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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok.

Basically I have managed to break and loss two keys to my 97 tl1000s within one week. I have stripped the front down with the intention of removing the ignition barrel and sending it off so a new set of keys can be cut from the barrel.

BUT. The wiring connector from the ignition barrel into the loom connects underneath the tank. So I can't get the barrel out within lifting the tank and getting to the wiring connector. And I can't lift the tank because it's secured underneath the seat, which is fixed down by the seat lock. Of which I have no key for anymore...:banghead

Any ideas on how to bypass/break into the seat lock? I have a horrible feeling I'm going to have to break something to get it off. :banghead
 

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tailer the bike to a locksmith or get a mobile locksmith?
 

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:stupid
 

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Pop the front pin of the L/H rear cowling,you may have enough room to pop the arm/cable on the seat key unit.It is the forward lever so is hard to get to.

2nd option... You have the R/H fairing off so you should be able to see the green ignition plug though the front hole in the frame (It is zip tied to the brace going inward to cross tube under the airbox)..... If you can not get to it that way,drop the radiator off its mounts and remove the plastic cover behind it (10 mm socket) the plug should be visible.
 

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You can remove the seat on a TLR by 2 x allen bolts under the sides of the seat. The lock is for the passenger seat :dunno Isn't the TLS like that ?

:hail TLR's
Nope, the TLS front seat is secured by a key'd latch just like the hump/back seat, twist the key one way and the front seat comes off, twist it the other way and the back comes off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cheers folks. :)

I traced the wiring from the ignition barrel underneath the tank as far as I could see and it just so happened that it doesn't run directly underneath it...it goes to the right...far enough I could pull the connector through with the ignition switch pulle dout and hugging the headstock.

I am never losing a key ever again. :dozey:

 

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best scenario (<---sp?) is to ditch the system and mod it for no keys and hide the switch. i think i mentioned it before but i'll state it again. i hate fuggin keys:)
 

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just need to make sure it's at least a 20 amp toggle so it doesn't melt down and keep the resistor from inside the stock ignition. just need to solder the resistor in line with the two wires it contacts with the switch in the on mode. it is really not difficult. i will try and post up the pics. in the next couple days. and you can hide the toggle anywhere a length of wire will let you.
 

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screw it i'll do it now. here ya go.......
first things first. drill out the pointed bolt tips under the ignition. they are pretty soft. i used a center punch on the tip then drilled on the drill press. don't need to drill thru the whole way just enough to get the bottom cap off..

 

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here is the wiring assembly. note the location of the resistor and unsolder it because you will reuse it

 

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now cut off the green harness plug (on the bike side not the switch you took off) and attach wires according to the pic. you should be fine. as far as the new toggle switch..... locate the power wire (that runs to the ignition switch not sure where it runs on the TLS but it is the red wire you see in the photo but if you want to place the toggle in the tail of the bike it may change to a red/white or white/red further back sorry i don't have a pic of that for ya) and where it is closest to where you want your toggle, splice into it and run your toggle in line with the wire. hope this helps and good luck...oh yea as fas as the gas cap goes. get a vortex or similar style that only has a screw on cap. much cleaner and no friggin keys to mess with... however the cap isn't attached and can be lost in georgia on the highway if sat on your seat while filling up while trailering from pennsylavania to florida for bike week. not that i have done it :O but my brother had....to my bike!:coocoo

 

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Do you have both parts of one of the broken keys?

If you send them to me I should be able to get it replaced for you within a few days and give you the key code (for about £5).

If you are interested PM me and I'll send you my address.
 
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