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Discussion Starter #1
So while putting the swingarm on my Fighter project the swingarm pivot went in fine until about half way in then it got tight, i tried to get it to go alittle more and it locked up now it wont come back out:banghead So far i have broke 2 different 1/2 in. drive rachets on it:banghead
The worst part is i just had this frame powdercoated black:banghead There was nothing in the threads and it started in fine, how it locked up is beyond me!! So now i need a frame or if anyone can think of how to get the swingarm pivot back out and then repair the threads let me know. Hell i would just part it all out, but this project has come to far to stop now!!!

Anyone please help!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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can you use heat to slightly expand then cool the parts? or some liquid wrench, let it soak in and tap the threads (sometimes the vibration from a "wack" will free the parts)..........
 

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I don't think I understand what is stuck, can ya post a pic?

Beyond that, I'd say use the highest quality socket you can find (impact rated snap-on if there's clearance) and an impact gun or a high quality breaker bar or ratchet. You won't be able to break one of the heavy duty snap on 1/2" ratchets even with a 4' pipe on the end of it (not that I would know about that err umm:rolleyes).

good luck
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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If the swingarm pivot is only half way in then there will still be side play on the swingarm, enough to get a hacksaw blade down the right hand side and cut through the spindle on the threaded side and pull most of the spindle out of the left side leaving just 2" of threaded section in situ.

Then you can get to the stuck part better and run the hacksaw through the remaining spindle hole and cut a slot down it's length to release the pressure on the threads :devious
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Hers some carnage





I got thru the spindle to release the swingarm now the remaining bit is fighting me all the way. I have cut thru the last bit but it still wont come out
I need to cut another relief so the piece is in two then it might come out. There is definately going to be some damage to the threaded portion of the frame, but i think someone with good skills around a machine shop could prob. weld up and re tap the threaded stuff?
 

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Hey Sully,
I'm gonna be at the track from very early on Saturday through Sunday doing my track day deal. But I will be around most of the coming week & wouldn't mind taking a look at it & giving you a hand. I have some VERY good penetrating oil I use on stuff that is a PITA that may help.

FWIW I tossed a new clutch in my Toyota truck this past week & given that the Toyota 5 speeed tranny is connected to the bellhousing with just a few millimeters to spare in the firewall I had lots of fun recently with dorking around with this kind of stuff. Loosening up engine mounts & turning & twisting an engine while trying to slide a trans in place while lying under a truck. Fun city. Two clutch pressure plate mounting bolts snapped off on the flywheel when I tried to remove them. And yeah, with those left handed drill bits, some very good penetrating lube (LPS) & some tap, tapping, drilling, more oil, more tap, tapping, more drilling, etc. I managed to get both broken bolts out of there with minimal drama. Don't look for a new frame just yet!
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Looks like your trying what I suggested, it will work, especially if you cut another slot like you said and have started to do in the picture.

I would guess 2/3's of the thread will still be OK and providing you can buy/borrow a correct size tap and tap from the inside of the frame it will clean up enough without having to reweld as the thread is more than long enough to hold tight.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Home depot is crap

home depot has the worst selection of blades so i just burnt thru $50 worth of the wrong blades and still never made it thru the thing! I'm using the carbide bit i bought for the dremel to do the busted header bolt a few days ago. It went right thru the busted easy out!!! So it should go thru the spindle as well. It seemed like the shitty sawzall blades were tore up instantly and then kinda heat treated the spindle in the process:O
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Those carbide bits rock, great for getting out snapped taps aswell when they shear in the cylinder head exhaust bolt holes :dowhat
 

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I think id put myself a really good pipe wrench and a 6 foot cheater bar on it. Might need a second person to hold the frame.
 

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Maybe related maybe not. :dunno When I was removing the swing arm bolt off my ATV 300EX I had a PITA hard time like you are having. I had the rear wheels off the ground and the tail end of the ATV pull up by the grab bar. I decided after fighting this thing for hours that it was just not coming out today..

Solution, frustrated I let the atv down to the floor and let it rest on it's hubs, I notice the swing arm seem to move and I thought :idea hey maybe it will come out now. Sure enough with a breaker bar, a pipe, it came out.

Therefore, in looking at your picture balance the bike as if you are tying it down on a truck, let the rear wheel touch the ground and support it self, maybe that will reduce pressure on the swing arm pivot and allow you to remove it.

Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Del the swingarm is off the bike now and it still wont come loose. I need to find some good ass sawzall blades to get thru this hardened spindle!!
 
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