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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I purchased my 1999 TL1000s about a year ago and immediately fell in love with it, but now I'm having problems with it. I try starting it and I get a clicking noise at the starter relay. I replaced the starter and the starter relay today and it is still clicking. I jumped the battery after replacing the parts and it still clicks. I really just want to get back on the road, do you guys have any suggestions?
 

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Any fault codes ?
Though that's probably irrelevant for this problem.
Is your battery definately ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I haven't checked for any fault codes yet, but I'm not too sure about the battery, I figured I jumped it from a good battery it was ok but im going to replace the battery tomorrow morning.
 

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OK but its a good start also to bridge the small white connector in the rear to go into dealermode then you get afault codes to help.
Its a white 4 pin connector but only 2 cables going in one red/white and one black/white, just bridge them.
Also it can be hard to find the white connector it has a black rubber boot over it.
 

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OK but its a good start also to bridge the small white connector in the rear to go into dealermode then you get afault codes to help.
Its a white 4 pin connector but only 2 cables going in one red/white and one black/white, just bridge them.
Also it can be hard to find the white connector it has a black rubber boot over it.
My moneys on the battery, 3 times I’ve had that clicking with different bikes and new battery was the solution..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I purchased a new battery and it started firing up which is a great sign, but before it could turn over it stopped like the battery was draining. So I connected it to my jump box and it fired up again and died. Connected it to my car and it fired up again but didn't turn over. It seems to be pulling a lot of power on start up, is that normal? Also I noticed that the power cord going to the starter was warm after I tried firing it up. Is there a way I can get more power so I could get enough time to actually turn over?
 

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You need to do the charge MOD. Otherwise that red wire will eventually melt at the relay. It also has a tendency to prevent the battery from charging during operation. And to answer your question... yes, the TLR takes a lot of juice to turnover. I typically get 4-5 good cranks on a full charge. After that it has to get jumped from the truck. Most of the draw comes from the headlight, which is why we (Americans) typically perform the Headlight MOD & Charging MOD in tandem.


NOTE: Cicking at startup (on a charged battery) is indicative of a loose terminal connector. Only other time it will Click is when the battery is drained. If your battery is clicking on a full charge, then I'd check wires.
 

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Sounds like there's an issue with the starter motor. The jump cables will get warm if you crank the thing for any length of time. There's around 200A going through the motor when it first kicks in. This should reduce once the starter motor starts spinning but its still a pretty heavy draw. I'd suggest checking the cable from the positive connector on the motor back to the starter relay. You might have a short in there somewhere.
 

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which is why we (Americans) typically perform the Headlight MOD & Charging MOD in tandem.
All TLs should do the headlight mod. We add in the circuit to cut while starting, but the headlight wires that run the current for the bulbs are way understaffed for the job...

You know that. Your loom burnt up in the typical spot. That is the case with any TL not just American versions.
 

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...That is the case with any TL not just American versions.
The way I understood it is U.K. models come equipped with a manual light switch from the factory. Am I mistaken?
 

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Ah.... okay, I see our miscommunication now. I was referring to the headlight switch from **battery saving** standpoint, not the **burning wire** standpoint. In that case there's three modifications that should be done (assuming he has an American model).

Thanks for sorting that out.
 

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So I purchased a new battery and it started firing up which is a great sign, but before it could turn over it stopped like the battery was draining. So I connected it to my jump box and it fired up again and died. Connected it to my car and it fired up again but didn't turn over. It seems to be pulling a lot of power on start up, is that normal? Also I noticed that the power cord going to the starter was warm after I tried firing it up. Is there a way I can get more power so I could get enough time to actually turn over?
Fill in your profile with your location. Might stop a little of the bickering on here. :laugh.
Have you put a multimeter on your battery terminals when its running just to see what charge the battery is recieving from the engine when running. This will give you an indication as to whether to do the charging mod. Should nearer 14 volts
 
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