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Discussion Starter #1
I tried to fix the backfiring on my bike and ended up shearing the head off one of the front exhaust manifold bolts (see thread in Help forum). :banghead
It's starting to look like I won't be able to get the bit of the bolt that's left over for lack of tools and space. :O
Do any of you guys know of any good bike shops or mechanics who might be able to help? I called Redwing (the guys who usually service my bikes) but they didn't leave me feeling confidant that they could do the job. :(
Any ideas would be hugely appreciated.
 

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Not sure where you are but Bob Martin Engineering will be able to do this. They are a good bunch of guys, you've probable talked to them at the races.
The website is only a front page but it has all the details :cheers

http://www.bobmartinmotorcycles.com.au/index.htm
 

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I'd have a go at it if the head was off the bike. I'd be to afraid to try it myself with it on the bike (especially someone elses bike.)

If you get desparate, I could try slipping a nut over the exposed stud and welding it on and then try undoing it. I'm reluctant t try drilling and an easy out free hand though.
 

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How far off is the bolt broken off from the head..
You could drill it out and then use an easyout, if you've got the room to get to it??
 

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Steve TLS said:
I'd have a go at it if the head was off the bike. I'd be to afraid to try it myself with it on the bike (especially someone elses bike.)

If you get desparate, I could try slipping a nut over the exposed stud and welding it on and then try undoing it. I'm reluctant t try drilling and an easy out free hand though.
Beat me to it Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #6
mattbl said:
Not sure where you are but Bob Martin Engineering will be able to do this. They are a good bunch of guys, you've probable talked to them at the races.
The website is only a front page but it has all the details :cheers

http://www.bobmartinmotorcycles.com.au/index.htm
Cheers Mat. I've emailed them about something else before so they know of me. Will call and check sometime today.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Steve TLS said:
I'd have a go at it if the head was off the bike. I'd be to afraid to try it myself with it on the bike (especially someone elses bike.)

If you get desparate, I could try slipping a nut over the exposed stud and welding it on and then try undoing it. I'm reluctant t try drilling and an easy out free hand though.
Thanks Steve. The problem I have is that there isn't much room in there as you know. It might be easier to take the radiator off first, which means draining it and all that, to get a drill in there.
It'll be the same problem for welding because there's bugger all room.
Will give BME a call and see what they can do.
Next time I'll read the instructions properly :)
 

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There has been some discussion on this topic on TLZ in the past. A common problem.
Heat, electrolosis etc.... I went through the same problem. The allen key head bolt has now been replaced with a conventional hex head, can now get a better idea of how much tension is being applied... but that itsn't going to help get it out if it's siezed in anyway.
Because it is siezed, it isn't going to be easy to get it out with an easyout either, and if that breaks??
Anyway as it happens... if it is broken off far enough in so that some internal thread is exposed, you will need a pop rivet gun that has the provision for a range of about 4 sizes. The external thread of the die (?) is the same as the stud hole. I used the largest option and when screwed in, it acts as a drill guide.. the studs screw in a fair way; it's not much fun lying on your back and trying to drill 20 odd mm. - straight. Allow for the odd broken drill bit etc. A couple of trips into town ~ 100 kms return ....
And it didn't work... but it's a good story :)
The hole was still slightly off centre, so the easy out was hitting both surfaces.
Another trip into town with the bike in the back of the ute.
Tim Ferguson who is now over at Maffra drilled it out and put in a helicoil... cost me ~ $200 and a lot of time in the end.
But... the pop rivet guide thing is a goer!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Peter Reilly said:
There has been some discussion on this topic on TLZ in the past. A common problem.
Heat, electrolosis etc.... I went through the same problem. The allen key head bolt has now been replaced with a conventional hex head, can now get a better idea of how much tension is being applied... but that itsn't going to help get it out if it's siezed in anyway.
Because it is siezed, it isn't going to be easy to get it out with an easyout either, and if that breaks??
Anyway as it happens... if it is broken off far enough in so that some internal thread is exposed, you will need a pop rivet gun that has the provision for a range of about 4 sizes. The external thread of the die (?) is the same as the stud hole. I used the largest option and when screwed in, it acts as a drill guide.. the studs screw in a fair way; it's not much fun lying on your back and trying to drill 20 odd mm. - straight. Allow for the odd broken drill bit etc. A couple of trips into town ~ 100 kms return ....
And it didn't work... but it's a good story :)
The hole was still slightly off centre, so the easy out was hitting both surfaces.
Another trip into town with the bike in the back of the ute.
Tim Ferguson who is now over at Maffra drilled it out and put in a helicoil... cost me ~ $200 and a lot of time in the end.
But... the pop rivet guide thing is a goer!
That fills me with such a warm, fuzzy and optimistic feeling.... :whatsthat
 

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Hmm thats a sticky situation your in their Haiiro...

