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Discussion Starter #1
Well I was worried about the KTM motor health and read up on the internet about leakdown testing and such. I was curious what was wrong with it. Ran fine, smokes a bit on start up. Pops more than usual. Anyway, so since some fella did a how to, I made my own leakdown tester. Cost nearly $40.00 cause I also bought a compression tester for the plug adapters. Anyway, first attempt yielded 9% leakdown. Not what I wanted, but I was leaking intake and exhaust, I was at TDC cause on the KTM you pin the crank to check the valves, nice little touch. Anyway, I found all 4 valves were way tight. I adjusted them to spec and then the leakdown showed 4-5% leakdown, telling me Mr. KTM isn't failing miserably, and I also ended up with 2 new tools! Woo Hoo! Great fun for all!

Here is the leakdown tester in action, first is before the valve adjust and then after, it is so much fun I may do the TLS and SV for fun. Woo Hoo!



 

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:thumbup

My KTM doesn't have valves, but I just did my first top end rebuild this past week. It was a tad frustrating the first time around and that's the deepest I've ever been into any engine, but I got it all done and she's a damn beast now! :)
 

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Sweet:thumbup Race motors like the KTM RFS and its competiton from Japan are known for frequent valve adjustment requirements. Just part of the game. A lot of MX guys check the valve clearances every couple races. Also, tight valves tend to make them hard to start, which can be a clue that you've not checked often enough:)
 

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BikePilot said:
Also, tight valves tend to make them hard to start, which can be a clue that you've not checked often enough:)
Doug, your pit bitches will thank you for doing this maintenance I'm sure. :thumbup
 

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I was thinking just that:spit
 

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Does the KTM have Ti valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have no idea if they are Ti valves, but you never know.

Oh yeah, it starts much better, I can do the valves on the KTM in about an hour, and it will be like 30 minutes after I do it after every time I ride. I only did two rides between checks, so that will give me some fun stuff to do in the gap between track days. Also I found the NGK plugs for the KTM at O'Reilly's for $2.19 each! Woo Hoo! Stinking Cyclegear was out, lucky me.

I enjoy the work, I just took it out and rode it around the block, and it runs great, starts fine. I should have known the other day when it took 4 million kicks to start, honest, 4 million, I was tired and my foot was sore. Yea, that's the ticket! :lol
 

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Sweet:thumbup

It probably has Ti valves, all the race MX thumpers do.

have fun:banana
 

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$2.19, you suck. My old KTM uses a sparkplug that no one carries except the KTM dealer and a few online places. $17 at the KTM dealer, $11 most online places with $6 shipping. :banghead

I did have rockymountainatv.com toss a new one in my box with my rebuild kit though.
 

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If it does have Ti valves, you may want to look into getting some stainless down the road. Some of the Motard guys I know switch over because they require a lot less maint.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ryno said:
If it does have Ti valves, you may want to look into getting some stainless down the road. Some of the Motard guys I know switch over because they require a lot less maint.
Ahh but half the fun of the bike is the ritual of maintenance........I love it, why would I reduce it? It keeps the TLS mostly stock :devious



 

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gixxerjasen said:
$2.19, you suck. My old KTM uses a sparkplug that no one carries except the KTM dealer and a few online places. $17 at the KTM dealer, $11 most online places with $6 shipping. :banghead

I did have rockymountainatv.com toss a new one in my box with my rebuild kit though.
Jasen, chances are it would be just as happy with a B8EG or ES (the EG has a finer electrode and won't foul as easily).

have fun
 

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Those would be a suitable replacement for a BR8ECM?
 

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:yes If you want to stick with a resistor plug use the BR8Exx the stuff after the last "E" just denotes the electrode design. S is standard, IX is irridium, G is fine electrode (though not as fine as irridium) etc...

The only thing I can think of to check is that the piston doesn't touch the ground electrode on the new plug, the "CM" is a low profile standard type plug. I'm pretty sure there's room for a normal electrode in there as two strokes run pretty low compression raitos and I've known folks with KTM's which were supposed to have the CM plug who ran ES or EG's or EIX's without trouble. If it were me I'd give it a shot, crank the motor over slowly by hand and pull the plug to make sure the piston didn't close the gap any - assuming it didn't I'd run the new plug. Not only will it be cheeper but it won't foul as easily as its less sheilded.

have fun
 
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