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Discussion Starter #1
Firstly the sight looks amazing and there seems to be a wealth of knowledge on it and I am hopping to draw on some of said knowledge.
Issue one: the fuel pump failed, lifted the tank found the pump unit had been welded to the tank (yep that’s what I said welded) I am guessing the treads had been stripped out.
Luckily the bike came with a spare tank, thought a little at the time but now I know why.
So got a second hand pump from ebay fitted new filter and the bike ran fine.
Issue two: after about 10 miles the bike lost all power above 4000-5000 RPM I am under the impression this is when the second set of injector’s fire?
I have checked the charging system and all seems fine and the battery is holding a good charge and not dropping much under cranking. I have access to a heavy duty battery slave pack that we use to start tanks with outputs for both 12 and 24V and I still have the same issue when I connect this so I don’t think there is a problem with the charging circuit. I have done the +/- mods however I am now getting error codes 24 and 25 I think this is due to my own stupidity and used cable with a high resistance I will sort this first and then get back to the original fault.
If anyone could shed some light on my troubles I would really appreciate is as the weather is getting better and I really want to be out riding. Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
update, just pulled the +Mod relay and bridged the wires to use the old harness and she runs way better can make it up to around 9000 Rpm before she grumbles. I think messing around with the coils while doing the mod may have partially fixed a bad connection I am now going to pull the coils out completely trim down the ends and swap out the plugs for hopefully the last time, fingers crossed.
 

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Maybe try replacing the HT leads?, just replaced mine and the standard ones were in poor shape, very brittle at the ends and signs of water ingress, cheap and easy to do as well:)
 

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Start with checking the return flow from the regulator on the fuel rail. It could be a leak in your new fuel pump setup. If you replaced any hose inside the tank, it has to be submersible hose, not just external fuel pump hose...the inside AND THE OUTSIDE have to be fuel-proof.

Then there are some standard things to diagnose, but some are best just ripped out. Rip out the intake flappers in the airbox and associated vacuum servos and hoses and electric vacuum valve, and seal up the vacuum ports. If you have a gas tank evaporation recapture charcoal canister, scrap that and remove the purge lines & seal the ports. Scrap out the PAIR and seal the holes in the heads. Cut 1/4" off each end of each spark plug high-voltage lead and re-seal the ends. Pour in a bottle of injector cleaner. Then when it consistently runs OK you can complete the airbox mods. Address the clutch and you're usually in pretty good shape (after wear items like chains & sprockets & tires etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help, didn't change any hoses in the pump unit. To be honest the thing looked brand new. I have now cut a couple of mm of each end of the ht leads and cleaned the terminals. It runs ok just has lots of flat spots. So this weekend I am going to have a go at making a balance gauge and balance the throttle body's. I will let you know how I get on.
Ps; the air box mod and charging mod have already been done previously to me buying the bike, probably fried the R/R when he welded the tank. Once again thanks for the suggestions.
 

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It might just need a good tune with a borrowed Yosh box to get rid of those flat spots.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would love to get it on a yosh box, only problem is I'm in the forces living in Germany and don't know anyone with a yosh box. Devoted Bike garages are fuel and far between as well. That said I do have a birthday coming up:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Right i have now synced the throttle body's with my £4 home made gauge that I'm quite proud of. It still bogs down whenever i put the throttle on a little energetically. I think this is a fuel pressure issue as in its not getting the amount it needs when the ecu is asking for it. Is there a simple test I can do on the fuel regulator to see if it's functioning as it should?
 

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Yes, you can add a fuel pressure guage. Not cheap, but most automotive shops and good bike shops should have one. More common method is to measure the rate fuel flows on the return line, which tests the pump more than the regulator. But this sounds to me more like just simple ECU tuning.

Still don't know exactly what bike you have. TLR and TLS injection systems are completely different, and the '97 TLs has some unique things too. A stock '97 TLS with original ECU will bog if you open the throttle too fast, just due to the original ECU and '97 round intake ports, and requires some skill to tune.

So...exactly what are you riding, and could you please put it in your profile.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Right, finally fixed it and you won't believe what it was. The fuel line from the tank to the rail had collapsed and was restricting the fuel. The pipe had a protective plastic coil round it so i couldn't see the damage.
The bike is a 98 TLR 25000 on the clock and it has been a little neglected by the previous owner.
Not many mods at the moment but I have plenty of time to work on that. Thanks again for all the help. It's nice to know there's a good bunch of lads willing to lend a hand.
 

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Just for kicks... is your clutch switch functioning properly? Do you need pull the clutch in to start the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yer the clutch switch works perfectly, as does the side stand switch. I haven't had any intermittent problems as of yet but I'm sure is won't be long.
 
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