I recon your best bet might be is too, lubricate the broken stud with some CRC or Penetrene lubricant for a few days, try to drill a hole big enough for a descent
sized eazy out to fit into the broken thread. Heat the stud CAREFULLY with a
oxy / acetylene flame till just to the point of being red, Insert easy out and see if
can screw it out...

If that fails a re-drill and a helicoil may be the only option. Hope this helps! :)
 

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haiiro99 said:
I tried to fix the backfiring on my bike and ended up shearing the head off one of the front exhaust manifold bolts (see thread in Help forum). :banghead
It's starting to look like I won't be able to get the bit of the bolt that's left over for lack of tools and space. :O
.
It's not going to help you, but I've been wondering if it were possible to change the rear flange gasket - usually the cause of the backfiring without having to remove the front pipe from the port. I. E., remove the cans, undo the flange coupling at the rear, and lever the pipe assembly down far enough to fit the new gasket.

On a GSXR 1100K I had, the 4:1 pipe went directly under the drain bung. The first oil change I had done involved removing the whole exhaust assembly for access.
I later twigged that by inserting a wedge between the sump (near the front)and the
pipe, I could make enough room to get a modified allen key in to undo the bung. Saved a lot of hassles over the years.

If it were possible to change the flange gasket in a similar manner, it should be broadcast to the world... there are sure to be a lot who will be thankful.

REgarding your issue, I don't see that heat application would be of any use. The stud is embedded in a fair way, and any significant heat application could have a severe impact on the alloy.. read melt:coocoo Make sure that the replacement stud is well dosed with a good anti-sieze. Might save some other poor bastard having te same problem in a few years time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn't need to touch the front pipe and could've (with a large deal of difficulty) undone the union at the rear pipe connection.
I did try to pull the rear down with the front on but had no luck.
No matter. It will be fixed somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Actinide said:
Hmm thats a sticky situation your in their Haiiro...

I recon your best bet might be is too, lubricate the broken stud with some CRC or Penetrene lubricant for a few days, try to drill a hole big enough for a descent
sized eazy out to fit into the broken thread. Heat the stud CAREFULLY with a
oxy / acetylene flame till just to the point of being red, Insert easy out and see if
can screw it out...

If that fails a re-drill and a helicoil may be the only option. Hope this helps! :)

Will be doing that this weekend methinks. I might have to resort have to use my girlfriend's GF250...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
All fixed

The bolt was fixed. The guys at Bob Martin Motorcycle Engineering made little work of it and also fitted a couple of temporary bolts till I source some hex heads.
Didn't cost me much as well, pretty much what I was expecting. Could've done it myself if I had the space and tools.
 

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Good thing you had it solved though. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #17
has the backfiring been fixed though:dowhat
you know you want to keep it:devious
I fixed the backfire initally by myself but broke the bolt in the process.
Was completely happy with the backfiring to be honest, it was just that every time I went riding my clothes would stink of exhaust fumes. I'm partial to the odd smell of petrol or exhaust but when it gets as bad as it got, it is a bit annoying..
 

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Nice fix :thumbup
 

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I tried to fix the backfiring on my bike and ended up shearing the head off one of the front exhaust manifold bolts (see thread in Help forum). :banghead
It's starting to look like I won't be able to get the bit of the bolt that's left over for lack of tools and space. :O
Do any of you guys know of any good bike shops or mechanics who might be able to help? I called Redwing (the guys who usually service my bikes) but they didn't leave me feeling confidant that they could do the job. :(
Any ideas would be hugely appreciated.

i know a good motorcycle shop - you'll come out with a rebuilt engine :laugh
 
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