You can handle a throttle body sync and plus and charging mod. I'm in GA but near the north border. I can help you through it and once I put my bike back together maybe I'll ride to you in the future!!
Its been a while....
I have been running rich i believe. my plugs will last about 6k miles at the absolute most.
I want to say i can do the tb sync myself but im afraid ill screw it up.
I just recently put new plugs in and she ran Beautifully for 30 miles, then the FI light popped on and she started to bog. Now she feels really sluggish and sounds like its getting too much gas.
i think the code it throws is c-33 Should i just do the plus mod ( im also a little nervous about getting into that as well..) first time cold feet if ya know what i mean.
Sometime it will idle rough at a light and shut off. I used to hear a thud like a backfire and id feel it under the tank...
i presume ive said what needs to be done already. Any one in the North FL South GA area interested in some beers and tinkering?
I want to say i can do the tb sync myself but im afraid ill screw it up.
I just recently put new plugs in and she ran Beautifully for 30 miles, then the FI light popped on and she started to bog. Now she feels really sluggish and sounds like its getting too much gas.
i think the code it throws is c-33 Should i just do the plus mod ( im also a little nervous about getting into that as well..) first time cold feet if ya know what i mean.
Sometime it will idle rough at a light and shut off. I used to hear a thud like a backfire and id feel it under the tank...
i presume ive said what needs to be done already. Any one in the North FL South GA area interested in some beers and tinkering?
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
It makes me nervous.... I just havent felt like jumping into it... if i cant wait till yours is up and running ill be meeting with a friend that lives down the road from me he just sold his TL recently
If you want to ride a TL, you can do yourself and the bike a favor by learning how it works. Once you understand the system, the fear goes away.....I want to say i can do the tb sync myself but im afraid ill screw it up.
...
i think the code it throws is c-33 Should i just do the plus mod ( im also a little nervous about getting into that as well..) first time cold feet if ya know what i mean.
.....?
Balancing the TBs is not a difficult job, but it does require some time and patience. Have you seen the instruction video on Youtube? It is very informative and explains much about the process. By all means watch it.
http://youtu.be/AvK-5aQuhNs
Then post up questions you may still have. There is plenty of help on the forum.
The "Plus Mod" is a good thing to do, but the c33 error code has also been known to be caused by a bad ground on the Power Commander. There is a single ground wire from the PC3 to the negative battery terminal. Sometimes that lead does not get reconnected when the battery has been changed or removed. Check it out.
I'm near Pensacola, I'll gladly help u. Never done it but its not hard..
Im going to need to figure something out while i dont need it Daily. I appreciate the heads up if i dont call on you maybe when she is fixed we can get together and ride one day
Hey I'm definitly down for that. I have a well stocked shop to use in Bay Minette, right outside Pensacola. I'm rebuilding my engine right now. I'm hoping to have it all back together in a couple of weeks. Probably be to cold to ride then but I bet well have some nice day. If not I'll be seeingyou my good man in the spring. I gotta find how how my TLS holds up to a tlr. Lol
Make sure the clutch switch works and is connected, and if you have a TRE it's a"smart" TRE. A common cause of plugs fouling or poor performance is if the ECU doesn't know when to change from lean idle map (so plugs don't foul with chamber temps cool & clutch lever squeezed or trans in neutral) to performance map (richer when in gear and clutch engaged).
Remember that the TLR is quite different from the TLS. The R doesn't have any idle mixture air bleed screws, it uses the butterfly stops. Pay special attention to adjusting the throttle position sensor to read out correctly on the odometer with the TLR!!!!
Remember that the TLR is quite different from the TLS. The R doesn't have any idle mixture air bleed screws, it uses the butterfly stops. Pay special attention to adjusting the throttle position sensor to read out correctly on the odometer with the TLR!!!!
Cyclecamper, your clutch switch/injector pulse information does not agree with the information referenced on SteveTLS' website.Make sure the clutch switch works and is connected, and if you have a TRE it's a"smart" TRE. A common cause of plugs fouling or poor performance is if the ECU doesn't know when to change from lean idle map (so plugs don't foul with chamber temps cool & clutch lever squeezed or trans in neutral) to performance map (richer when in gear and clutch engaged).
....!
http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/18/56/
You have it backwards.
