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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys... still in the process of bringing my recently acquired TL1000S (1997) to perfect functional state.
Got it from a 67years old guy with non-original fairings with an ugly-ass rattlecan finish on... but luckily with a box of original parts.
Leovinci carbon cans, 17 years old tyres (not kidding!), fork recently serviced, MOT, new clutch etc.
The guy used full-synth oil and the clutch was slipping. I replaced it with 10w40 but the clutch still has troubles. On another TL I owned years ago I fixed the problem with reinforced springs (the clutch on this one is new).
I ordered a set of EBCs but no joy (and to be honest, I think I was ripped off as the lever isn't any harder to squeeze than before!).
Just ordered a set of Barnett (from a different seller) and a pack of washers... don't know when they'll be here, probably by the end of the week. Fingers crossed.


I replaced the 17 years old Dunlops with a set of Michelin Power RS but another issue was waiting in the dark to show up. When I got the bike, the fuel was old and it didn't rev. I replaced the fuel and used some additive and it finally started coming back to life BUT it still has a dip in the powerband, between 6000 and 7500rpm it kinda stalls, expecially if I open the throttle completely. Then, over 7500, it's a rocket. It's weird.
If it was a pump issue it should cough and probably bang under torque... but it doesn't. I adjusted the TPS but no joy, again.
I'd simply bring it to a mechanic but down here they're really a bunch of ignorant goats (in the best case) and ****ing thieves (in the worst case)... so as long as the bike runs, I'll try to fix it with some external help.
I could have the pump pressure checked by a friend (car electrician) but what's the right pressure for a functional pump?
Is it possible to understand without removing the fuel pump if there's a problem of faulty pump or clogged filter?
I haven't replaced the spark plugs but honestly doubt it's their fault. Any idea?
 

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Yep, :stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Uhm, what about the dip in the powerband? I have an appointment on friday with the car electrician to check the fuel pump... how much pressure should it have when tested?
 

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Uhm, what about the dip in the powerband? I have an appointment on friday with the car electrician to check the fuel pump... how much pressure should it have when tested?
The fuel pressure regulator opens at 41~42 psi. That's the pressure you should see on the fuel rail with a complete functional system. If you measure the pump by itself it can vary quite a bit, but it should remain above 50 psi. New pumps advertise pressures in the 90 psi region, but I wonder if that is sustainable. :dowhat
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok... in the meantime I'll also replace the spark plugs (no idea how old they are, but the tyres were 17 years old, so...) and on friday we'll see what happens!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Today I replaced the spark plugs and... found out the front cylinder one was pretty loose, I could turn it by hand! The rear cylinder one was tighter but absolutely not as tight as it should have been.
The color was good, though. Hope they caused the problem... maybe at 6000rpm the spark plug got into its resonance frequency and moved more, ruininng the fuel burn.
Can't ride now as it's 4 degrees outside and is late (20:40) but tomorrow I'll take a ride... hope I fixed it. Since I had the fairings off I also removed the airbox "valve".
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The spark plugs were fine, I think the problem is in the tank... a clogged filter or a bad fuel pump.
We tested the fuel pressure: at idle it's 38psi (41psi is what I should have), but if I turn the throttle, the pressure goes down! :O
Can't find a tank gasket locally and dismounting the tank without having a new gasket would be useless as I'm 99% sure I'd end up with a leakage.
So for now I'm trying to find an online store with both filter and gasket in stock and ready to ship. If I don't find one, I'll order just the gasket and will bypass the filter (can always add an external one).
If the pressure is fine after that, I'm good. Otherwise, I'll need a new pump. Fingers crossed!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Already found a pump that should fit perfectly (found the advice here on TLzone!): Airtex E8229. It even looks like the real thing.
But how often a pump fails to deliver the right pressure? Isn't it much more common that it stops working altogether?
Just trying to understand how many chances I have to solve the issue only by replacing filter and gasket LOL.
 

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....
But how often a pump fails to deliver the right pressure? Isn't it much more common that it stops working altogether?
......
Both failure modes occur on a regular basis.
However, given that your pump is old, and the pressure is low, and gaskets are difficult for you to obtain, it would be best to fix it once and be done with it. ;)
 

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I second all of the above! As well as the pump being old and possibly past it, the in-tank filter will no doubt be f**ked. (here was mine! It ran but began to hesitate at about 6000rpm, but occasionally pull through it) replacing it solved the problem I replaced my pump with a Kemso one, which work well. How is the air filter? If its really badly clogged it could cause rich running mid range before the EFI correct it at higher revs? When you removed the airbox valve make sure you blank the vacuum pipe, obviously. If/when you get the clutch welded (well worth it!!) you must use original springs, in case you didn't already know. good luck mate. DSC03287.JPG IMG_2176.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I fixed the clutch slippage adding some washers to the EBC springs... the air filter is a K&N and is clean. The spark plugs had a normal color, the one on the rear cylinder was darker but I guess it's normal.
Finding a store with the gasket in stock is a nightmare.
 

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I meant to add, regarding the gasket; Ive had the pump/filter assembly out at least 6 times and have always re-used the gasket, just cleaning it all up really well and adding a thin coat of Blue Hylomar. Never had a leak issue. Its really important to tighten it up slowly and evenly and NOT TOO TIGHT! as they're only 4mm bolts. I think as long as the gasket surfaceis clean and not warped it should be ok.
glad the washers worked. (if/when it stops working, the weld mod is cheap and fail-safe!)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In fact I was thinking about taking the pump/filter out even without having the gasket here but... I'm not lucky, it's easy to end up with a leakage. I could use some red liquid gasket, as far as I know it lightly expands if in contact with fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
28116995_10215802777411427_193996529_n.jpg This is the tank... I don't know how it could be on the inside but for sure the fuel was old when I got the bike.
 

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Im not sure about red liquid gasket, Blue hylomar stays slightly soft and doesn't react with fuel so is safe and won't break down. Even with a new gasket if you over-tighten the bolts or the surface is warped it might leak. depends how gentle you can be with the spanners! (i always use a ring spanner thats about 10cm long and even then don't force it and like i said ive never had an issue. But Lucky is my middle name!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also, when shopping for a new gasket I see some sets have a metal plate included, some don't. But can't understand if in the second case the metal is "melted" into the rubber or it's simply missing.
 

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Also, when shopping for a new gasket I see some sets have a metal plate included, some don't. But can't understand if in the second case the metal is "melted" into the rubber or it's simply missing.
Me neither! Mine just looks like very hard rubber, but mine is the only one Ive ever seen in real life.
 
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