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Discussion Starter #21
On its way :) put the bike together last night (finished just before midnight :lol) then half five this morning left for Birmingham :) got me here ( with massively improved fuel economy) so will write up when I'm home :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #23
when you say masively...could we get some number please :cheers
I was getting around 95 miles before the fuel light started flashing on my usual commute (mostly motorways). Despite having luggage strapped to the bike and not hanging about on my trip to Birmingham, I've been getting more like 120 miles before the light starts blinking. Not desperately scientific I'll admit, but I have seen a consistent improvement of around 20 miles per tankful which is quite a difference. It's also rather more rapid :lol

I plan to balance the throttle bodies this weekend too (didn't have time to do that before my trip) so I'm looking forward to seeing the difference once it's completely finished :)
 

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that is amazing, if its purely down to valves...its like the shim set will be payed in full in a handfull of fillups

would you mind linking to the shim set you got?....will most likely buy that asap

also, would you mind sharing the values you set the valves at?

i belive ive read somewhere that the best result is when they are in the tight end of the spectre

before this thread, this job was like black magic to me, you helped immensly at revealing the that magic

lastly, is the specs the same on the TLS and TLR?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
that is amazing, if its purely down to valves...its like the shim set will be payed in full in a handfull of fillups

would you mind linking to the shim set you got?....will most likely buy that asap

also, would you mind sharing the values you set the valves at?

i belive ive read somewhere that the best result is when they are in the tight end of the spectre

before this thread, this job was like black magic to me, you helped immensly at revealing the that magic

lastly, is the specs the same on the TLS and TLR?
It makes sense being down to the valves. If the clearances are too tight, the engine potentially loses compression (if the valves don't shut fully) and the duration over which the valves are open are too short, so gases can't get in or out of the cylinder as well as they should. All this will give less efficient running, and thus less power and poorer mileage. Don't forget I also replaced the plugs as well though - the front plug was shagged so I'm sure that's played a part too :)

I didn't buy a shim set; I just bought the individual shims required from my dealer. They are about £5 each more or less. Sometimes dealers will exchange the shims you don't need for the ones you do, but that will be at their discretion!

I set the valves to the maximum clearance I could with the shims available to buy (see the other thread - it's all in there now). The problem with being at the minimum end is that as soon as they tighten, they're out of spec again :) I've seen the Ring-In's thread on 'why cam buckets fail' and I can see the benefit in not having too large a clearance. For me and my bike though, if Suzuki specify the tolerance is between x and y, I'll be happy with anything within that range.

I don't know if the specs are the same on the S as the R, but they PROBABLY are. The specified clearances are the same as for the GSX-R so I'd guess it's a one-size-fits-all spec that Suzuki use for whatever reason :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
That first paragraph above should read "and the duration over which the valves are open are too short if the clearances are too large" by the way :) I don't seem to be able to edit the post...
 

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TLR Junkie had inspired me to do my valves on my own with his two how to threads. To round out the package for future TL'ers who might like to jump into the foray of doing their own valves, I've made up a sheet to easily, without the math, figure out exactly which shim you need to install for each valve. I also had this attached to my rebuild thread, but nobodoy looks at it, since I don't update as much as I should. This thread is much more appropriate for it anyways. I hope you guys like it, and if you have any questions or find anything wrong with it, don't be afraid to bring it up. Thanks to TLR Junkie. I used the format he posted for the spreadsheet. I knew nothing of doing this process until he posted his how to's.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
There's an error on the rounding formulae on that sheet I'm afraid :)

L12 / 13; A measured clearance of .18 and a shim fitted of 285 gives a theoretical shim required of 273. The spreadsheet rounds this to 280 (to give a clearance of .23), but I'd fit a 275 to give a clearance of .28.

