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Discussion Starter #1
Hello fellow riders. I am hoping that I can get some info on how to change the cartridges in the forks. I already have changed seals and such. Have the nice racetech compression tool etc.. I bought a bike that was tracked with previous owner whom is a mechanic at local bike performance shop, the bike is hooked up. Anyways, the bike has full suspension, ohlins, racetech, etc.. I the left tube has wore through the chromoly and is eating seals. I did sand the tube with 1200 grit and it seems to be holding quite well. But I am going to get a good used tube and change the cartridge out.

Is it as simple as taking an impact gun to the bottom bolt on the tube, pulling the whole catridge out, and swapping it out. Then impact it back together? I have never seem a cartridge out, son't know about the shim stack etc. Please help me, I'm about to get a fork to swap with.

Your help is greatly appreciated!!!!
 

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Most of the time it will just spin. You need to buy or make a tool to hold the cartridge while get the bolt out of the bottom.
 

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What? Sure the righ tool is nice but they always came out OK for me on my TLS with just my electric impact gun on the bolt in the bottom; haven't tried it on the TLR. Can make a usable tool from a piece of pipe BTW if you end up needing one.

When a fork tube is worn 9 times out of 10 it means somebody didn't bounce the suspension before tightening down the axle pinch bolts on the side where it needs to self-center. And usually when one is worn the other is too.
 

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cyclecamper said:
What? Sure the righ tool is nice but they always came out OK for me on my TLS with just my electric impact gun on the bolt in the bottom; haven't tried it on the TLR. Can make a usable tool from a piece of pipe BTW if you end up needing one.

When a fork tube is worn 9 times out of 10 it means somebody didn't bounce the suspension before tightening down the axle pinch bolts on the side where it needs to self-center. And usually when one is worn the other is too.
:stupid

I actually bought the cartridge holder tool before I ever did a set of forks and now never use it, I like an air impact gun, works great:thumbup

You should be able to unscrew the fork cap, then unscrew the valve stack from the botom of the fork leg and slide the cartridge and spring out. The trouble is, you'll need to remove the spring to blead the cartridge and set the oil level when re-installing so you might as well remove it as you take stuff apart.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. BTW, I always bounce the suspension before tightening down the axel pinch bolts. I think the problem was that I didn't loosen the pinch bolts on the left side. I figured that just bouncing the suspension with the right side axel pinch bolts loose the axel would center okay. So now I torque the axel bolt with the left side tight. Then loosen the left side (both sides loose), bounce the suspension, and tighten both sides. As I recall in the manual there is no talk of bounce the front before tightening.

Another quick question is, how does the compression adjustment work with the cartridge? Does the cartridge have to be in at a certain rotational point, or just put the cartridge down in there and tighten up?

Thanks again for all of the quick responses, I will get a replacement fork tube ASAP now. Guess I will keep the TL for a while now, was thinking about going 05 gsxr1K. Nice to know still people out there that stand by the old twin...
 

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:dunno about the compression, but for the rebound, set the lock nut so 11mm of thread is showing before screwing down the cap so the adjuster screw can push the rod all the way down when the adjuster is fully clockwise.
 

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georgewa said:
Thanks guys. BTW, I always bounce the suspension before tightening down the axel pinch bolts. I think the problem was that I didn't loosen the pinch bolts on the left side. I figured that just bouncing the suspension with the right side axel pinch bolts loose the axel would center okay. So now I torque the axel bolt with the left side tight. Then loosen the left side (both sides loose), bounce the suspension, and tighten both sides. As I recall in the manual there is no talk of bounce the front before tightening.
The manual does mention it and you only leave the nut side loose and you don't use any brake and it says 4-5 times. I say and a lot. Look at page 6-11 in the TLR service manual and 6-10 in the TLS service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I guess I didn't look close enough. I guess I remember seeing it somewhere, it just seemed vague. I always left the bike on the rear stand when i did it, maybe that had some effect. But since I loosened both sides, and bounced it, it seems to be holding.

But back to the cartridge. When reinstalling, do you have to align it so that the compression adjuster is lined up with something, or does it just adjust something that pushes the cartridge from the top or bottom?

Thanks again for all of the help:)
 

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when you take the fork apart back off the rebound and the preload adjuster BEFORE you take the fork apart or be carefull and back the rebound adjuster screw from the bottom not the top when its off or it is very easy to have click adjuster come apart and its a royal pain to put it back together.
 
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