Regulator/rectifier units is usually the problem in such cases. Jump start it to get it running and measure the voltage across the battery. Should read about 14.5V
HELP battery keeps dying and wont start
I just bought my first TLR the guy I bought it from had it sitting for over a year BC his battery's kept dying on him he said he would get it to run with a fresh battery and new spark plugs any idea on what you think the problem is? It turns on, primes, and clicks just can't get it to turn over.it is a 1999 tl1000r
Thank you so much for the help in advance
Thank you so much for the help in advance
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Best case snowy...Regulator/rectifier units is usually the problem in such cases. Jump start it to get it running and measure the voltage across the battery. Should read about 14.5V
Measure at idle and at 5k rpm...
Anything over 13.5 is acceptable... for now...
I'd bet everything I have, he doesn't have 14.5 volts at idle (or ever)...
I suspect I actually meant 13.5V anyway butt mi tiepeeng iznt az gud az it yoostabe.
I wish I spoke Dutch. :lolI suspect I actually meant 13.5V anyway butt mi tiepeeng iznt az gud az it yoostabe.
Either way, I agree fully...
Stuck it on a trickle charger all night and still getting no love
So after charging what's happening? Does it turn over or still just click?
Do it go if you jump it from a car battery?
Trying to decide if the battery if phuqt or if the starter relay is misbehaving.
Do it go if you jump it from a car battery?
Trying to decide if the battery if phuqt or if the starter relay is misbehaving.
Its trying to turn over getting like a rumble ish sound kinda hard to explain kdum kdum kdum sound for lack of a better word I dont know if its BC I'm not getting a spark or what
Got any way to put up a video of this? Sounds somewhat unusual.
Struggling to put this video up
I think I got it
So, your video shows it cranks OK, but it does not fire.
You haven't mention this, but are you getting any FI codes during your cranking efforts? If so, you will need to read them before turning the key off.
Another tell-tale test you can do is put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and watch how low the voltage goes while you are cranking the engine over. Anything below 10 volts could explain why the fire is not igniting.
Well, 9 to 10 is a grey area. Below 9 volts is definitely not good. :thumbdown
You haven't mention this, but are you getting any FI codes during your cranking efforts? If so, you will need to read them before turning the key off.
Another tell-tale test you can do is put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and watch how low the voltage goes while you are cranking the engine over. Anything below 10 volts could explain why the fire is not igniting.
Well, 9 to 10 is a grey area. Below 9 volts is definitely not good. :thumbdown
Getting it to turn over fine just no start
Dealer mode is the next step.
..... put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and watch how low the voltage goes while you are cranking the engine over. .....
.....
Getting it to turn over fine just no start
And no voltage measurements to report?
Getting the volt meter tomorrow and what is the dealer mode exactly is that the little machine you hook up that gives you the different codes that are going wrong?
.... what is the dealer mode exactly .....?
The link below to SteveTLS' site shows you how to access the 'dealer mode.' It is very easy. It will display the code in sequential order (if there are any) in the LCD coolant temperature window.
You can also download the service manual from Steve's site, if you haven't done that already.
Sounds 'dry' and I didn't hear fuel pump run so...................fuelling issue perhaps?
Good luck whatever.
Good luck whatever.
The link below to SteveTLS' site shows you how to access the 'dealer mode.' It is very easy. It will display the code in sequential order (if there are any) in the LCD coolant temperature window.
I'm missing the link for the dealer code
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