I think the easiest way to get the correct shim would be to either use one of the LOOKUP functions from a table of available shims to buy, or to use formulae to get an equivalent function to 'round up to the nearest 0.05'. I'll have a play later when I have a tea break :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
This works for rounding a shim to the nearest 0.05. I'm sure there's a more elegant way of doing it, but if it works it works :)

It works in the following way:

  • The theoretical shim required is calculated using the maths
  • It looks at the last character of the shim number x, where 0<= x <= 9 and x is an integer
  • It looks up this number from a table, and outputs y where y is a number that, when added to the theoretical shim, rounds the shim number up to the nearest 5
  • It then calculates a theoretical clearance fitting this rounded shim
 

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Evening I see is working right. I plugged in your numbers and it came out just fine. If you look at the next block over, TC, you'll see that it shows a 0.23. Reference that number to the chart at the right and you will see that the corresponding shim would be the 2.75 that would give the preferred 0.28 gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ah, yes. I see what you mean now. I was reading the output from the cell in L12/13 and thinking that was what should be fitted, not realising the additional text further down. My mistake :)

The spreadsheet is a nice idea though that would make the task easier and remove some of the easily-made maths errors when doing repetitive tasks. I think it would be a little more intuitive to use if it output exactly what needed to be fitted though, rather than relying on further interpretation of those outputs.

e.g., rather than relying on the user interpreting TC and modifying Sa accordingly (or in other words T=.23 is too small, so reduce 2.8 to 2.75 to give TC=.28) it would be more intuitive if the s/s just output 275 in the first place. That's what I was trying to model with the s/s I uploaded, not realising you'd already spotted it :)

I shall endeavour to do a better job of RTFQ :lol
 

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I'm no excel wizard, and have no idea how to do the formula to automatically output to one cell and incorporate everyting to go higher or lower and whatnot. I did it that way cause I actually had one shim that was out of spec on the loose side, thus requiring a larger shim. Opposite of everything else. Also I set it up that way because the rounding formula does not allow rounding to fives, only to tens. So the only workaround was another chart. If anybody is more guru than me, which can't be hard, please enlighten. I'm always willing to learn more ab out excell
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I'll have a play when I have a bit more free time :thumbup

I use Excel daily as part of my job (I'm an accountant) and used it extensively throughout my degree course (I studied Physics with a bit of engineering before that) so as sad as it is, I'm not too shabby with it :)

That sheet I posted up in post #30 rounds up to the nearest 5 shim size. It was a 'proof of concept' really. I'm sure I could cobble something together similar to yours that bungs out the actual shim needed. I'll have a go when I have a bit more time :)
 

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I started my tappet check and measured the clearence with the feeler gauges. So my smallest feeler gauge .008mm wouldent fit on the intake side on either cyclinder. it was just too tight.... Then i checked my exhaust valves. the .008 would fit with ease then tried the .10 and i would have to push pretty hard to get it in haha. was too tight for .10. Do yall think it could be this much off on each valve?? or do you think i did something wrong. I followed the thread and my manuel by the word, and checked multiple times. What do you guys think?
 

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With Mr Junkies permission I collated his posts of info into a pdf and here it is for all the see. It's basically a copy paste of each post, but I wouldn't be able to check my clearances properly without a hardcopy to read over and over to make sure I am doing it right.
It's 54 pages long but it has checking and adjusting all in the one doc and it also has the how to use feeler gauges part. Let me if there are any issues with it or if the link doesn't work.
 

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Outstanding job on the post. I will definitely be doing my own valves from here on out. Have to pick up a few tools and all will be ready, Thanks again!
 

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Thank youuuuu!! :D
Was looking for a guide on checking & adjusting the valve clearances (better then the manual)

and here I was worried that I might mess something up (bad luck lately)
Other then having to remove so much to get to them, seems pretty easy.

(new to my TLS) & it honestly looks even easier then my first bikes checking & adjusting! (gs500)
Easy to line up the cams properly & no stinking Chain to zip tie up & always in the way!!! :banghead
My old V45 DOHC super magna was even worse!

Definitely going to be starting on doing mine Very soon (14,500ish miles on it now)
Just need to make sure I have enough $$ for new plugs & shims after bills tomorrow.
As I will bet they are either the originals or surely over 7K+ miles on them (plugs)
I dont think the PO did much servicing beyond the oil changes in the 8K miles hes owned it based on Coffee like brake fluid (front & rear)
 

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Discussion Starter #39
You're welcome :) yep, it's a joy to do compared to something with a chain driven cam :) I had an SRAD 600 before the TL and the TL is so much easier.
 

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Never forget local engineering companies can often surface grind shims on magnetic beds to whatever thickness you require. I work for Nova Racing Transmissions:

http://novaracing.co.uk/

I wouldn`t bother doing a shim job without matching the thicknesses required personally. ;)
 
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