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Excellent. Thank you all. I will be making my own gap tray. But I really like the brake res, and it's affordable, and I don't know how to make one of those.
 

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Not that the gap mod tray isn't affordable, I'm just pretty sure I can make one, or something just as functional. :)
 

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Scooter hottie chauffeur
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good deal, I'm all about having you guys make your bike the best it can be, if you can do it yourself, more power to you. If you have questions, just ask.

I mounted the rear res up behind the plastics and used a Teflon tube to connect it, when the brake fluid is new, it's almost clear and sort of disappears.





so it hides pretty good, but I even have one of the Vandriver rear res billet aluminum hotness jobbers now.
 

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Rifle's kit is top notch:thumbup
 

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Scooter hottie chauffeur
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80Wood

this took me all winter to do, but I did my own undertail, moved the tail light, license plate, turn signals integration... full fender-ectomy. if you already have an undertail with tail lights and license holder... the gap kit install is only about an hour or less, remove everthing, install the plate and ECU tray, bolt everthing to the plate, put all the plastics back on. The kit is easy, it's all the prep and decissions about what you want to do around the gap that take the time and effort.



 

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I now have one post. Rifleman, please check your PM's.

Thank you.
What a way to post in a old ass thread as your first post :laugh Most people make his/her 1st post by opening an intro thread, not by bringing a thread back from the dead :laugh

welcome aboard btw :bigfinger
 

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Scooter hottie chauffeur
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PM replied to.

just be careful with using plastic, 1. the Reg/rec puts out some heat, and 2. oh Goodness the TLR is a leg roasting, heat throwin', ass melting machine.

if they are moving, should be ok, but the plastic may get pretty soft if you get stuck in traffic.
 

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I had my tail section done like this for over 10 years now with no issues, it is the original tail plastic that I cut down to make the gap tray, the lower section I cut off I used to plastic weld the hole, I am still using the OEM RR and the same location. I have take this bike to Indianapolis, Arizona, California and Texas with temperature in the triple digit with no issues with the plastic melting. Here are some pics of the Gap Tray.

I can still carry tons of stuff in it still.

Rain Suite, Tool Kit, Tire Repair Kit, Disc Lock, Tire Pump, Umbrella, Connection for Heated Vest, FI Switch Tool, Battery Charge Cable / Jumper Cable, Visor Cleaner, Rear Shock Adjustment Tool, Chain Lube, Chain Break Kit and Tank Prop Rod.








 

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Scooter hottie chauffeur
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Man, that's an entire survival kit.

don't under estimate the heat coming off the rear spigot, 100 miles and dinner is served.



 

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I know this bike give off major heat but I have never try to cook or keep my food hot. I think I will do what you have done the next time I travel to the US, I will have to come up another location for my tools. I am thinking of pulling the Gap Tray and wrapping it in insulating padding or Lizard skin spray insulator to deflect the heat. I have my exhaust wrap with heat tape wrap but now I am getting the exhaust ceramic coated to keep the heat inside the exhaust.
 

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Made this a while ago...




 

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yeah, I make them for the R, out of aluminum.



mounts to the bottom of the upper sub frame rails. It allows you to remove all the trunk plastic and replace with aftermarket undertail. your trunk space is bigger but because you are sitting right on the fairing plastics you can't put much in there other then a loaf of bread, bag of chips or light jacket/rain gear.



alot of work to get to this point but this is the full fender-ectomy, rear brake res relocated, and gapped with the kit shown above.

Yes I know it’s been 10 years, lol, it’s a long shot but Riflemans message box is full and wanting to see if you had any laying around. Doesn’t hurt to ask right...lol
 
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