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Discussion Starter #22
Conservatively, the loom might well be 17 years old. The looms weren't exactly top quality when they are new, so they definitely require regular checking over and repairs.
Thanks CrashB

My plan is to get it running again (hopefully reliably!) and then I'll go to town on effecting the various repairs it needs, including the wiring. I've ordered a replacement four pin plug that goes into the starter relay - shows signs of heat/melting.

Interestingly, the manual says to never turn over for more than five seconds - serious risk to the relay.

Thanks

BSR67
 

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Thanks for the tips on the wires. What do they feed?

Finding a lot of loom gremlins. Sense I have a lot of repairs and upgraded to do!
Those two connectors affect most of the bike.

Two really worthwhile upgrades are upgrading the voltage regulator and the + mod that puts full battery voltage to the coils. The latter will improve starting and added a wee bit of HP per dyno testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Those two connectors affect most of the bike.

Two really worthwhile upgrades are upgrading the voltage regulator and the + mod that puts full battery voltage to the coils. The latter will improve starting and added a wee bit of HP per dyno testing.
OK, so concerned now.

Have fitted:

Second ECM/ECU which arrived today
Brand new genuine Suzuki Fuel Relay
Used Suzuki Starter Relay

Same problem:

1. Turn ignition on, LED illuminates, Relay clicks.
2. Two to three seconds later the fuel relay clicks again and the LED flashes and FI reads in the LCD

When in dealer mode:

1. Shows _C41
2. LED goes out

With the help of my son, we have traced wires. There is continuity on the red/yellow from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump connector
There is continuity across the four wires of the fuel pump connector.

We applied 12v to the red/yellow and black/white of the pump and the pump whirred. So the pump motor works, when direct feed is applied.

So, it's almost as if when connected together the signal is not reaching the pump and telling it to fire/prime. Assume it does this every time on power up?

We connected the brand new (unfitted) pump to the yellow/red and black/white and this too does not spin. When the new pump is connected directly to a battery, it spins.

So - basically, from what we can thus far work out, the pump is not getting the instruction to prime.

Sensible suggestions please. I do have a new fuel pump to fit, but I know the existing one spins up, so changing it in highly unlikely to gain anything.

Not sure what the other two wires (in the four way fuel pump) connector do - imagine they are fuel level light/gauge?

So - please - ideas/suggestions on what to check next. Starting think there's a broken wire.


Thanks

BSR67
 

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Discussion Starter #25
OK, officially very EMBARRASSED!

My son and I fixed it! Thanks to a post on the forum - it turned out (after buying an ECM, Starter Relay, Fuel Pump Relay AND Fuel Pump), that the problem was ..................... the 10 Amp Fuel Pump FUSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Of which there was a spare in the bike!

The downside was, when we fired it up at 1am, I had a VERY Angry wife burst into the garage! The viper cans are a little loud!

It is popping and banging a lot on the right hand exhaust - its not been run for a year and was throwing flames. Fuel is old and I pray its only that. I'll put fresh fuel in tomorrow and see how we go.

Oh well, at least I've got a good spares inventory now!

Thanks

BSR67
 

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OK, officially very EMBARRASSED!

My son and I fixed it! Thanks to a post on the forum - it turned out (after buying an ECM, Starter Relay, Fuel Pump Relay AND Fuel Pump), that the problem was ..................... the 10 Amp Fuel Pump FUSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ....
.....

Oh well, at least I've got a good spares inventory now!

Thanks

BSR67
Congrats on a successful backyard troubleshooting expedition! :laugh That's the thrill of buying old bikes. They will put your skills to the test. Don't be too embarrassed. You are not the first to overlook the obvious. Been there myself. :coocoo


By now, I nearly have enough parts to build a third TL..... :lol:lol
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Congrats on a successful backyard troubleshooting expedition! :laugh That's the thrill of buying old bikes. They will put your skills to the test. Don't be too embarrassed. You are not the first to overlook the obvious. Been there myself. :coocoo


By now, I nearly have enough parts to build a third TL..... :lol:lol
Thans Six5!

Just got to investigate the serious popping/banging/flamethrowing from the right hand exhaust!

Will update!

Love buying older bikes and trouble shooting!

BSR67
 

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Ah right, i thought that law had relaxed some. I have put at least 3 bikes through a test with race cans on without a problem. My TLR has yoshi RS3's on and sailed through.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
OK, so not fully out of the woods yet.

Put fresh fuel in - all the popping and banging stopped.

Put road legal cans on.

Left the garage and pottered around local roads - all well.

Then suddenly, at tick over or just above, the bike died and the dreaded FI signal and flashing LED came up. Would crank but not start. So, I turned it off and turned it on again and it started and ran.

This pattern repeated about 4 times - I was running on the original ECU and figured perhaps it was damaged so changed to the new one. Thought I'd cracked it as I left it running on the stand for about twenty minutes if not more and from tick over (which is too low - circa 800-900 rpm which I cannot seem to adjust) it stalled without any intervention and the LED flashed and FI came up on the LCD. Turned it off and turned it on - FI error, turned it off and turned it on - no error and started and ran.

