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ok my 1997 tl1000s has got an issue with the fuel pump priming

i left the bike in the garage over crimbo (1 week) went to start her today and the fuel pump wont kick in
u can hear the click from the relay but the pump wont prime. ive checked connections and kill switch
but cant seem to figure out the problem

anyone have an idea? or have a solution for it?
 

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Wiggle the little pig tail -ve wire from the battery to the loom. Toledo's did this, took lots of head scratching to find it, but there was a bad connection or a break in the wire SPARKY fixed it... And it worked. :thumbup
 

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Wiggle the little pig tail -ve wire from the battery to the loom. Toledo's did this, took lots of head scratching to find it, but there was a bad connection or a break in the wire SPARKY fixed it... And it worked. :thumbup

It did :dowhat
 

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Mine did the same and it was a corroded wire to the block connector in the right hand fairing. Had to trace the wire back a few inches to get to decent wire to solder in a new piece.
 

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Check for these voltages at the fuel pump relay connector and you'll know which way to go from there.

These are the signals or voltages that should be present at the fuel pump relay connector.

  • The Orange/Blue wire should be hot (@ 12 volts) all the time - even when the key is OFF.
  • The Orange/White wire should be hot after the key is turned ON (and the kill switch is ON).
  • When the key is turned ON, the ECM will then also drive the Yellow/Blue wire low (near zero volts). This drives the relay coil and activates the FP relay - thus connecting the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire for about three seconds. This is what powers the fuel pump.
  • You should hear the fuel pump running for those 3 seconds.
  • It should reprime the pump (for 3 seconds) after evey time the start button is cycled - if the engine does not start.
  • If the engine starts, then the pump will remain ON.
If this sequence is not happening, below are some things to consider.
Corroded terminals in the FP relay connector?
Corroded terminals at the Fuel Pump itself?
Not getting sufficient current due to a bad connector on the starter relay, or a gang connector in the loom?
A Bad FP relay?
ECM not pulling the Y/B wire low?
Open Yellow/Red wire?
Bad fuel pump?
Open fuel pump fuse?

Use a voltmeter (or an ohmmeter where appropriate) to confirm the circuit components above.

The action of the fuel pump can be easily tested by disconnecting the FP relay connector and using a wire to short from the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire. The FP should start pumping.
 

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I have a fuel pump problem as well. The relay clicks, but the pump does not prime. I checked all the fuses. I wiggled and checked all the wires for corrosion.... still no difference.

I followed six5 post above. I put a wire between the orange/blue wire and yellow/red wire at the pump relay, there was a little spark, but the pump did not prime. Does this mean my problem is the fuel pump itself?
 

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..... I put a wire between the orange/blue wire and yellow/red wire at the pump relay, there was a little spark, but the pump did not prime. Does this mean my problem is the fuel pump itself?
It may be a faulty pump. Is it the original OEM unit?

There are a couple other tests you can do before pulling the pump out.

Verify the ground connection at the fuel pump connector (Black/White wire).

I'm guessing that the spark you saw was due to current flowing through the pump's motor windings, and not due to an internal short. Otherwise, the fuel pump fuse would blow.

So then, connect a volt meter to the Orange/Blue wire (relative to chassis ground) while you jumper it to the Yell/Red wire. The voltage should stay high at 12-ish volts.

If the voltage at that point stays high, it is very likely the pump has failed.

If the voltage goes low, then there is a resistance further 'up stream' that is not allowing sufficient current to flow to the pump. Further investigation will be required at the Large White Gang Connector and the fuse box and even back to the starter relay connector. Consult page 8-14 in the manual for the wiring diagram.
 

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Thanks for the help.

My pump is original, 2001, 22k miles.
I went out and bought a voltmeter today.

