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Discussion Starter #1
Welcome. I am a new member and I am sorry to welcome you with the problem. I apologize for my English, I am using the Google translator. I do not even know if I'm writing in the right place.
I have TLS '97. After the winter he began to work very strangely. After starting the engine, the motorcycle works well and after a while it weakens and goes out. I can not set the engine idle speed. It shoots terribly at the throttles. I will tell you what I did because I do not know if it can have an impact.
I made the valves setting,
oil and filter replacement,
I improved the damper synchronization,
new air filter,
I set TPS,
I set the air screws for book values,
I also improved the throttle stop to a value of 0.25mm
I changed the clutch and suction cable,
and I made AIR BOX MOD.
When I made a motorcycle to ride, it turned out that it was not working better. In addition, he lost power. I would add that he had a hard start on a cold engine, but when he started he worked well.
Looking for the reason I checked the correctness of the timing - it was good.
I replaced the spark plugs and high voltage wires.
I checked the wiring harness and the sensors and ignition coils. I have not found anything that could improve the work of the motorcycle.
I suspect that it may be a puncture, because when I checked the spark on the spark plug and moved it too far away from the engine, holding the handlebar kicked me slightly current. I've run out of ideas. I like this motorcycle, but lately it has ruined a lot of nerves. I am asking for help, maybe we will come together for something that I missed. Or maybe someone of you once met with such a problem.
I'm joining a movie that shows what it looks like.
Thank you for your help and best regards, Rafał.
 

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Howdy and Welcome.

Do what six says, and let us know what you find. :thumbup
 

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check the green plug is connected to the air temp sensor in the airbox NOT the grey one. they are interchangeable
 

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I'd also recommend changing the inline fuel filter. If this thing has been sat over the winter you might find things have got a bit gummed up. New filter, fresh fuel (the good stuff eg Shell Nitro), a dose of injector cleaner and see how you get on.

You don't say where you are based but most places now put bio-ethanol into petrol. That stuff is the spawn of satan and has no place in any self-respecting internal combustion engine. If left to stand for any length of time it absorbs water and you can get a separation layer forming. It creates an unpleasant varnish which coats injectors, gums up your fuel pump, corrodes your fuel tank. That stuff causes more problems than the one it is intended to address.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Welcome. I am glad that you responded to my post so quickly. Thank you all.
Six, I checked the post # 24.
The problem is that I'm not sure if I understood the statement reconchris. When I took off the IAP plugin, the turnover jumped, but still did not work well.
I checked the IAP sensors (I have two), I'm also not sure if I did it right.
The output voltage was ~ 3.5V and decreased when I was applying negative pressure. At -100 kPa the voltage was ~ 1V. The sensors behaved the same. Should the voltage not increase with the given vacuum?
This is the situation with the disconnected IAP plug. https://youtu.be/6YRIENCrWq0
And so when the IAP is connected, but I took off the vacuum line and blinded it.
https://youtu.be/UFImnkbFwjI
The speed itself jumps, I do not move the throttle.
I checked the temperature sensor plug, it's green :)
I also checked the fuel filter, it was clean ...
Thank you, for all the advice. I know that it is difficult to fix something remotely, but together we may be able to remove this failure. ;)
Regards, Rafał.
 

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.....
I checked the IAP sensors (I have two), I'm also not sure if I did it right.
The output voltage was ~ 3.5V and decreased when I was applying negative pressure. At -100 kPa the voltage was ~ 1V. The sensors behaved the same. Should the voltage not increase with the given vacuum?
......Rafał.
Rafal, I thought the IAP sensor was worth looking at, but it does not appear to be the problem in your case. The voltage results you are seeing agree with the voltage output chart on page 4-38 in the service manual. The sensor output voltage will decrease as the negative pressure (vacuum) becomes greater.

Have you verified the fuel pressure yet?
 

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What about the diode next to you knee (six) this caused all kinds of issues for me. It made my speed jump and sometimes not start.. I thought it was the brain. It's the 3 pin diode next to the right knee in the wire loom
 

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What about the diode next to you knee (six) this caused all kinds of issues for me. It made my speed jump and sometimes not start.. I thought it was the brain. It's the 3 pin diode next to the right knee in the wire loom
Good point Tigg. :thumbup It is certainly worth checking since eRJot's other efforts are not panning out. That diode did cause a lot of confusion for me, and I still don't understand why it acted the way it did, because I was too lazy to think it through. :coocoo

For the benefit of our readers, Tigg1366 is referring to the Side Stand Relay Diode. It is Item "A" in CrashB's color TLS wiring diagrams. In a TLS, it is wrapped into the wire loom behind the frame rail, as Tigg says, about where the rider's right knee would be.

