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Discussion Starter #1
HELP - URGENT!! Paging Six5 et al to the "CHEC" - "TLS Won't Crank" Phone...

Desperation is setting in...I have a 2-day Track Event 7/21 & 7/22...and my '00 TLS is throwing "CHEC" and won't crank.
Yes, I've searched...dozens of threads, printed out 15+pages of posts/comments, big chunks of the Service Manual, wiring diagrams, etc. etc.

Let's start with the Back Story (There's always a back story.)

  • '00 TLS, 46K-ish mi. Had a rough life before I got it.
  • About 3 years ago, (original?) FJ0 ECU started cutting out, with increasing frequency. Cycling the Key & Kill Switch would reset it for re-start.
    It actually quit twice on the track - that was enough. So I scored a "new" F40 pre-recall ECU. "Plus Mod" and "Charge Mod" were also done by me (carefully and correctly) at that time.
    It's been TEKA tuned by a reputable tuner here in WA state. 3 years and counting, no problems beyond the sub-3.5K bucking, of course; it pulls well at larger throttle openings.
  • Last June, I took an on-track tumble, front end washed @ 35-40MPH, and bike went down on the left side. Just slid on tarmac for a bit, ended up half in the dirt right at track edge, not violent beyond the initial strike. Busted stock left footpeg & shifter assy. NOTE: Was able to get it into Neutral and started immediately, but put it in gear and it quit. When I got it home and tried starting, "CHEC" showed on display. Hasn't run since. TBH, the act of crashing really rattled me, and the dusty, busted bike just sat for several months while I sorted my self out...
I finally felt the fire burning again, and booked a few trackdays. So I've been working on getting it track-ready, cleaning and replacing busted shit.
Also installed SV1000 coils.
Finally, last Saturday, ready to hit the Loud Button...
Nothing. Dash says "CHEC." Goddamn it.
The Scramble is on, 5 days to go, no fire yet.

Here's what I've checked so far:

** LiFePO4 Battery voltage: 13.25V w/Key OFF. ** Sidestand 'plunger' diode: 0.558V "up", infinity "down."
** Clutch Switch tests OK across Yellow gang connector. ** Sidestand 'loom' diode: 0.530V "Leg 1", 0.525V "Leg 2." Both legs infinity when reversed (OK?).
** Gear Pos. Indicator: test OK. ** Start Relay is "OK" (I need to re-verify this, I have my doubts).
** Org/Blue wire always hot: OK, but voltage drops from 13.25V to 13.17V with Key ON.
** Fuel Pump Relay OK, Fuel Pump spins when jumped between Org/Blue & Ylw/Red @ relay connector (so pump is OK?).
** Ign. Switch continuity pairs (Key ON): Brown - Gray OK, Red/ - Org OK.
** Org/Ylw - Blk/Wht shows "0.102" on dig. meter, no continuity beep - Bad Ground?
** Ylw/Blue wire continuity to ECU - OK
** Org/White wire continuity from Start Button to Coil #1, Coil #2, and ECU Pin #12 conn., - All 3 OK.

Here's some weird and/or bad stuff I've found:

** Org/Wht hot w/ Key ON and Kill Sw ON - NO
** Ylw/Blue wire voltage: Key OFF - 0.0V, Key ON - 0.0V
** Tip Sensor resistance: 61.7k (disconnected), but only 0.07V between TOS connector and ECU Pin #40 connector (Blk/Blue wire) -- should be 2.5V per Manual.
NOTE - Poor continuity on this leg, shows "1.609 on dig. meter, no continuity beep.
** Poor/no continuity between various branches of Blk/Brn wire - TOS, ECT, TPS, IAP, AAP, ECU Pin #35 Conn.)

After witnessing odd stuff on TOS circuit, I focused on the rear half of the bike, i haven't looked into instrument cluster at all.
FWIW, I plugged in my old FJ0 ECU, no difference, "CHEC."

Any ideas on my next move(s)? Any assistance is appreciated.
I might fab up a quick "Blk/Brn" sensor harness, to see what effect improved continuity might make.