I connected the volt meter positive to the orange/blue wire, and connected the voltmeter negative to the yellow/red wire. The voltage stayed at 12.53v

I put a separate wire between the orange/blue wire and the yellow/red wire, and got no noise from the pump. I then put the voltmeter to both as above (with a separate wire connecting the orange/blue to the yellow/red), and the voltage was very low at about .40v

The white/black ground wire at the pump seems ok.
 

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Check for these voltages at the fuel pump relay connector and you'll know which way to go from there.

These are the signals or voltages that should be present at the fuel pump relay connector.

  • The Orange/Blue wire should be hot (@ 12 volts) all the time - even when the key is OFF.
  • The Orange/White wire should be hot after the key is turned ON (and the kill switch is ON).
  • When the key is turned ON, the ECM will then also drive the Yellow/Blue wire low (near zero volts). This drives the relay coil and activates the FP relay - thus connecting the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire for about three seconds. This is what powers the fuel pump.
  • You should hear the fuel pump running for those 3 seconds.
  • It should reprime the pump (for 3 seconds) after evey time the start button is cycled - if the engine does not start.
  • If the engine starts, then the pump will remain ON.
If this sequence is not happening, below are some things to consider.
Corroded terminals in the FP relay connector?
Corroded terminals at the Fuel Pump itself?
Not getting sufficient current due to a bad connector on the starter relay, or a gang connector in the loom?
A Bad FP relay?
ECM not pulling the Y/B wire low?
Open Yellow/Red wire?
Bad fuel pump?
Open fuel pump fuse?

Use a voltmeter (or an ohmmeter where appropriate) to confirm the circuit components above.

The action of the fuel pump can be easily tested by disconnecting the FP relay connector and using a wire to short from the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire. The FP should start pumping.
I am having same problems with fuel pump not priming when I switch on the ignition. Fuel pump will power up when I jump the two wires at the relay but when ignition is switched on to start the engine nothing happens.
This is a 97 tl1000s it has two relays the same, when I swop the relays about it shows that on the right connector that the relay switches but the left doesn't so basically both relays r switching when tested.

The yellow/blue wire voltage does not drop when I switch on ignition what causes this and is this my fault.

Bare in mind now when I was cleaning the wiring connection in the loom the main white connecting block at the front of the engine had been looking dirty so sprayed it with wd40 and cleaned connections a bit then placed the connector back in and the pump fired up but it hasn't done it since with the ignition on and I have checked/tested the connections all seem fine with power getting through.
 

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Power to the fuel pump comes from the starter relay . If a connection there is dodge the pump will not prime . I have a non standard relay
so i'm guessing there is a block connection on the original unit .
I attempted to "clean up " some wiring on my Chinese relay buy fitting a block connector so I could remove the relay easier .
When clicking the connector together one of the 4 spades missed its opposite position and slid under the plastic .
Result was no fuel pump prime ,but a click on the ecu .
This was on a R but I expect it much the same idea on the s except for position of the parts .
 

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I am having same problems with fuel pump not priming when I switch on the ignition. .....

The yellow/blue wire voltage does not drop when I switch on ignition what causes this and is this my fault.

.....
The Yel/Blu wire appears to be the problem.

The ECM controls the Yel/Blu wire. It automatically drives it low for three seconds whenever the key is turned ON (and the kill switch must be in the RUN position). If that is not happening, verify the continuity of the Yel/Blu wire between the fuel relay and the ECM, and then verify that the pin on the ECM is also not switching. The fuel control output transistor has been known to fail on some ECMs.

On the other hand, the fact that you saw some intermittent operation occur when you were cleaning the connectors suggests that the ECM may be OK. Maybe is it just a wiring problem.
 

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i replaced the ECM this afternoon and had no difference, tested the y/blue wire yesterday for breaks it was fine.
Must be a loom fault somewhere
 

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I re-read your first post.....

I am having same problems with fuel pump not priming when I switch on the ignition. Fuel pump will power up when I jump the two wires at the relay but when ignition is switched on to start the engine nothing happens.
Which two wires are you jumping specifically to make the pump run?


