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Discussion Starter #1
Hi people
I’ll get straight to it. Riding my TLR yesterday, she was feeling a little weak. Then she cut out altogether but then suddenly carried on like there was no problem. Then it felt like only one cylinder was firing, then back to normal. Then the clocks stopped working, but if I turned the lights off they cracked back up again!! I got the bike home, turned off ignition, then she wouldn’t turn over, just seemed to buzz at the starter. I love this old cow, but the issues are seeming to build!!! The battery is fairly new (AGM) and seemed fine. The bike has cut off on me before, a few months back, but just a split second with no issues till yesterday. Any ideas folks?
 

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It's possible that a few of the electrical connections are beginning to corrode and become resistive. That's not uncommon in your wonderful British climate.

A few preliminary things you can look at....
The most common problem areas are the gang connectors for the left and right switch pods (yellow, and black, respectively), and the large white gang connector between the front and rear looms.

It also sounds like your battery is not charging properly. Therefore, closely inspect the connector on the wires coming from the stator to the regulator. Also verify the path from the regulator to the battery. Also connect a meter across your battery. The R/R should put out ~14 volts at the battery at 5000 RPM.

Also remove the loom connector from the starter relay and closely examine the wires and terminals. Look for evidence of overheating as in burnt wires or melted housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mate. I thought it was more likely a loose or bad connection somewhere due to the on off nature of the fault initially, but then when the power was so low so as to stop the clocks, I thought it might have been a lack of charge to the battery ie stator/rectifier prob. But my knowledge is nigh on useless! As to the weather, ha ha, you are spot on. So friggin humid and wet dank shite awful. I’ll look at those things mate, I’ll keep ya posted, thanks very much for the feedback.
 

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Look at the photo in this thread, Charging issue, thank you. I was having a charging issue as well. I had to wiggle the wire a bit, not much, to find that it was completely burned from the physical plug. That's the connector from the stator to the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I’ll check that out mate, thanks. I take it that’s under the seat?!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, can’t find any knackered wiring, very messy, but not bust! Voltage at the battery is 12.7 base. At 2000rpm it climbs to 13.2 and goes no higher up the revs! Doesn’t seem right to me, surely it should be higher? Got a new regulator on the way, not that I expect any improvement from that. Any ideas? Stator/alternator? FFS!!! Gotta fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just had a look at the R/R, and the 2 black- 2 red are still connected to the OEM white/clear 4pin connector. Looking at the mod pics on here, I take it that means it’s running OEM still? There’s no double black or red link from R/R to the battery. 🤔
 

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.... Voltage at the battery is 12.7 base. At 2000rpm it climbs to 13.2 and goes no higher up the revs! ..... Got a new regulator on the way, .....

Just had a look at the R/R, and the 2 black- 2 red are still connected to the OEM white/clear 4pin connector. Looking at the mod pics on here, I take it that means it’s running OEM still? There’s no double black or red link from R/R to the battery. 🤔

Your measurements and visual inspection seem to indicate that it is still in the OEM configuration. If so, the voltage numbers are not that unusual.

Still, your original post, where you noted an interaction between the headlights and the instruments, seems to point toward a charging problem that may be intermittent. If the charging system is truly putting out a consistent 13.2 volts, this in itself would not cause the symptoms you listed.

..... Then she cut out altogether but then suddenly carried on like there was no problem. Then it felt like only one cylinder was firing, then back to normal. Then the clocks stopped working, but if I turned the lights off they cracked back up again!! I got the bike home, turned off ignition, then she wouldn’t turn over, just seemed to buzz at the starter. ..... The bike has cut off on me before, a few months back,.....
However, it is also possible that a connection is failing with increased temperature or vibration.

If it were mine, there are four things I would do to begin the search.

1> Read through the Charging System Diagnostic thread and test the components to verify that they are performing properly.
Definitive Charging System Diagnostic & Upgrade Thread

BTW, what sort of "new regulator" did you buy? The OEM SCR variety, or one of the aftermarket MOSFET options?

2> Install a cheap ebay LED voltmeter to monitor the voltage at the battery while the bike is in operation. I did this on my TLR to isolate a charging problem. It was quite handy.

3> Closely inspect the starter relay connector. It is a weak link in the TL's electrical system, and it often causes intermittent problems before it fails completely. Any sign of overheated wires or plastic, or corroded terminals is a problem.

4> Eliminate the single spade connector in the main loom ground wire. It is a problem waiting to happen, and like the starter relay connector, it can cause odd and intermittent behavior of the electrical system. Remove it and solder the two remaining wires together.

Looking forward to your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think you’re right about the intermittent nature of the issue, and that it could be heat/vibration. It cut out on me a few times for a split second and sparked itself back up!! The idea of going through the friggin loom to find a knackered wire seems like hell to me! Your advice is really appreciated mate, I’ll try those suggestion and let you know. Thanks pal.
P.S.
it’s a MOSFET r/r. Is that better?
 
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