I'm trying hard to fend off panic at this point - but it's banging on the door pretty hard...:banghead

Thanks, Ted
 

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Tbh if it were me...
I'd bridge out the side stand, then test it, bridge out the clutch switch, then test it. After that I'd dismantle the TOS and make sure everything inside is as it should be. After then possibly bridge out the kill switch, and continue in that vein.

My method of electrical problem solving has always been by process of elimination, then whatever you are left with must be the fault, regardless of how unlikely it might seem.

Somewhere I have a full colour wiring diagram for a TL1000S race loom. I will dig it out tomorrow and post it, that may help by isolating things that it couldn't be.
 

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Ted,
This is your primary problem that needs to be sorted first. The orange/white wire is the power source for the ECM. As long as that's down, it will cause a no-start condition, and CHEC will be displayed in the cluster.

......

Here's some weird and/or bad stuff I've found:

** Org/Wht hot w/ Key ON and Kill Sw ON - NO

.....
Thanks, Ted
Have you verified the ignition fuse is good?
You mentioned verifying the side stand switch and diode, but did you also verify the side stand relay?

You seem to be competent with a meter, so I don't need to spell out the details. Once you find the cause for no power on the orange/white wire, I may have some other questions, but for now, that is the first item that needs attention.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Okay, morning update:

I have FIRE in two pots!

First, sincere "Thanks" to CrashB and Six5, for your responses - greatly appreciated.
They provided valuable clarity/focus to my ADHD-tinged mind.
I felt like 'I was on the right path'...but just couldn't zero-in. Once I went after the Org/Wht wire issue, I found the smoking gun. But it played out in two acts...

PART 1 - Last night, I determined there was no power across the Ignition circuit in the fuse block. More back story: One of the mounting ears on the fuse block had broken off prior to my ownership, one bolt had been holding it OK until my crash. I'd fabbed a support plate for the block, but hadn't really inspected it much, wire bundles are tight under the headlight.
Removed the headlight for a closer look, and found the wires had been kinda smooshed/chafed by the bracket. Tidied that up, then pulled the 10A Ignition fuse (again...). Fuse clips were tarnished, so I shined them up. Looked at the fuse itself (again...), and checked continuity - Nope.
Grabbed the magnifer headset for a closer look...saw a TINY fracture and discolored spot, not visible to my aging eyes.

Dropped in a new fuse, no "CHEC." Flicked Kill ON & heard the pump priming. Hit the Go button...FIRE!
Pumped the fist a bit, then shut it down. Tried again for good measure...FIRE!
Decided to shoot a quick vid on the third try. "CHEC", no start. It's Late, time to sleep on it.

PART 2 - Early AM, NEED to get this sorted. NOW.
Check 12V power @ FP Relay & ECU connectors, OK. ECU ground pin continuity, all OK.
Jump FP on back side of relay connector, pump is spinning, so circuit/relay/fuse all OK. It's a start-signal issue.
I'd previously bridged the sidestand connector & heard the relay click.
Soooo...TOS? I'd grabbed a 62K resistor at work, so I disconnected TOS, hastily fabbed a resistor jumper, and plugged it in.

Key ON - "CHEC." Momentary panic, then...flicked Kill ON...which cleared the CHEC, and spun the pump. Hit the Go button...crankcrankcrank-CHUNKACHUNKACHUNKACHUNKA!

Very relieved - I think I can breathe again. Might play around with the TOS a bit, slightly concerned about having no shut-off protection on the track.
But happy enough for now.
.
 

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So - can anyone explain how Kill ON cleared the "CHEC" display?
Kill switch has poor contact.

Doesn't "CHEC" indicate an unconditional no-start condition? I'm baffled.
No, it does not. The gauge cluster displays CHEC if it does not receive a valid data message from the ECU for 5 seconds. This in most cases indicates that the ECU does not have power, e.g. if the kill switch has poor or intermittent contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Appreciate the info JoE. You must have been reading my post while I was editing that last bit out!

I was pondering things at morning break, and thought I figured it out. PO parked bike out in the weather, so lots of oxidized fasteners & electrical contacts.
Also, infernal red dirt/dust got EVERYWHERE in the track tumble. I'll have a look inside the Kill switch.

Thanks, Ted.
 
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