The "idle map" is not leaner (clutch lever pulled in; clutch switch closed - connecting the circuit to ground).
When the clutch is pulled in, the ECM increases the duration of the injector pulse, adding fuel.
Likewise, the "neutral map" is not leaner. It is also richer (regardless of clutch position), compared to "in gear and clutch engaged" (clutch lever out).
Here is the Clutch Switch vs Injector Pulse video by TeeRiver on Youtube:
http://youtu.be/4_qnGJihHvM
:cheers
I have a TRE from Speed King . Im going to get with a friend of mine in the near future i think he might be around your way Felipe maybe we could all end up meeting up His Name is KC he lives around north Jax. I live in Kingsland Ga
Jacksonville is a good ride but it's not that bad, about 4 hours from me. Your about 5. I use to live in jax, I wouldn't mind riding to Jacksonville. Riding from jax to Daytona would be awesome. Ride the beach road the whole way. I would like to see how that tre installs and see what kinds difference it makes.
I think it made all the difference you can feel it right away! That and removing the butterfly valves and replacing them with plastic to cover the holes.
I assume you mean you removed the "flappers" and now also removed the vacuum servos that operated them, and plugged the holes where they were mounted.
Did you also saw out the tunnels the flappers were in, like a full Joe-V (as we call it)?
Then get some aftermarket ram tubes!
Did you also saw out the tunnels the flappers were in, like a full Joe-V (as we call it)?
Then get some aftermarket ram tubes!
i dont have plastics on my bike so i cant use the ram air tubes....
Unless there is a mod i am missing and i would love you get some ram air tubes that will work without fairings...
And yes Flappers that is what i meant! I just put plastic over the holes the flappers came out of...
#7 on here..... What is the T fitting? I plugged both of the Vaccuum lines...
Was i supposed to attach one of them to something instead? Could that be a reason for the rough running?
AIRBOX
I have broken down the air box modification into 2 sections, the lid, and the base plate. Below are listed the steps to modify the lid:
1.) Remove the air box lid
2.) Turn the lid upside down
3.) You will see the 2 air intake valves. These will be removed.
4.) Slide the actuator rods out of the flappers (indicated in lid-1 jpeg)
5.) Turn the lid over and locate the intake air control valve actuators (indicated in lid-2 jpeg)
6.) Turn the actuators and remove from the air box lid.
7.) Take one of the vacuum lines that run to the actuators and form a loop to the "t" fitting in the vacuum line.
8.) Now all that is left to do to the lid is to seal the holes left by the vacuum actuators. On the bike that I have done, I use fiberglass disks, washers really, with gasket maker, and place one disk on the inside of the opening and one disk on the outside of the opening and secure with a 1/4" bolt and self-locking nut. It is important to seal these openings.
Unless there is a mod i am missing and i would love you get some ram air tubes that will work without fairings...
And yes Flappers that is what i meant! I just put plastic over the holes the flappers came out of...
#7 on here..... What is the T fitting? I plugged both of the Vaccuum lines...
Was i supposed to attach one of them to something instead? Could that be a reason for the rough running?
AIRBOX
I have broken down the air box modification into 2 sections, the lid, and the base plate. Below are listed the steps to modify the lid:
1.) Remove the air box lid
2.) Turn the lid upside down
3.) You will see the 2 air intake valves. These will be removed.
4.) Slide the actuator rods out of the flappers (indicated in lid-1 jpeg)
5.) Turn the lid over and locate the intake air control valve actuators (indicated in lid-2 jpeg)
6.) Turn the actuators and remove from the air box lid.
7.) Take one of the vacuum lines that run to the actuators and form a loop to the "t" fitting in the vacuum line.
8.) Now all that is left to do to the lid is to seal the holes left by the vacuum actuators. On the bike that I have done, I use fiberglass disks, washers really, with gasket maker, and place one disk on the inside of the opening and one disk on the outside of the opening and secure with a 1/4" bolt and self-locking nut. It is important to seal these openings.
I took her out for a ride yesterday to see if i could get her to show a code and I had a great half hour ride...
i put on multiple layers LoL But it was fun!!
Do you think i did anything wrong when i did the "mod" to my airbox?
Do you think i did anything wrong when i did the "mod" to my airbox?
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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