Tigg, what device did you replace it with? Did you order it online? And how much did it cost? I remember we talked about other dual Schottky diodes that would work, but I don't recall which one you actually used. :O
 

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Also I found that it's a (n) style diode. 3 pole. That's what a tech guy explained here. Any way it now fail on one side and ohms out on 2 sides. The center(return) is flowing well and I think it read .45 and the other was a open loop now because it is faulty. I will check the link and get back to you. I looked up the part which is the (ssr 7114 diode and did not find anything. A buddy said he could make one.. this is from an earlier message we had. I did buy some and it turned everything around. I have been riding everyday now with no issues. Thank
 

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DIODE ARRAY SCHOTTKY 100V TO247HTSUS: 8541.10.0080 ECCN: EAR99LEAD: LEAD FREE ROHS: ROHS COMPCOUNTRY/ORIGIN: MALAYSIAPACKAGE .
Cost was 12.75
It took 4 eastern u.s days
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Welcome.
I did not check the pressure on the fuel pump, but I decided to buy a new one because it already has 100k km behind me ... I will receive the pump tomorrow.
It's nice that you came up with a new idea with a diode, because if the pump did not help, I was ready to replace the main wiring harness.
And now the question to you, better to replace the wiring harness (it so happens that I have used a newer model of a motorcycle) or just try to solder the diode itself? I will not burn the diodes when soldering?
Thank you for your help, you are wonderful. :) We will see how the situation develops.
For sure I will ask for the diode, is it about the element from the photo?
Regards, Rafał.
IMG_20190731_202654.jpg
 

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And now the question to you, better to replace the wiring harness (it so happens that I have used a newer model of a motorcycle) or just try to solder the diode itself? I will not burn the diodes when soldering?
.....
Yes Rafal, that is the side stand relay diode shown in your photo.

If I may be so bold, please follow my suggestions below to determine if a problem exists with the fuel pump or the diode.

Even if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, you can still measure the fuel FLOW from the return fuel hose. Follow the procedure in the manual on page 4-51.
This will possibly give you a clue if there is a problem with the fuel pump. There should be 30ml of fuel flowing from the return hose during the 3 second prime cycle.
Let us know what you find please.

Next, don't replace the diode before you test it!
Remove the diode from the connector and use your multi-meter in the "diode test" mode to test both ends of the three-pin device. Each side is a separate diode. The outer pins are the ANODES. The center pin is the common CATHODE for both devices. If you don't know how to use the "diode test" feature on your meter, Google a video of it. There are many out there.
Let us know what numbers you get.

Do not replace the wiring harness.......yet.
 

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I found it very easy to test my self. Flip it over and put it back in. Do not ride the bike like this just start it. If it runs the this is the issue. If there is no change the ohm it out just to be sure because both legs might have been fired.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I checked the diodes today (I had two).
The values ​​he obtained:
1. The diode which was on the motorcycle:
1.965 MΩ; 0.6 V
1.8 MΩ; 0.59 V
2. The diode which was in the free wiring harness from the newer model
1.735 MΩ; 0.59V
1.735 MΩ; 0.59V
I did not know what scope to set the mutimeter when measuring the resistance. The diodes passed the voltage directionally.
I noticed that the diode connector had rusty contacts.
I look forward to the fuel pump, but today I did not receive it ...
What do you think about the diode, are they ok?
Regards, Rafał.
 

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It is only 1.... (3 pole ) diode located near your right knee when you set on the bike. It has tape on it and it look like it is part of the wire harness it looks like a fuse with 3 points.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes. I know there is one. I wrote that I also have a second diode from another motorcycle. I measured both, for comparison.
 

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I checked the diodes today (I had two).
The values ​​he obtained:
1. The diode which was on the motorcycle:
1.965 MΩ; 0.6 V
1.8 MΩ; 0.59 V
2. The diode which was in the free wiring harness from the newer model
1.735 MΩ; 0.59V
1.735 MΩ; 0.59V

.....
The diodes passed the voltage directionally.
.....
What do you think about the diode, are they ok?
Regards, Rafał.
The numbers you obtained from both diodes are acceptable.

Have you done the fuel flow test yet?
 
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