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Discussion Starter #1
Saw the thread about tires but thinking it might be a bit dated since being originally from 2003, what's everyone running today? So when I purchased the bike it had a shinko advance 005 on the rear in like new condition and a very badly worn Pirelli Diablo (can't remember exactly which one) on the front. So I got a matching tire for the front and it was ok for the first summer I owned the bike, but recently I must be getting a little more agressive in the turns and definitely need better, I already had a close call or two spinning the rear slightly in a turn, would be happy getting 2000 miles out of a set, and might give the track a try some day, but for now im all street, and don't ride year round. Only ride in dry weather for the most part

I was looking at a set of battlax rs10, they seem to be the OEM option of alot of higher end machines, good choice? Any ideas that might be better suited for me?
 

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Battlax R11 replaces the r10.

It's all about compromise !
And what you do and need.

My 2 options for street (but you can still do track) are bridgestones S22 and metzellers M9RR.

There are better trackday tires (R11) but that's what they are "track day tires" ,,it don't mean they are better all the time !
It all depends on how much heat you are able to put in the tires !
A cold R11 is not stickier than an S22 or M9RR.

It could be that if you get R11's they will not get hot enough on the street to surpass S22 , M9RR.

Me right now I have the M7RR and will get the M9RR when the time comes.
Because they give the most grip sooner, meaning they worm up fast and easy, that's when I need it most.
The S22 are very close, they are probably just a hair better on track, but at the same time they worm up just a hair slower.

One more thing, The TL has a primitive fuel injection, with no double butterfly or anything, and of course no TC.
Especially in low speed if you are just a bit to aggressive with the throttle it can break traction real easy !
So remember those gaping throttle body's will give you instant power (no ramping), so you are the one charged with dosing them.

So,, bad tires, cold tires,,, dirt, oil,,, instant power,,, have fun man !

Oh I forgot, I had to do 2 panic stops on the M7RR,,, both times the front dug in and saved my bacon !
So I like them :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lots of good info! Thank you, and yeah when I picked the bike up last summer it was just unreal how torquey it is, I still find myself clutching and almost coasting though some really slow turns after I get it moving (like a turn directly from a stop) and yeah definitely afraid of that dirt and gravel, and wet road paint/tar lines, and definitely aside from the tires I am sure the suspension could use adjusted, or at least checked, I've only had the bike a year so it's all kinda new to me, I got pretty good at fixing it, had a bunch of random electrical issues when I got it, but as far as tweaking the suspension I know how to physically do it, but no idea how to know what actually needs to be done, I am sure that would also greatly improve handling as well
 

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Look up Dave Moss for suspension tuning, on youtube...a key ingredient is the sag.

Here is an example of good info on the R11 not being good for steet or normal use, and if you listen good the R10 were terrible for the street.

And finally here you have a review on the metzelers,, Plus read all the comments, they talk about pressures.

Pressure is also a factor against track day tires on the street.
TDT run good HOT and with the right pressure, so doing this on the street ??? how ??

The ones that do this with knowledge, are doing this only to reach the track, and they will be careful until they get there.

With the M9RR you can run normal pressure, get good mileage, good fuel economy, -and- good grip, and if you come across a set of twisties you want to attack, you can tweek the pressure a little to coax a little more traction.
 
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