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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's nothing mechanical, but it is one of the TLR's defining characteristics.. My hump... :banghead :banghead I broke the rear tongue/tab that secures the rear of the hump under the sub frame. It was always a bit worn out (note: Don't wheelie with your hump on, or you may slide back and f*#ck up the tabs that secure it) and now that I have a new paint job, it was pulling down too hard on the rear of the hump, and scraping the paint on the lip where the hump contacts the tail plastic. Does anyone know of a good apoxy or plastic weld that could reattach this?? Of course it doesn't have to be pretty, just STRONG... Here are some pics of the damage. And thanks in advance!



 

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i've heard good things about gorrilla glue but i would reccomend finding someone who does plastic repair because i heard if you use the same plastic to repair it it will be just as strong as if you never broke it at all.:)
 

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JB Weld? :O It seemed to hold up well on the crack in my lower fairing I had.
 

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I think a lot of guys glue it back on then use fiberglass around the area to make it stronger.

good luck
 

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crap ive lost my link, theres some stuff call plastex if I remember right, and it is almost a have to have in the garage for the newer sportbikes and the tabs that break off. Best stuff out there!
 

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theres an epoxy that you can get. cheap. easy to use. comes in different colors. available at automotive store. the one i used was clear and was rated at 13500psi. that was a year ago and its still holdin
 

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If you have a NAPA auto parts store near bye,they should have some stuff called PLASTIC WELD-its a 2 part epoxy type stuff made for plastic.I used this stuff on a 2002 VW Beetle rear bumper( it was broken pretty good) its still holding with no sign of letting go!Its been over a year now.I have a plastic welder and I prefer to use the other stuff=quicker and easier and just as strong.
 

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I fabbed up a 2mm thick steel "L" shaped bracket and riveted it through the hump. Just painted the 3 rivet heads the same colour as the bodywork to disguise them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, we can close the case. I JB Welded the FSCK out of it, and it's holding together quite nicely. I even added a second layer once the initial bond had cured. That thing isn't going anywhere now. Thanks for all the feedback fellas.
 
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