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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I'm trying to find the easiest way to swap my tl1000s to hydraulic clutch, hopefully with straight bolt on parts without too much messing around.

Does the slave cylinder and casing from the tl1000r fit straight on?

What about the master cylinder and lever end? any advice?
 

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Master cylinder & lever bolt straight on. The slave cylinder fits on but you have to trim some of the casing away so you have clearance to bolt the slave on....... you don't lose any structural strength IMO, but keep taking a little off then offering the s/c up to check.

Also, if you are still running the OEM 5-bolt clutch the push-rod will be too short..... the standard push-rod length is 96mm (23111-34C00) and for the life of me I can't remember the length I ended up at


I THINK it was somewhere near the 105mm length but Sam might remember as it was he that told me:D
 

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Rob, in my case it's because of reduced strength in my left wrist/scaphoid area and I could get a far smoother/easier pull or action with a hyd' set-up. It's much easier for me if I get caught up in traffic etc.......... nowhere near as much pain as when I had the cable set-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's perfect thanks!

I've gotta go find some parts by the sound of it then, its my winter project along with some hayabusa 6 pots on the front.

This is a very stiff clutch, even still when its lubed up well.

I know i'd get on so much better with a hydraulic one.

So the only major problem is the push rod length? should be too hard to sort out.

Thanks guys
 

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It is easy to do.............the longest part of the mod' is bleeding the clutch afterwards


When you're setting the push-rod length you only want about .3 or .5 mm play in the "button" on/in the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hah, yeh i bet.

Any ideas where i can buy brand new parts? or am i going to have to go 2nd hand for everything?
 

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Nothing wrong with s/h parts, mine were. Jagboy is up your way (Carl) pm him to see how close you are too each other.

If you can, go for a braided hose instead of the OEM rubber one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll get in touch with him now.

Thanks for your help!

I'm sure ill have plenty more questions for you soon.

Dan
 

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I swapped mine too. A TLR slave bolted directly to my '97 TLS with no trimming at all of the case or slave. I did have to trim the plastic sprocket cover (don't remember if I used stock or the R one, I think the latter).
 

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I used the R cover Josh but "relieved" the casing around the slave-cylinder.
 

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I'm looking at doing this conversion over winter. Got a full set up off ebay for £20. Lever, master cylinder, hose, slave cylinder. Just need a new push rod and to sort the sprocket cover and replace the hose for braided so it matches the brake hose then it's just getting a dryish day to start it. If any of you guys have pics of yours fitted i'd appreciate it thanx.
 

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i had to buy a new slave cylinder as after 10 yrs it was past it's best....was only £36 i think...got to be one of the best mods for an S....specially if your running stiffer springs...
 

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I just put a new seal in mine Carl, like you say not that expensive really :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can i use any other master cylinders and lever of another suzuki bike like a SV or a bandit or hayabusa?
 

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<confused smilie> The hydraulic to cable conversion is a worthwhile mod on the R and the reverse for the S???????

Madness I say MADNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol
 

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you should be able to use almost any suzuki one...probably kwak too....

i think the main reason racers prefere the cable set up is because of the better feel....so i've heard.....don't see heat being an issue.....it uses the same fliud as brakes and they get up to 400degc on track....:)
 

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Big power equals big clutch springs, shorty levers also makes it worse. Doesn't take long for a TLS clutch cable to drag on the inner cable liner with stiff springs.

I run hydraulic on all mine now, the grabby clutch is nothing to do with the actuation, it's the back torque setup in the clutch itself.

The early TLS's needed a little filing of the generator cover to get the slave to fit properly, the later TLS's used the same cover as the TLR so no problems.

These are the clutch pushrods :-

96mm Long - 5 Spring TLS (Cable)( 23111-34C00)
100mm Long - 6 Spring TLS (Cable) (23111-05A01)
108.5mm Long - 6 Spring TLR (Hydraulic) (23111-24A01)

If you fit hydraulic on a 5 spring clutch then ideally you need a 104.5mm pushrod but there is an element of allowance in the slave cylinder.
 

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Yep, I reckoned it was about 105mm Sam but couldn't remember exactly


Using Stu's adjustable gizmo I ended up with a gnats over 108mm, using Barnett springs.
 
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