Just been out to the garage again and it has started on the button three times without an issue.

Low fuel pressure or error due to low tick over? The adjuster knob doesn't have any effect.

And for good measure, there's a dirty great oil leak from the clutch inspection cover gasket! I've ordered the new O ring!

Any thoughts/suggestions welcome.

Thanks

BSR67
 

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The idle adjuster not working is probably die to someone turning the cable far enough that it came off at the throttle body. You'll have to do some disassembly to find it, but that was usually the cause.

If you left it running on the stand for 20 minutes the bike was HOT. Really hot. I'd ride it and see if you fixed it. Of course, I'd ride it close to home until I was sure. :laugh
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The idle adjuster not working is probably die to someone turning the cable far enough that it came off at the throttle body. You'll have to do some disassembly to find it, but that was usually the cause.

If you left it running on the stand for 20 minutes the bike was HOT. Really hot. I'd ride it and see if you fixed it. Of course, I'd ride it close to home until I was sure. :laugh
Thanks - I'll get under the tank soon and investigate.

Was thinking the same thing - ride it/get a few miles on it close to home (pushing distance and carrying spares!) and see what gives. It has been standing for 13 months without use. Maybe (hopefully) it will iron out.

And yes it was hot - 107 degrees when the fans kicked in.

BSR67
 

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I had a similar problem turned out to be fuel pump wiring altered by a cowboy. Soldered and made good, repaied.
 

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I mention that the bike was so hot only because there had been others who had the TL shut off on them when it got hot. It happened enough that there was a discussion about whether there was a shutoff programmed into the software. Anyhow, it will be interesting to see what happens when you ride it a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I mention that the bike was so hot only because there had been others who had the TL shut off on them when it got hot. It happened enough that there was a discussion about whether there was a shutoff programmed into the software. Anyhow, it will be interesting to see what happens when you ride it a bit.
I'll update after a run. Probably won't be until next weekend as I have to get the bike through roadworthiness test (MOT test herein the UK). It's booked in for next Friday.

I will have spares with me! And tools!

I'll be fixing the 'Exxon Valdez' oil leak from the clutch inspection cover on Sunday though (at least I hope the new o-ring fixes it!).

Think this bike has had a slighty hard life ... !

Thanks

BSR67
 

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Discussion Starter #37
HELP please Guys!

So, I have been working away on the TLR. It has been starting and running Ok, broadly, except tick over far too low, and it would at tick over occasionally die and the FI LED would light up and it would read FI in the LCD.

Turning the bike off, and turning the bike on again at the ignition cured it.

So, I am madly preparing it for its UK roadworthiness test this morning and I started it twice - all good.

The next thing I know, I turned the ignition on, it read 'CHEC' and then started when I hit the button.

I then stopped it and it will NOT restart. It cranks, but nothing - doesn't even try to fire. When turning the ignition, the fuel pump primes, but nothing. If i leave the ignition on and flick the kill switch, it primes again when switched to run.

Dealer mode cays -C00

I have checked spark - nice blue spark, but the plug is DRY.

So, 99% certain it is not receiving fuel! I know that the pump was removed last summer by a motorcycle shop that got it running after problems.

I have replaced the ECM, the fuel pump relay is a brand new genuine Suzuki item, and I've changed the starter relay for genuine Suzuki too.

Could it be the pump? Low pressure? I have a replacement but everyone says avoid opening the tank - I don't see I have a lot of choice.

Are there in line filters that might by clogged?

My only other observation is that the plugs are sooty - but the bike has been started and stopped a lot. Fouled?

Recommendations please!

The only other thing to say is that I replaced all the fairings and it don't run after that. Whether I've knocked something? Broken wire?

Thanks
 

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When you turn the bike off to remove the key it cancels the error code. You need to be able to put it into dealer mode without turning the power off to find what code it throws.

CHEC usually displays if you have the bike in gear and side stand down, or if the killswitch is in OFF mode. There are other causes too, but those are the most common in my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks CrashB

I changed the rear spark plug with a used one (from my old R1). Started up. It cut out - FI LED/FI LCD. Turned it off, turned it on and it started again. Tried two or three times more and it ran each time.

It's sitting in the back of my van because I have an MOT booked at 3pm (was 12:30). I'm pretty anxious to get it on the road so that I can really test it fully. There's only so much you can do in a cul-de-sac!

I'm 99% that there's something intermittent going on. It also is trying to kick the starter momentarily when it wants to!

There are lots of cuts and repairs into the loom. I do know that it used to have a keyless alarm system on it. Do wonder whether this has buggered the loom.

Bloody rear brake light switch has failed - was working last night. Grrrrrrr. Hoping tester will be lenient - front switch works. I'll let you know how it all goes.

BSR67
 

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There are lots of cuts and repairs into the loom. I do know that it used to have a keyless alarm system on it. Do wonder whether this has buggered the loom.
For sure it has. You are NOT the first person to have an alarm cause issues....

But like Crash says, codes are deleted every time you cycle the ignition, so keep the dealer plug bridged at ALL TIMES. Report back if you ever see anything other than c00.
 
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