they are an insert in to the swingarm and it will be the insert that will be turning
How am I gonna do that then?
Today's nonsense with the bitch bike is the lower of the bolts which holds the rubber chain buffer for the swing arm is rotating in the threads. Wow yet another stripped thread by the previous f#ckwit owner. I'd wondered why the torn and messed up buffer had been left flapping about. Rather foolishly I'd thought that I could just replace it ... But oh no ... I have to perform engineering wizardry to do yet another simple task.
Anyone have any suggestions for this? The bolt turns in the hole. I'm assuming that it's just a threaded hole in the swing arm. I tried wedging a large bladed screwdriver under the bolt flange and on top of the rubber and then putting a spanner on it. Unfortunately, it just turned loosely but would not withdraw.:confused
I may have to cut the head off, slot the stub and screw it into the void if it won't back out.
Anyone have any suggestions for this? The bolt turns in the hole. I'm assuming that it's just a threaded hole in the swing arm. I tried wedging a large bladed screwdriver under the bolt flange and on top of the rubber and then putting a spanner on it. Unfortunately, it just turned loosely but would not withdraw.:confused
I may have to cut the head off, slot the stub and screw it into the void if it won't back out.
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
no its a nutsert
cut the head off with a grinder
centre pop the bolt start a small drill to about 4mm deep.
swap to an 8mm or similar and drill till the insert falls into the swingarm.
its there for good unfortunately
fit a new nutsert.
I usually squirt a little epoxy in after the old insert to glue it to something so it wont rattle around.
cut the head off with a grinder
centre pop the bolt start a small drill to about 4mm deep.
swap to an 8mm or similar and drill till the insert falls into the swingarm.
its there for good unfortunately
fit a new nutsert.
I usually squirt a little epoxy in after the old insert to glue it to something so it wont rattle around.
my post would make a lot more sense if stu hadn't posted first :banghead
Cheers guys ... The old nutsert thingy hey. Damn ... No peace for the wicked:laugh
I had one go on me the other week I pulled the insert/nutsert out then tapped it and fitted a threaded insert with locktight
Pulled it out? How'd you do that? I could cut what's left of the rubber from behind the bolt flange and so have something to get a hold of .... Then just yank on it?...... I pulled the insert/nutsert out then tapped it and fitted a threaded insert with locktight ....
on mine the bolt came out easy enough and I used a shard chisel and destroyed it in position without damaging anything :laugh
I'll have proper go at mine in the morning. I don't think I know the term shard chisel .... But whatever it is I'm gonna show mine some extreme prejudice
m
m
sorry sharp :laugh
tired and typing doesnt work!!!!
atleast we get an extra hour in bed tonight :laugh
tired and typing doesnt work!!!!
atleast we get an extra hour in bed tonight :laugh
its really a rivet with a thread in it.
It will come out making a much bigger hole if you pull on it.
if you drill the outer shoulder off and push it into the arm you can just fit another one
you dont actually need the real tool you can use a long thread and a some washers and a nut to compress the insert.
get a bolt with about 20mm thread on it
wind on a nut to the top of the thread
add a few washers
put a bit of grease or chain lube on them and the thread.
wind on the insert
place the insert in the hole
hold it there and hold the bold head with a spanner and tighten the nut with another spanner
it will get nice and tight and then you can loosen the nut and wind out the bolt
all done
nutserts can be got from a bolt shop.
get a few 6mm and 8mm ones
you'll use them eventually.
It will come out making a much bigger hole if you pull on it.
if you drill the outer shoulder off and push it into the arm you can just fit another one
you dont actually need the real tool you can use a long thread and a some washers and a nut to compress the insert.
get a bolt with about 20mm thread on it
wind on a nut to the top of the thread
add a few washers
put a bit of grease or chain lube on them and the thread.
wind on the insert
place the insert in the hole
hold it there and hold the bold head with a spanner and tighten the nut with another spanner
it will get nice and tight and then you can loosen the nut and wind out the bolt
all done
nutserts can be got from a bolt shop.
get a few 6mm and 8mm ones
you'll use them eventually.
I know these as rivnuts .... Have used them on my Land Rover. I'll take a look at mine again in a short while .... I did look at the upper bolt which had a sleeve on it and assumed that there was either enough meet on the swing arm to thread or had some form of captive nut. Hadn't thought about nutserts. I'll be gentle with it I'm just a wee bit frustrated about the levels of damaged on this old girl caused by wayward wack jobs whose enthusiasm outweighs their basic engineering prowess. Word for the day that .... 'Prowess' :laugh
BTW I like your version of the rivnut tool. Perfect solution.
BTW I like your version of the rivnut tool. Perfect solution.
Grrrrr naaaaagh ..... Yeeeeer fecker
Jeez this piece of sh#t certainly knows how to fight and get me down.
I've struggled through the fork and brake system complete rebuild. Overcome the rivnut issues ... We'll all but one. The Harris cans are yet to have their fate decided.