This is a 97 tl1000s it has two relays the same, when I swop the relays about it shows that on the right connector that the relay switches but the left doesn't so basically both relays r switching when tested.
This sentence does not make sense. First you say the left relay doesn't switch, then you say both relays are switching. :confused

(edit) After reading it AGAIN, it appears you are saying both relays work in the right-hand loom connector. Please confirm. FYI - these two relays are the side stand switch relay and the fuel pump relay. The wire colors in the loom will tell you which is which.

The yellow/blue wire voltage does not drop when I switch on ignition what causes this and is this my fault.
Since you have swapped the ECM and tested the continuity of the Yel/Blu wire, then two possibilities come to mind.
1) The interlock system is not allowing the ECM to power up.
2) There is an error code present that is preventing the fuel pump relay from activating.



Bare in mind now when I was cleaning the wiring connection in the loom the main white connecting block at the front of the engine had been looking dirty so sprayed it with wd40 and cleaned connections a bit then placed the connector back in and the pump fired up but it hasn't done it since with the ignition on and I have checked/tested the connections all seem fine with power getting through.
You'll need to recheck those connections, since the intermittent behavior suggests a problem with the Org/Wht wire or the Org/Blu wire.





Please check these points again and let us know the status of each wire. Be specific.

Check for these voltages at the fuel pump relay connector and you'll know which way to go from there.

These are the signals or voltages that should be present at the fuel pump relay connector.

  • The Orange/Blue wire should be hot (@ 12 volts) all the time - even when the key is OFF.
  • The Orange/White wire should be hot after the key is turned ON (and the kill switch is ON).
  • When the key is turned ON, the ECM will then also drive the Yellow/Blue wire low (near zero volts). This drives the relay coil and activates the FP relay - thus connecting the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire for about three seconds. This is what powers the fuel pump.
  • You should hear the fuel pump running for those 3 seconds.
  • It should reprime the pump (for 3 seconds) after every time the start button is cycled - if the engine does not start.

.....
 

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When I short the orange/blue to the yellow/red the fuel pump will run

I swopped the side stand relay and the fuel pump relay to test and both relay are switching when when connected to the side stand plug

ECM has been swopped to test and makes no difference, continuity of the yellow/blue is fine

Orange/blue is 12volts
Orange/White is 12volts with ignition on
Yellow/blue does not drop voltage when ignition switched on

The loom has two sections. The main loom and the sub loom at the front for the ignition switches etc. Could this problem be the sub loom at the front? I have done continuity tests on all wire that I can see to be linked to the fuel systems including the sub loom wiring leading to the small fuse box at the front and everything has tested fine so far.
 

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if the tip over sensor is locked on then it wont prime either.
unplug it.
it will throw an error code but ignore it.
 
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Thanks for the detailed response. :thumbup

.....

The loom has two sections. The main loom and the sub loom at the front for the ignition switches etc. Could this problem be the sub loom at the front? I have done continuity tests on all wire that I can see to be linked to the fuel systems including the sub loom wiring leading to the small fuse box at the front and everything has tested fine so far.
The front loom could be involved. It depends upon what is found to be inhibiting the fuel command action of the ECM.


Also, you haven't noted whether there are any error codes present. Is there an FI indicator in the temp window?

Regardless, Stu has directed you to the next logical step by checking the TOS. :)



i replaced the ECM this afternoon and had no difference, ....
Curious, is this second ECM a know good unit? From a running TL?

Or was it acquired from ebay?
 

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Problem is I have no history of this bike, I bought it an an insurance auction it was accident damage but damage was only cosmetic. She wasnt starting when I got her due to the injector housings needing cleaned out and then was on the button until about a week ago when the fuel pump started giving me bother. It's gonna be my winter project rebuilding her into a street fighter for the summer but don't really want to do too much til I have the teething problems sorted.
 
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