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Discussion Starter #1
I've recently bought a TL1000r which has a power commander and racing cans. Occasionally at very low speed (less than 5 miles an hour) the engine stalls. At the speed that it happens the engine locks the back wheel and only very nifty clutch work has stopped me from dropping the bike. I've heard that the fuel injection system is a bit primitive but surely not this bad? Anyone got any ideas?
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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Ride the clutch.

I doubt you'll get any bike to ride at less than 5mph with the clutch out without playing and stalling. I'd be clutching and blipping at anything under 15mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No you misunderstand me - pulling away from lights this morning and the bike was accelerating quite normally. I wasn't ranting - just pulling away normally for in town when suddenly, bang, it stalled and locked up. I was about 20 yards away from the lights by then and if it was down to not blipping the throttle or slipping the clutch it would have happened just as soon as I got the bike rolling. Never had anything like this on my z1000 ever.
 

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It could be crap fuel mapping or perhaps you just aren't used to a twin and are not giving it enough rpms on take-off:O A twin requires a bit more care than an I-4 at lower rpms and will stall much more easily.

Is the bike stock? Has the usual maintenance been kept up? (valve adjustments, tps setting, tb sync, plugs etc?)
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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:stupid

I did misunderstqnd you, but it still sounds like the nature of the beast. More revs.
 

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My R does not like the low speeds. Just one of those things you get used to.
 

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I can usually ride 2000-2500 rpms down then it gets crappy. To start I have to be at like atleast 3 grand if im clutching it, 4 grand seems like the magic number for take offs.
 

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stalling

If your used to riding fours.A lot of twins twins can feel a bit jerky and snatchy whilst riding round town. Just how it is.
 

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My 98 TLS does the same thing at low RPM, a little embarassing at times. I always rode 2 strokes and had to rev them, then I got the TL and thought it should be lugged. It needs revs to take off and it doesn't like being under 3000 rpm at any time. Happy riding.
 

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My tiller had the same problem BAD for a while.

It's my first twin from a 4 cyl sewing machine and so one factor was that I had to get used to it.

Second - I found that my clutch was engaging at SLIGHTLY different times - killing it.
$90 later and a new Clutch Slave Cylinder later, its VERY smooth again. My Tiller had ~35K miles on it and the Slave Cyl that came on it had the rubber cover the clutch release shaft goes through gone - found that out when I downloaded the manual, checked it out and when I got the new part.

Without that rubber cover - all the chain crap got in between the piston and the cylinder and the walls and was sticking it up.


At the same time, I replaced all the springs with Barnett springs for about $40 from an online supplier. Better springs will give better clutch engagement control. Wtih 35K miles without a history - thought a change out wouldn't hurt.

I had BAD oil leak seals from that cover since it warped from engine heat but did a solid no-cost fix to get it to completely seal with out half a tube of silicone sealer and it worked perfect. Contact me if you have the same happen.

Lately, my wife and I have been going out 2-up and I've found 2-up is giving me better clutch control and engagement practice.
 

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glad i'm not the only one thats doing this then, :) i only tend to stall it once a day now lol must be slowly getting used to it.
 

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I have the same problem and as its already been said but i have to agree its the nature of the beast, im constantly using the clutch at low speed while all the 4 s are nt but you get used to it. More revs dude
 
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