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1997 Tl1000s
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67 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi yall!

A few months back i had the same problem just to came and find cranck position sensor's plug had to be cleaned and the problem went away. But this weekend when i wanted to go for a nice afternoon ride the same problem appeared 馃?
Again i cleaned the CPS but problem stayed? Just want to mention that tps is 100%, new petrol filter and pump and fuel lines, tank cleaned, new airfilter,new RR unit, new plugs tiller ran fine a week before?
I suspect that because i keep my tiller clean that there may a wiring issue cause of the water. Whats your guys opinion?
Thanks
 

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If you have the early spark plug boots, they can let water pass by and mess with the spark.
 

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6,905 Posts
make sure the drain holes for each cylinder are free of debris and allow water to escape from the spark plug well.
 

Registered
1997 Tl1000s
Joined
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Tuckshop Ted and twin2 thanks for your input, i really appreciate it alot to truthfull. The last couple ive been busy with the TL...... i took the whole wiring loom out and opened it up and let me tell u.......there were alot of moisture inside and it was a stinky situation. I made a few upgrades regarding the poor charging and its doing 13.9v on idle and 2k up rpm it shows 14.4v to me is awesome. It sound good now, but it still stumbles now and then but not like before. Where is drain holes on each cylinder located?
 

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Here you go - on other side for rear cylinder........

 

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HI
V enjin#1000

When I first rode my 98 TLSw, I struck all sorts of operational problems, in fact so many it was hard to pin point which issue pertained to which source.

It cut out around corners, engine just stopped - loose tip over sensor.
Needless to say, added to this the engine performed like a bucking bronco, with a violent on/off throttle response, this was just plain scary at speed in traffic around wet corners.
Idle would cut out - in part badly set up throttle bodies.
Idle would slowly die and then cut out all together - alternator, rectifier, solinoid, plugs replaced - again things improved.
Battery was also replaced with Kantana sports, this made a huge difference in insuring there was enough to power to operate the system and provided on-going reliability.
Lights would cut out - where it was found that wiring had rubbed through losing its insulation, this throughout the whole wiring system, and upon investigation most gang connectors were ill fitting, and or had largly burnout.
(all repairs made, joints and sensor connectors sorted and treated with DiElectric grease).

But the biggest thing that stabilized the abrupt on/off throttle response was a TRE........ this picked up from a Suzuki dealer at the cost of +/-$100. It's plug and play and instanly provided never seen before smooth predictable acceleration and de-acceleration. NO loss in power.
Engine predictability at last..... what an unbelievable change in character.
Needless to say that it took along time to sort out that bikes operational issues, considering both design issue and deterioration.
Not all of the above ills were encountered in that exact order enumerated above, but as I progressively worked my way though them, mainly pertaining to the electrical system, the machines operation systematically improved, to the point where its fit as a daily ride, and a pleaure at that, without wondering if I was going to make it home or not.

My advice is for a +/-$100, to get a TRE, plug it in, and see if it makes the difference as it could be profound in the TLs operation...
For more information on TRE's operation check out Steves TL1000 web page and talk to your local Suzuki work shop......they may lend you one to try out !
Perhaps friends in this forum can talk further on this topic.....
Having stabilized the electrical system, with engine running as expected, I then moved on to the suspension and its setup, which again provided an even better ride.

Good luck.
 

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Check vaccuum hose to IAP at the back of the airfilter housing. It was one of the problems i had when i got my bike back..
 
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