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Hey all,
Somethin i wanna know, ive noticed when im goin less than 10mph i have to slip the clutch a little to keep it nice and smooth whilst cornering. Could it need the ECU remapping to smooth it out at lower speeds or am i doing something wrong?

Tar
 

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i've noticed the same deal too. and i was thinking the same thing.
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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Sounds normal.

I had my normal idle at 1400-1500rpm, and when playing I had the fast idle lever pulled back for a 2000rpm idle. It fixed that up, sometimes for a slow round-about or something I'd drag the rear brake a touch.

It helped with that stuff, also made the off-on throttle transition a lot smoother. I would have run a 2000rpm idle permanently but it was too fast for around town or when in stop start conditions.
 

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chain tension is important too. if it gets a bit loose you get chain snatch.

I've had the loan of an rsv-r and it was an absolute pig at slow speeds. then I reallised it had about 3in of slack in the chain.:doh
 

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Sounds normal.

I had my normal idle at 1400-1500rpm, and when playing I had the fast idle lever pulled back for a 2000rpm idle. It fixed that up, sometimes for a slow round-about or something I'd drag the rear brake a touch.

It helped with that stuff, also made the off-on throttle transition a lot smoother. I would have run a 2000rpm idle permanently but it was too fast for around town or when in stop start conditions.
:stupid Those are some good tips for sure :thumbup
Mine still stumbles down low even with a Tre and PC2.
 

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Gas it then feather the clutch to keep it smooth ... and keep your fingers away from the front brake :yes commitment is key ;)
Actually, important thing is to be on the gas to take the 'slack' up BEFORE you even get into the corner and well off the brake :yes ...

... IMHO ... :dowhat
 

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i find that slipping the clutch, dragging the rear brake a little and keeping the throttle constant(about 1700, so not to much, or to little) will help with any slow speed manoeuvres, i used to teach this to my student when i was instructing too, it works really well.

also if you drag the rear brake a little as you set off, and release once you have both feet on the footpegs, it will also reduce the amount the chain snags, therefore reducing wear on the chain and sprockets, a bit more wear on the rear brake pads, but they are cheaper to replace.
 

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If you don't need to wheelie out of the corner just leave it in 2nd. Nice and smooth.

What you bike won't wheelie in 2nd?:confused
 

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Who goes slow around corners?:confused
 

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And if you really want to make a massive improvement in low-speed maneuverability, replace the stock steering dmaper with a hyperpro.
 

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And if you really want to make a massive improvement in low-speed maneuverability, replace the stock steering dmaper with a hyperpro.
Better yet, buy my old Hyperpro which has almost zero damping left and see your steering speed up. Third old style Hyperpro I've had which has turned to junk. Tell me the new style is better?
 

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I tell you what - just got back from riding to work through the mountains ... new forks in, OK OEM forks with Racetech internals and spring IIRC and it's like a whole new bike - I rode of the RHS of the tyre (finally scuffed the little Michelin guy! :doug) and could feel everything that was going on. Low speed corners - same deal.
Decent suspension = more confidence :yes
Just rail it around the corners like it's a scooter :D
 
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