TLZone Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Today was MOT day for my trike and I didn't get there!

Everything seemed normal as I started to pull off but when the clutch was fully released it would stall, no problem riding along slipping it though. I tried adjusting it and all it did was move the bit point but the symptom remained.

Now I can't get out of first gear, even engine off and clutch in

I'm guessing gearbox issues but hoping you guys can help shed some light

Thanks

James
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
You changed the clutch pushrod, if I remember correctly. Are you sure you purchased the proper sized rod? If this wasn't done, then disregard anything I have typed here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hiya, yes I have the rod that was in the S engine, I removed that earlier to measure it (first thing that I thought of after your earlier comments). I'm trying to get my head around how it could cause this problem though and I'm struggling

I can't understand why I wouldn't be able to find neutral with the engine off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Just measure it - 100mm exactly so I guess it is 23111-05A01 which makes sense

I guess I should have 23111-24A01 which is 108.5mm. I'm happy to buy one but it seems the clutch is engaging and releasing so not sure it's worth pursuing?
 

·
Registered
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,306 Posts
......
I can't understand why I wouldn't be able to find neutral with the engine off
You might have a look at the gear selector ratchet mechanism. Sometimes the ratchet spring breaks and causes odd shifting problems. It can be accessed at the cover behind the shift lever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Not sure what that is but I'll have a read and try investigating in the morning, thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Perfect thank you, I understand the linkage now

So I found out why it kept stalling. It was cough some complicated problem you wouldn't understand. Definitely not the fact that it's 1 down 5 up not 1 up 5 down and I was stalling in second. Probably also bouncing between 2nd and 3rd so not finding neutral. Not sure how I managed that but I'll put it down to sheer excitement at being on the road.

The issue of not getting out of gear seems to be the clutch adjustment which was being quite odd yesterday. I've just set it up as factory with the 5-10 degree angle and barely have enough adjustment at the lever to take up the slack. Possibly a stretched cable so I'll get a new one ordered but I'll try it shortly and see if it goes as is
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Well, it moves now. The clutch is right on the limit, new cable is on order. That said, it just drove sweetly for several miles, lots to learn but it's nearly there - thank you again guys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I do have a 108mm on order now but don't quite see how that could be the issue - my problem is that there's too much cable slack and isn't that fixed regardless of how much the actuator pushes on the rod?
 

·
Registered
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,306 Posts
.....
The issue of not getting out of gear seems to be the clutch adjustment which was being quite odd yesterday. I've just set it up as factory with the 5-10 degree angle and barely have enough adjustment at the lever to take up the slack. Possibly a stretched cable so I'll get a new one ordered but I'll try it shortly and see if it goes as is
I do have a 108mm on order now but don't quite see how that could be the issue - my problem is that there's too much cable slack and isn't that fixed regardless of how much the actuator pushes on the rod?
True enough, the cable slack may be part of the problem.

Still, while I may not be completely on target here, this is what I am thinking.
The worm-drive actuator on the TLS (cable set up) needs to have the actuator lever adjusted to the spec in the manual for optimal movement (in and out) as the cable pulls on it. Once the lever position is properly located, the screw on the actuator plunger is adjusted to contact the push rod early on in the arc of the lever (with a little free-play, of course).
So then, as soon as the lever begins to rotate, the plunger applies pressure to the push rod. In turn, pressure is applied to the clutch pressure plate to disengage the clutch.
Since the distance between the actuator and the pressure plate is fixed, the push rod needs to be the proper length (or at least in the proper range) to fully disengage the clutch pack.

With that being said, if your clutch is not fully disengaging, and the following statements are true,
1) the actuator (worm-drive) lever if moving through its full arc.
2) the plunger adjuster screw is all the way in to its limit.
then the push rod may be too short.

If I recall, didn't you install this cable clutch on a TLR engine now installed in your TLS trike?
I don't remember the different push rod lengths between the three or four configurations, but they do vary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
OK I'll try the cable alone and then the rod to prove your theory

Although the actuator/pressure plate distance is fixed, with the adjustment in the actuator it effectively varies though doesn't it? My thought was that there is more than 8mm of adjustment in the actuator which takes up the difference between my S rod (100mm exactly) and the R one (108mm)

Yes this is the S cable on an R engine (and rod too), I think that bit works OK but will find out soon enough when the new bits are in

Thanks for jumping in as always, it's great having people to spitball ideas with
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
MOT passed with flying colours. Two hiccups:

1. Everything died completley on the way home. I took the seats off and prodded the starter relay then it healed. It was a new relay but I've ordered another so hopefully just that
2. It didn't like standing, started to overheat and the fans didn't kick in. Possibly a thermo switch, will look into it

Great to be riding it though!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
More to the cluth rod than meets the eye! My new 108mm rod arrived today but it is too long?!

Here it is being 8mm longer:

514A9095.JPG

This is the problem, there is too much clearance between the body of the worm gear and the casting of the bike:
514A9096.JPG

If I tighten it up then the clutch is depressed even with the adjuster wound out

I can easily make/buy a longer tube and use washers but this feels wrong

514A9098.JPG
 

·
Registered
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,306 Posts
MOT passed with flying colours. Two hiccups:

1. Everything died completley on the way home. I took the seats off and prodded the starter relay then it healed. It was a new relay but I've ordered another so hopefully just that
.....
Congrats on the MOT!

Concerning the starter relay, the relay itself may not be the problem, but rather the loom connector is a common failure point also. It suffers from corrosion and overheating. If the connector housing has deformed ln anyway sometimes the connections become intermittent. Truth is, that single red wire on the starter relay connector is the primary connection for the entire electrical system, and that terminal is really too small and not up to the task. Therefore, it often fails.
That's why the headlight relay mod is recommended. It removes a significant load from that circuit.



More to the cluth rod than meets the eye! ....

This is the problem, there is too much clearance between the body of the worm gear and the casting of the bike:

If I tighten it up then the clutch is depressed even with the adjuster wound out
...
Good find on the clutch actuator.
Perhaps there are some parts missing from the actual clutch assembly on the other side. Maybe a disk has been removed? Is the thrust washer in place between the throw-out bearing and the pressure plate?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks, a very happy day today!

I thought it was an unusual set up, perhaps worth fitting some 8 gauge wire? Presumably headlight relay just bypasses the starter relay for the high power the lights need

I haven't taken the clutch off yet but I will probably put a Barnett in it soon so will check that side then and keep my long rod on the shelf for now!
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top