rolling :laugh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,001 Posts
:eatcorn

When do you go into production? Will it fit my Yosh system? Will it use those annoying springs? Will it come in titanium?

... just thought I'd get the questions rolling :Laugh

:stupid...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
:eatcorn

When do you go into production? Will it fit my Yosh system? Will it use those annoying springs? Will it come in titanium?

... just thought I'd get the questions rolling :laugh
Not a hope

No

Only if you pay me 1 million dollars
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Doug has no plans to reproduce this exhaust system. It is strickley a one off. It is quite time consuming and the cost of lightweight stainless or even titanium is just too prohibative. Sorry guy's. However if it should come about. TLzone will be the first to know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I wish I had a tig but have to make do with a Mig for the time being so it doesnt look really pretty but when its ground and painted black or ceramic coated it won't matter. Besides its a race bike this is strictly a case of function over beauty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not on aluminized ERW as that cross over section looks to be.
Yes and its a royal pain in the butt to use but I couldnt source mild steel that was not aluminized for the staight tube locally. The cost so far just in mild steel materials is about 200.00 and this is using a stock header for flanges would be over double in thin wall stainless plus it takes about 30 hours to cut and tack weld the pieces, sort of like building a 3 dimensional jig saw puzzle. Hate to think what the cost of materials would be in Titanium. Probably why Termigoni charges 3500.00 for the Ducati 57mm system and that is doing it in production.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,899 Posts
Yes and its a royal pain in the butt to use but I couldnt source mild steel that was not aluminized for the staight tube locally. The cost so far just in mild steel materials is about 200.00 and this is using a stock header for flanges would be over double in thin wall stainless plus it takes about 30 hours to cut and tack weld the pieces, sort of like building a 3 dimensional jig saw puzzle. Hate to think what the cost of materials would be in Titanium. Probably why Termigoni charges 3500.00 for the Ducati 57mm system and that is doing it in production.
I get around the aluminized mild steel thing by going direct to the tube benders since they are buying it in bulk for their needs.
Same with stainless steel bends,straight to the source (same place here) and they have a scrap bin that any mistakes are thrown into so budget shopping to be had.
Once you start with stainless you have the added work of having to purge everthing etc etc.
I never posted much because there was never much interest in fabrication.
Low tech tapered S/S header attached.

You can cheat a little if you mill some of the parts like the 6 piece 2 ino 1 collector.All comes down to fit up and stainless steel is a little unforgiving.

If you are not using tacking bands to set up the joints already,they help alot.

Keep up the good work :thumbup ..Only those who have done it can truely appreciate the time and effort involved.











.

I had more pics of this system but had them on floppy discs which would not open (format or something) so threw them away only to be told one day it was because i had changed computers :lol not
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
question for the welding experts, if one was welding stainless in tig and the wall thickness was .035 how low do you need to go in current on the machine so you dont blow holes in it. 10 amps low enough or does it need to go lower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,825 Posts
10 amps should be low enough for straight DC-.

If you have problems, switch to AC. That will cut your heating current in half and space out your heat cycles, like pulsing DC. The positive portion of your AC wave cleans your work/heats your electrode, your negative portion heats your work.

My advice is to get an AC/DC machine. A DC machine will be a lot cheaper, but you will like having the AC option for sheet AL. An EconoTIG is a cheap machine and there are many available. It will weld 18 gauge stainless on AC, you will be hard pressed to do it on DC without some sort of heat sink behind your work. A nice tight fitment is what gives you the margin for error. Hit a gap in your fitment and it will blow a hole quick.

If you really want to do some tubing welding, build a small box out of plexiglass and attach some gloves to it. Purge the box and you no longer need to back purge your tubing and you can remove your gas cup on your torch. Gives you a lot more freedom to see and weld.

If you have a lot of money, get a nice inverter AC/DC TIG power supply. The freedom of adjustments pays for itself ten fold.
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top