I thought I was potentially getting there ... Nice simple task next. Oil change can't be hard can it. Undid the drain plug whipped off the filter. Right button her up. Not feckin likely .... Why can't I put the drain plug back in cos there's no poxy thread that's why. At that point the depression hit and I stormed out of the garage. I suspect the previous owner stripped yet another thread and possibly heli coiled it ... How on earth do I do this now. Bikes up on paddock stands but I can't get a drill under it. Is the sump thick enough to take a repair. It must be judging by the length of the drain plug. Pissed off now ....
Jeez this piece of sh#t certainly knows how to fight and get me down.
I've struggled through the fork and brake system complete rebuild. Overcome the rivnut issues ... We'll all but one. The Harris cans are yet to have their fate decided.
I thought I was potentially getting there ... Nice simple task next. Oil change can't be hard can it. Undid the drain plug whipped off the filter. Right button her up. Not feckin likely .... Why can't I put the drain plug back in cos there's no poxy thread that's why. At that point the depression hit and I stormed out of the garage. I suspect the previous owner stripped yet another thread and possibly heli coiled it ... How on earth do I do this now. Bikes up on paddock stands but I can't get a drill under it. Is the sump thick enough to take a repair. It must be judging by the length of the drain plug. Pissed off now ....
Mine has been helicoiled in the past and it came out with the sump plug
you need the smallest size helicoil you can get
if its been helicoiled before a new one will go straight in
you need the smallest size helicoil you can get
if its been helicoiled before a new one will go straight in
Yep, as Stu_m says, It can be fixed..... At that point the depression hit and I stormed out of the garage. ....... How on earth do I do this now. Bikes up on paddock stands but I can't get a drill under it. Is the sump thick enough to take a repair. ........
Take a breather and come back to it later.
My TLR also has a heli-coil in the sump plug. Discouraging, but fixable.
Kits are made for this sort of repair. I don't have the numbers handy. Do a search on "sump repair" or something similar and a ton of threads will come up.
IF you need to recut it, be sure to keep the bit at right angles. You will need to lean the bike over, or hoist it up enough to get the tools under it.
Thanks guys I need the encouragement right now. It's definitely a case of one step forward two back at the moment.
I've been trawling for data on this and think I may have an answer. You can get 15mm repair kits that I think will allow you to tap the 14mm hole out without the need to drill first. If so, I'll go for it. If not, it's the old drill and helicoils again
I've been trawling for data on this and think I may have an answer. You can get 15mm repair kits that I think will allow you to tap the 14mm hole out without the need to drill first. If so, I'll go for it. If not, it's the old drill and helicoils again
go to an auto supply shop and buy a 14mm oversize drain plug and hire the tap to fit it
many larger auto service shops have them
even ebay.
its OS first the helicoil then keensert.
OS is quick and easy.
and always fit a new gasket washer every oil change they are soft first use and then they get hard and strip threads
many larger auto service shops have them
even ebay.
its OS first the helicoil then keensert.
OS is quick and easy.
and always fit a new gasket washer every oil change they are soft first use and then they get hard and strip threads
There have been hundreds of posts about a TLwith a stripped oil drain plug, and it's not just the TL that has this happen, common on cars & outboard motors, etc. etc. Like Stu says...oversize plug is first fix. If that gets stripped, then you have to go on to more drastic measures like helicoil or keensert.
You put thick grease on the drill or tap, work slowly, and remove it often and clean and regrease it as you go, so that you remove all the metal shavings you create! Then rinse the bottom of the crankcase with something like kerosene. Flush with cheap oil. Then finish your oil change with the good stuff.
BTW you can also get drain plug repair kits that look like a big drain plug with a smaller drain plug in the middle of the big plug bolt. Comes with the tap. Once the big one is installed in the aluminum, you only open and close the smaller steel plug in the big steel plug, so it never strips out again.
You put thick grease on the drill or tap, work slowly, and remove it often and clean and regrease it as you go, so that you remove all the metal shavings you create! Then rinse the bottom of the crankcase with something like kerosene. Flush with cheap oil. Then finish your oil change with the good stuff.
BTW you can also get drain plug repair kits that look like a big drain plug with a smaller drain plug in the middle of the big plug bolt. Comes with the tap. Once the big one is installed in the aluminum, you only open and close the smaller steel plug in the big steel plug, so it never strips out again.
Here in the states any really good auto parts shop should carry Dorman stuff, and Dorman has:
5/8
or
15mm
SKU #: JCW-RB65229
Manufacturer #: 65229
http://www.jcwhitney.com/dorman-uni...p3051641.jcwx?skuId=3402706&&mc=1&filterid=u0
$11.95 self-tapping (make sure there is internal clearance).
5/8
or
15mm
SKU #: JCW-RB65229
Manufacturer #: 65229
http://www.jcwhitney.com/dorman-uni...p3051641.jcwx?skuId=3402706&&mc=1&filterid=u0
$11.95 self-tapping (make sure there is internal clearance).
if the bike is a 97 model you wont have the splash plate in the sump so remove the clutch cover and throw loads of petrol in to wash it out :thumbup
without the splash plate you can see the sump plug hole and the bottom of the sump for shavings
take a chill pill its not the end of the world
without the splash plate you can see the sump plug hole and the bottom of the sump for shavings
take a chill pill its not the end of the world
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
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